Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

Before the bypasses:

GOLISI 26650 4300 mAh @4.20V, one cell solder blob'ed: 14.2A

--> Lumens: 8600/7590 - 7820/6900, throw: 203 kcd (901m)

After the bypasses:

GOLISI 26650 4300 mAh @4.20V, one cell solder blob'ed: 14.65A

--> Lumens: 9620/8490 - 8740/7710, throw: 221 kcd (940m)

Roughly 10% range boost.

Parasitic drain I measured at 1.83 mA. Think that's a bit high, it includes the switch LED being ON.

Throw is surprisingly decent, in spite of a few things that induced misgivings. Sheer output can do that, a longer distance lux measurement will be interesting.

Tom, have you had an opportunity to run it long enough to get a feel for the thermal properties? The design certainly looks adequate, just wondering if it works in reality as it appears it should.

Wow that impressive wonder can it hit 10K.

Ok, makes sense. Thank you for the info!

Quite the procedure! Thank you!

Yea, I agree - does throw pretty decent. My #'s taken at 5m too, and it's a non-treated glass lens, but who knows - it still may perform well I recall the Q8 lens did well in clear, not much of a bump goin to a UCL/p. Didn't run it long, but even after the 30 secs and the throw tests, it feels a bit toasty, but really can't tell til it's really run continuously for a few mins.

Didn't mention this yet, the finning is nice but has some sharp edges. It doesn't appear to be a high qual anodizing because I can see some marks on those sharp edges. I suppose at this price and this size, I wouldn't expect much better. Kind of reminds of the old TrustFire J-18's, AK-47's, etc., but the threads are definitely nicer.

But don't get me wrong, overall I really like this light, lots of power and great UI even stock. I gotta look into changing the LED though to something more NW.

This turned out really good! I think we have to thank Jason for pursuing it with Sofirn, not sure of others were involved, but --

Thanks Jason!

Ok, some more info:

Just ran a 3 minute turbo test, temps taken on the outside:

  • 1 min: 33C
  • 2 mins: 42C
  • 3 mins 49C, and it stepped down, but dbl click brought it back up

The wires were easy to come off from using the bigger iron tip and 750C temps.

Driver pics:

Looks like a fairly simple design, might be equal to a FET+1 because that 3 legged part near the bottom appears to go out to the LED- side, same as the FET does. Looks like we could get a bump with a FET swap, perhaps.

The CTKS part is probably the LDO, but didn't trace it out yet.

The MCPCB is actually 42 mm x 1.5 mm. Back side is pretty smooth, no burrs, good amt of thermal grease, though I'd still prefer MX-4 in there. Shelf looks ok but didn't test it for flatness yet. I still would guess the wires are 18 AWG. I think the FET is the NXP MtnE sells here.

NW tint I will probably purchase!

I took some pictures of SP70 beam last evening. Do you notice the boats of the 2nd picture? It's dragon boats preparing for Duanwu festival celebration.

By the way, SP70 alone and bundle are available on amazon.com now! They are on sale as new release. For a bettery price, please contact sofirn for code!

What is the driver diameter?

30.07 mm, without the 2 bump outs.

I got 5700K P2's from Arrow, but the 4000K P2's at $7.43 each, even in qty 1, free shipping, is the sweet deal for this light.

Hello

* UPDATE 04/22/2019 *

Sofirn SP70 Set and SP70 Only are pre-order on AMAZON US with lower sale price. Flashlight set only $69.99 and flashlight only just $59.59!
Please contact us@sofirnlight.com or PM us on this forum directly to get one with $50!


Code please! Thank you!

Any concern for tailswitch failure?

What is the replacement part number/link for tailswitch and rubber boot?

Thanks for all the info Tom if it has your approval its a winner :smiley:

The project lost track but turned out okay i wonder what it would do with a SMO reflector.

Nope… no concern at all. I fact a tail switch is ’probably’ less likely to fail than an electronic side switch.

Don't have a pic of it, but the tailswitch is huge, looks like one of those 6 amp ones. For me, the addition of a tailswitch is always adding another unnecessary point of failure and added resistance, but it does have some functionality that some prefer. On this SP70, turning it on turns the main LED on to it's last level.

Tail switch off, zero parasitic drain. :wink:

Yep, same as a twist of the tail, though I'm not fond of doing that frequently. Ideally if the parasitic drain was low enough, wouldn't have to care, but wondering if the switch LED accounts for most of the drain because it's pretty darn bright - too bright really.