I made this contraption to be able to measure leds at a precise angle. The bottom section is a rotation stage that I bought on aliexpress, the rest is custom made. The middle section (the black painted aluminium thing) is made such that the led is almost exactly on the rotation axis. But it is all made with hand tools while it should be done with an end mill, so the centering is not sub-mm precise. Still it should be good enough for what I want with it.
This thing is planned to be fixed onto a rail of some kind.
I’m not sure what I want it exactly for, tint measurements I guess, it was mainly fun to make it. But it could be used for rather cumbersome led output measurements too, as a hand-operated goniophotometer.
The Sofirn C01 in the picture is for size reference.
Astrolux MF01 mod
Leds: 18x Samsung LH351D 5000K 90 CRI
Driver: Haikelite MT09R TA FET
MCPCB: Modded from 6S3P to 2S9P led wiring
Springs: Stock but 20 AWG wire bypasses in carrier and 18 AWG bypass on driver
Output: 20130 lumens
Intensity: 61200 cd
In the spirit of “Because it was there” I put 4 White Flats in an E07 along with 3 stock XP-L HI emitters. Reduced the hot spot, increased the hot. lol
We are under warning for severe supercell storms with possible softball sized hail and even tornado’s, supposed to be a huge amount of wind, lightning, and some localized flooding possible. So to get prepared, I am running 8 lights with Anduril in Lightning mode, from a few hundred lumens to 21,300.
TK-05, 2 E07’s, Ham’r, EOD20, SP03, and GT Mini as well as my Meteor. These are on the shelves in front of and above me, quite a show!
I would say to look at the 7135 for that dim glow, the MOSFET is turned off at low levels so any power coming through has to be due to the 7135 leaking. (gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)
Y’all replaced one FET for a different huge one (’800 for an ’808)? Betcha leakage current when “off” is gonna be proportionately higher, too.
Ever stick a non-dimmable CFL bulb in a socket controlled by a dimmer, even if you don’t intend to dim it but just slam it on/off? Even when “off”, it’ll flicker at random, like having your own lightning-mode built in.
That teeny-tiny leakage current slowly builds up charge in a capacitor in the CFL, enough to just let it “discharge” with a quick dim pulse.
Can probably be fixed with a resistor across the LEDs that’d suck down maybe 1mA or so. So… 3V, 1mA, about 3kΩ oughtta do it.
That way even 0.1mA leakage current would tend to go through the resistor first, and not even let the voltage rise to Vγ to light the LEDs.
None of those drivers have 7135. Just the fet changed and for the lower channel I even removed the small fet and still glowed. So I think Lightbringer has the answer.
Sometimes I launch off into projects that, in retrospect, I might should have not done. This last one is a fairly good example but not a total waste of time as it turned out.
Some background… my EDC light that I made from Scratch used to have the tight Khatod quad optics, I had bought several while at it as they came from England I think. The light morphed into a standard quad with LH351D emitters and the Khatod’s sit here unused. Stage 2 of the background, Will34 here on the forum was selling off some lights… I bought an X6 and Convoy M1 from him. Both of these were already modified, the X6 into a triple and the M1 a quad with a Khatod optic. Neither was really performing all that well so I rebuilt both of them. The M1 was somewhat oddly done with a T-Pad Quad MCPCB and what appear to be XP-G3 emitters that have damaged domes from the ultra tight Khatod optics. A copper plug and a top section of SS filled the head. No idea why SS, but it was in there…
I hadn’t worked on the lathe in a while, so it was a good project to refresh my amateurish skills. I had a piece of copper, WAY bigger than needed, so I carved it down. lol
I tend to like the challenge of making a heat sink that follows the internal lines of the head, and in this case, fully supports the optic all the way up to the glass.
Like most optics, the Khatod has an injection mold protrusion which made me hand carve some space from the top to get the optic to seat fully…
But what emitter? I thought about using sliced LH351D in 80 CRI trim, but the entry to the TIR’s in these Khatod’s is quite small, so I chose to use 4 White Flat’s and built a new driver for em using a lesser MOSFET and A6 firmware.
Hot spot is defined, the little quad makes 2510 lumens at 31.5Kcd, pulling 18.5A at the tail from a fresh charged 30Q.
Seems like a waste of White Flats in a way, but it makes for a unique little light and overall I think I am happy with it.
Apart from the inefficiency of the White Flat compared to the bigger die leds (2500 lumen can be made with i.e. a 3V XHP50.2 with under 10A), it looks like a nice performing flashlight with a pretty nice beam.
Colors should be very vivid (intensive).
The tint should become pink at higher currents (above 2A). This should be very noticeable when you compare it to another flashlight.
Where did you buy the Nichia?
(gut feeling, don’t know this for 100% sure)
