Not bad.
Try a bypass.
Is there a possibility they might not be using top binned LEDs?
Not bad.
Try a bypass.
Is there a possibility they might not be using top binned LEDs?
7000 lumens ANSI isn't all that bad. This is close to the best I've seen or gotten - think I got ~9000 Tom E lumens on a single XHP70.2 at best.
Not sure bout the spring spacing - I think I'd have to dis-assemble them to check that.
With bypasses and a pair of 40T's or 2070C's that I got, it should get a nice bump. Only got one 30T and one P42A.
Yolo mix the p42 and 30T for 30 seconds.
So this No. from Tom for easy comparison
“ON two blue LK 50A’s at 4.19V:
11.9 amps (tail, clamp meter)
Lumens (Tom E/ANSI, start-30secs): 7850/6930-7240/6390
Throw, measured at 5 meters: 194 kcd (881 meters)
GOLISI 26650 4300 mAh @4.20B, one cell solder blob’ed: 14.2A
—> Lumens: 8600/7590 - 7820/6900, throw: 203 kcd (901m)
Shockli 21700 4000 mAh @4.19V, as-is stock, no solder blob: 12.7A (springs not compressed much)
—> Lumens: 8640/7620 - 7960/7020, throw: 208 kcd (912m)”
Look like it can make> 9k Lumens with spring bypass
OK, did the dirty deed of adding 20 AWG bypasses, and ripping out the small inside springs. For those of you not familiar with the SANYO 2070C cell, it's a 20700 size, 3500 mAh rated capacity, nice protruding top so you don't need to add a button or solder blob. It's the best performing cell in the 20700 size, easily beats the SANYO 20700A, which is quite a good cell itself. Available here:
https://www.imrbatteries.com/sanyo-ncr2070c-3500mah-35a-battery/
Review here: https://www.facebook.com/batterymooch/posts/bench-test-results-sanyo-ncr2070c-20700
So with a pair of these 2070C's at 4.20V with the spring bypasses, this is what I got:
15.6 amps measured at the tail, lumens: 9790/8640 - 8940/7890, throw taken at 5m: 232 kcd (963m)
So for Tom E lumens: 8940 at 30 secs, ANSI lumens: 7890 at 30 secs. The GOLISI's might even do better - will re-test with them.
I'm thinking this is pretty darn good, and with a nice stock UI.
The massive 40 mm MCPCB:
Driver stock setup:
Stock setup in the tail:
Tail bypass. Driver side done the same way:
Got one of mine today. Can’t wait till this evening. May change the springs on the tail switch and driver when I get a chance but I like it so far.
Amazon has a listing, but says 4/27 availability.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2QSCBC/ref=twister_B07Q2XVV52?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mine will be here soon from ali… Do I need another one?
Hopefully Tracy will help us with a discount code when they become available on amazon.
Does anyone have driver pics yet? I’m really curious what FET they are using. I’ve gotten currents up to 19A on my Lexel made driver with Aspire 4300 cells.
I’m wondering if the FET is what is keeping the amperage down a little. Still, that’s some impressive output on the stock driver. The slightly lower amps is probably going to give you longer Turbo runtime before getting really hot. Besides, I don’t think you’re going to be able to see any difference in output with your eyes between 14 amps and 19 amps. Mostly just a bump in the numbers.
Tom,
thank you for the pictures. Neat job!
I’m thinking of getting one but can Sofirn make other colours available ?
I got too many black flashlights and it’s boring me out
Something like silver to blue?
Also why did they go with orange peel reflector?
They were supposed to go with a very light OP finish on the reflector because the SMO created some ugly looking artifacts in the beam and Sofirn was worried that customers might complain about it. As to why they seem to have gone to a heavier OP finish, I really don’t know.
Here is the SMO picture they showed earlier.
.
As was mentioned before by others as well, I still can’t imagine that a 70.2 can make a donut hole like that, more likely the led was not focused.
1. I did not have to remove the outer spring. Here's what I did:
2. Did it for greater current flow and avoiding spring melting, but was hoping it would result in fitting 700 long cells easier
3. Nope - a 20 AWG wire is wayyyy better, much lower resistance than a typical spring. If these were high grade springs (Be/Cu for example), then the wire might not make much difference but probably still better - I don't know the exact #'s, so can only guess.
4. I'm having trouble visualizing what you are saying, but the high resistance of springs is the coils. Connecting the tops or bottoms wont help. If you take a spring, stretch it fully out, it's very long, and usually is coated steel, and since steel is a poor conductor, most of the elctrcial flow is thru the coating which is a thin layer. Under compression, the resistance length is greatly reduced since the coils make contact. This is why long cells seem to do better than shorter cells - I saw and measured this with the 20700's compared to the 26650's.
I got the driver loosened but not removed. My plan was to remove the driver with using the beveled angled iron tip (Hakko BC/C) which can get a lot of heat to the tip, but the wired solder connection to the MCPCB would not budge. I had to wet the tip, and this would soften the original solder but not enough to remove the wire. I gave up for now, since I didn't need to remove the driver to add the bypass to the spring, but when I try again I'll use the bigger size BC/C shaped tip and crank up the iron temp.
I hate the lead free stock solder they use - seems to be high temp stuff, and on this big MCPCB, the heat gets pulled away from the pad quickly. I really don't understand this - some MCPCB are worse than others, like I never have trouble with Noctigons, but L4P MCPCB's are a pain to solder to. Maybe it's the coatings, not sure.
For the FET's, it seems impossible for sourcing the best FET's in China, so the Infineon Lexel (and I) use are probably about the best now, though I like the SIRA20DP as well. We know they' can't source Vishay's,since the SIR800DP's they use all seem to be fakes. Fakes may be over stating it, fakes are almost second sources on the original, like the 7135's are cloned/copied/faked. China makers can't import parts easily - they are penalized for doing that.
These springs should be Be/Cu.
How did you remove the inner spring without the outer? Can it be twisted out? I would just remove both then put the big spring back as it easy with a solder iron.
These springs should be Be/Cu. How did you remove the inner spring without the outer? Can it be twisted out? I would just remove both then put the big spring back as it easy with a solder iron.
I don't know how to tell a Be/Cu spring from a regular. I thought I explained it in detail. Basically, yes, the inner spring was twisted out - on the driver side, not the tail inner spring.
The spring pad is as wide as the spring so there is no pad space outside the spring to add solder - I always struggle with an iron on this setup. I'd rather just remove the inner spring if not that difficult.
Tom E has been modding lights even longer than I have, when it comes to tricks and tips he knows as good or better than anyone here.
modding is a matter of wanting things done no matter, you think out ways and it works, or it does not work, or you screw it up.