Does the lantern have some type of colored lights when voltage gets lower such as 4.2v green, 3.8v orange, 3.6v red or something like that?
Not that i’m aware of, but woudl be a good feature. The firmware was developed by Toykeeper , and driver design by Lexel.
I imagine the firmware will be a version of Anduril, which does have a voltage check feature. Three clicks from off, and you get the voltage blinked out. 4.1V is four blinks, pause, one blink.
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
The features are really amazing. This will be my first quality led lantern and between the tint mixing and the way you designed the “beam” I don’t think that I will go back to my gas powered ones.
I think this is the first really “quality” production LED lantern, period. It will be a first for most of us.
before Christmas, like on all BLF developments.
It depends on the quality and function of the production sampel. After that it depends on production capacities. No one can say when they are ready for sale.
Would you recommend protected cells? I was thinking of using protected NCR18650GA’s.
Protected or non-protected cells will work fine. (the driver will have low voltage warning built in.) just make sure the four cells are the same type, same capacity & matching. The solder mod can be used to make flat tops work too.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Wait, why 4 samples? I know Toykeeper and you will have them, but who else?
Also, what LEDs are being used?
Barry is keeping a couple for them to test themselves. 2700K & 5000K, high CRI, right now as far as i know they used the easiest to get in High CRI, SST20 2700K 95 CRI, and Nichia 219C 5000K High CRI.
Edit: Barry just informed me they used Samsung LH351D emitters for the test prototypes.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
They probably have learned from the SP36, they made 2 prototypes and one was sent to me and the other to ToyKeeper, and then they had none left themselves. They could not even make pics in time for the website
They probably have learned from the SP36, they made 2 prototypes and one was sent to me and the other to ToyKeeper, and then they had none left themselves. They could not even make pics in time for the website
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
This is super exciting. Seeing the video and pictures yesterday was nice, but I still wondered how long before others would get their hands on them to check out. I’m very glad TK will be getting one to finalize the firmware.
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
The features are really amazing. This will be my first quality led lantern and between the tint mixing and the way you designed the “beam” I don’t think that I will go back to my gas powered ones.
I am also a gas lantern collector & builder! meaning i have done many comparisons & developed this LT1 LED lantern to stand & run with the gas lanterns. ( here is a few of my restored vintage gas lanterns.
The logo is fine but the font looks akward : the “1” leg is larger than the rest and also the “B” bellies, you won’t see that on professional fonts or better designed free fonts.
May I suggest to reuse the same as the BLF Q8 which looks more polished.
Not a dealbreaker if it’s not changed though.
I like the path this lantern is taking, the only thing that worries me is the white diffuser material. Having owned 10+ led lanterns I know this is something that is really difficult to get done right.
Not only the type of material is important, but the thickness, outer and inner finish, transparency, tint/CRI retention, abrasion resistance, it all comes to play.
One of the best diffusers I have seen is from my core 100lm 3xaa lantern, also available at Walmart as their own brand: even light distribution, high transmittance, and almost no tint change with or without the diffuser. Even though it is just 100 lumens it feels like all of the light produced shines through the diffuser. If you look at it while off, it doesn’t look white but grey-ish.
My nitecore LR10 produces a greenish tint and it doesn’t appear to be like being produced from the emitters, the same yellowing effect that silicone diffusers have. Some cheap lanterns have the material made so thick it practically blocks half the output, while the diffuser itself it blindingly bright. (Light doesn’t shine through).
This is the sort of thing that are difficult to be determined though pictures, but IMO ideally the perfect diffuser should be clear, high transparency, with decent abrasion resistance polycarbonate material, with the correct frosting on one side. Not just some semi translucid white plastic.
I agree that the diffuser material should be high transmittance and no tint/CCT change. A thick white plastic diffuser most likely fails in both regards. Is there a way to check this property of the lantern?
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I agree that the diffuser material should be high transmittance and no tint/CCT change. A thick white plastic diffuser most likely fails in both regards. Is there a way to check this property of the lantern?
That will be a part of my tests when i receive the test unit. I have tested many different levels of frosting & types of shades with both the build prototypes i designed, and found that a lighter (roughly 20 ~ 30%) frosting worked the best for not changing the tint or blocking actual LED lumens. While the less frosting will allow you to partially see the LED emitters more, it lets the best balance of lumens through along with still smoothing out the hard-lighting & glare adequately. (the V2 of the prototype i built shows roughly the translucence of the shade, ( in the OP)
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Can you put me down for a second lantern please? (Already on for one at #1260).
I don’t need a lantern, i don’t use lanterns, and the lanterns my friends have are glarey little buggers that give me a headache whenever i try to use them to actually see anything. I also don’t do multi-cell li-ion lights, and am trying not to purchase any more 18650 lights (FW3A excepted) in favour of the 21700 lights that are hopefully on the horizon. I also try not to wax too lyrically about anything.
But i followed this thread for a while out of curiosity, and the detail and care that went into trying to get the beam profile right really hit home with me and i knew at that point i would be buying one, not just to own but to support the project and show respect for the work that has gone into this project. And the process has been a joy to follow with all the decisions having a satisfying ‘correctness’ about them. The fact that Lexel and TK are handling the electronics is just icing on the cake.
To have this level of competency in any product is a rare thing and is something i want to recognise, so thank you DBSAR, and all involved.
