What is the driver diameter?
30.07 mm, without the 2 bump outs.
I got 5700K P2's from Arrow, but the 4000K P2's at $7.43 each, even in qty 1, free shipping, is the sweet deal for this light.
Hello
* UPDATE 04/22/2019 *
Sofirn SP70 Set and SP70 Only are pre-order on AMAZON US with lower sale price. Flashlight set only $69.99 and flashlight only just $59.59!
Please contact us@sofirnlight.com or PM us on this forum directly to get one with $50!
Code please! Thank you!
Any concern for tailswitch failure?
What is the replacement part number/link for tailswitch and rubber boot?
Thanks for all the info Tom if it has your approval its a winner 
The project lost track but turned out okay i wonder what it would do with a SMO reflector.
Nopeā¦ no concern at all. I fact a tail switch is āprobablyā less likely to fail than an electronic side switch.
Don't have a pic of it, but the tailswitch is huge, looks like one of those 6 amp ones. For me, the addition of a tailswitch is always adding another unnecessary point of failure and added resistance, but it does have some functionality that some prefer. On this SP70, turning it on turns the main LED on to it's last level.
Tail switch off, zero parasitic drain. 
Yep, same as a twist of the tail, though I'm not fond of doing that frequently. Ideally if the parasitic drain was low enough, wouldn't have to care, but wondering if the switch LED accounts for most of the drain because it's pretty darn bright - too bright really.
I wonder if RMMās 30mm FET driver (built for the L6) would pump out different numbers compared to the stock SP70 driver?
Will the SP70 ramp up out of moonlight mode? For instance, from OFF - Press and hold. Tom E said it goes to moonlight mode, but does it ramp up as well?
Not the UI I prefer. I'd really like the tailswitch to just be a power cut-off. The "power-on" indicator should be the side-switch light.
I'm very tempted to re-flash my L6 because it has the D4 UI and a lighted switch, and I no longer need the turn-on blink. But I'm sure I'll break something if I open it again, and I've yet to flash a single driver (or have the parts to) anyway.
Well, I wrote the firmware for the MtnE L6 driver originally, and hardware wise, looks like the the stock SP70 driver is using the same FET Richard's driver uses, so I don't see any gain in power there. Downside is Richard's driver has no support for the switch LED whatsoever, if you are interested in that, unless you upgrade it to NarsilM or Anduril, and assuming you can wire up the LED - not sure if the L6 driver has a pad for that or not, or needs to be wired to a MCU pin.
Other downside of the L6 driver, not sure if it's an issue or not, but we are using a 7135 at voltage levels it's not designed for (6V+). To me it looks like the SP70 is using better, proper parts for the lower output levels channel. Dunno for certain on this, but sure looks like parts rated for higher voltage levels. We've been lucky in using the 7135's this way, but if you go to more power, like 3 XHP70.2's, or 16x XHP50's (like I did), the 7135's do fail. I found this out, and TA - TA used a totally different approach/design in his new high powered 6V+ drivers and got rid of the 7135.
So the L6 driver should fit/mount ok - but also might need the ground ring raised, maybe add a brass ring, because the stock driver has a raised ground ring, probably to compensate for a gap to make contact to the tube.
It seems like people forget that this light was designed ground up as a hot rod, itās essentially already modded by Sofirn with the assistance of BLF. While there may be some slight gains to be had itās not necessary to work on the light at allā¦ which was the point in talking a Mfr. into making this kind of light for BLF.
This is exactly why I donāt really offer modding services, no matter how hard I work on a light somebody always wants to take it apart and change something. So I donāt do it. If theyāre capable of making changes to my mods they can do the mods themselves. This kind of deal was put together so people that donāt mod can have the benefits of a tweaked design, the optimizations of what we as modders do but straight out of the box. Of course modders will still mod it, for some folks itās just what they do (I know this all too well) but again, it isnāt necessary and the potential gains are minimal without going to extremes.
+1 Dale, but in addition we also want Sofirn to make lights as easy to mod and repair as reasonably possible, so I can understand the modders asking, and of course the modders are at all different levels of expertise. For the Q8 for example, we insisted on easy access to the driver and LED's, and we need to keep emphasizing and reminding the manufacturers to do so.
I think I've got that driver in my L6. The 7135 is holding up fine for now. I have noticed some interesting behavior though, the 7135 modes seem brighter when the battery voltage is lower... I don't know what that means. But at fresh charge, I can stare at the moonlight mode all day and the little speckles in the yellow phosphor. When the total voltage is below around 7.6ish, the moonlight gets bright enough that I mostly can't look directly at the emitter.
And I did use an MCU pin for my lighted side-switch. It was that or straight up battery voltage.
+1 Tom and Dale
I wasnāt trying to insinuate anything with my question; I was just curious as there was a little side-talk about the quality of the FET and the UI ramping.
I purchased 2 Haikelite SC26ās and realized afterwards the UI was pretty terrible, but I havenāt learned how to flash firmware, and the SC26 driver is an odd ball size. So for now, my fix is to just replace the driver if I donāt like the UI. This is what caught my eye:
Tom, if you press and hold from Off, and you go into moon mode, how do you get it to ramp up? Hopefully not turn it off and then back onā¦
Yes, there's no ramping from moon. Yep, I find this lacking/annoying, but the lowest setting of ramping is pretty low, but not as low as moon. The annoying thing is if you last turned off the light at a high setting, you are gonna get blasted by that high setting, either from a power startup or click to get back into ramping. You can still access moon mode of course independently, but if you want to get back into ramping, you'll get blasted by the last set high level. It kind of violate my (the?) rules of a good UI:
- simply click for ON and OFF
- easy access to last level used
- easy access to max/turbo
- easy access to the lowest level
So they did provide access to moon directly, but not directly to the lowest ramping level.
Only mod i would do personally is slice the dome on the LED. Maybe a spring bypass.
I had thought I understood that moon was an independent setting, I didnāt realize though that because of that you couldnāt enter the ramp at the lowest level from turn onā¦ that potential to come on in high is really a killer, really going to have to look into changing that one.