And now i feel i should buy two, couldn’t tell you why, certainly not for any practical reason, but i know somehow it’s justified.
I imagine the firmware will be a version of Anduril, which does have a voltage check feature. Three clicks from off, and you get the voltage blinked out. 4.1V is four blinks, pause, one blink.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
I think this is the first really “quality” production LED lantern, period. It will be a first for most of us.
Superb. Any idea on when this will be available?
Travel Forum, Social Network Friends Abroad
before Christmas, like on all BLF developments.
It depends on the quality and function of the production sampel. After that it depends on production capacities. No one can say when they are ready for sale.
Protected or non-protected cells will work fine. (the driver will have low voltage warning built in.) just make sure the four cells are the same type, same capacity & matching. The solder mod can be used to make flat tops work too.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Yep, o-rings are planned on both the top & bottom of the globe lens to seal water out.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
In for one lantern please.
The test samples are ready to ship to us for testing & evaluations.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Wait, why 4 samples? I know Toykeeper and you will have them, but who else?
Also, what LEDs are being used?
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Barry is keeping a couple for them to test themselves. 2700K & 5000K, high CRI, right now as far as i know they used the easiest to get in
High CRI, SST20 2700K 95 CRI, and Nichia 219C 5000K High CRI.Edit: Barry just informed me they used Samsung LH351D emitters for the test prototypes.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
They probably have learned from the SP36, they made 2 prototypes and one was sent to me and the other to ToyKeeper, and then they had none left themselves. They could not even make pics in time for the website
link to djozz tests
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Please put me on the interest list for 2.
This is a great project!
This is super exciting. Seeing the video and pictures yesterday was nice, but I still wondered how long before others would get their hands on them to check out. I’m very glad TK will be getting one to finalize the firmware.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
I’ve been following this for a while now, and finally getting to see a prototype is so awesome! I’m getting the itch to go camping now!
I have a few but your collection is just epic.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Wait, LH351D 2700k and 5000k 90CRI?
Yeaaaahhh nice.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Nice to see this lantern is almost ready. This has been quite a long project. I’m still in for one just like I was 3 years ago. Its looking real good.
The logo is fine but the font looks akward : the “1” leg is larger than the rest and also the “B” bellies, you won’t see that on professional fonts or better designed free fonts.
May I suggest to reuse the same as the BLF Q8 which looks more polished.
Not a dealbreaker if it’s not changed though.
Wood (branches, balcony) colors look nice.
interested for one
I like the path this lantern is taking, the only thing that worries me is the white diffuser material. Having owned 10+ led lanterns I know this is something that is really difficult to get done right.
Not only the type of material is important, but the thickness, outer and inner finish, transparency, tint/CRI retention, abrasion resistance, it all comes to play.
One of the best diffusers I have seen is from my core 100lm 3xaa lantern, also available at Walmart as their own brand: even light distribution, high transmittance, and almost no tint change with or without the diffuser. Even though it is just 100 lumens it feels like all of the light produced shines through the diffuser. If you look at it while off, it doesn’t look white but grey-ish.
My nitecore LR10 produces a greenish tint and it doesn’t appear to be like being produced from the emitters, the same yellowing effect that silicone diffusers have. Some cheap lanterns have the material made so thick it practically blocks half the output, while the diffuser itself it blindingly bright. (Light doesn’t shine through).
This is the sort of thing that are difficult to be determined though pictures, but IMO ideally the perfect diffuser should be clear, high transparency, with decent abrasion resistance polycarbonate material, with the correct frosting on one side. Not just some semi translucid white plastic.
USB power meter/tester thread
OK, now I want two!!
I agree that the diffuser material should be high transmittance and no tint/CCT change. A thick white plastic diffuser most likely fails in both regards. Is there a way to check this property of the lantern?
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
is this emitter just for the prototypes?
If these are 90CRI, then they are both for the prototype and final build.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
That will be a part of my tests when i receive the test unit. I have tested many different levels of frosting & types of shades with both the build prototypes i designed, and found that a lighter (roughly 20 ~ 30%) frosting worked the best for not changing the tint or blocking actual LED lumens. While the less frosting will allow you to partially see the LED emitters more, it lets the best balance of lumens through along with still smoothing out the hard-lighting & glare adequately. (the V2 of the prototype i built shows roughly the translucence of the shade, ( in the OP)
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
As BlueSwordM mentioned its for the production models too.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Can you put me down for a second lantern please? (Already on for one at #1260).
I don’t need a lantern, i don’t use lanterns, and the lanterns my friends have are glarey little buggers that give me a headache whenever i try to use them to actually see anything. I also don’t do multi-cell li-ion lights, and am trying not to purchase any more 18650 lights (FW3A excepted) in favour of the 21700 lights that are hopefully on the horizon. I also try not to wax too lyrically about anything.
But i followed this thread for a while out of curiosity, and the detail and care that went into trying to get the beam profile right really hit home with me and i knew at that point i would be buying one, not just to own but to support the project and show respect for the work that has gone into this project. And the process has been a joy to follow with all the decisions having a satisfying ‘correctness’ about them. The fact that Lexel and TK are handling the electronics is just icing on the cake.
To have this level of competency in any product is a rare thing and is something i want to recognise, so thank you DBSAR, and all involved.
And now i feel i should buy two, couldn’t tell you why, certainly not for any practical reason, but i know somehow it’s justified.
All imho of course
Please put me on the list for two.
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