[Reference] Nichia E17A/E21A (2000K - 6500K, R9050/R9080, color) CCT and tint shots

Red E17A is perfect for turtles! :laughing:
https://conserveturtles.org/beachfront-lighting-turtle-friendly-fixtures-lights/

[Clemence]

Added lumens and efficacy numbers to the Google Sheet.

Individual Current-Flux-Voltage curves

2000K
2200K
2700K
3000K
3500K
4000K
4500K
5000K
5700K
6500K

Tint in an integrating sphere without any optics, i.e. how these measure diffused and how the binning is done (much closer to advertised CCT values)

Individual CRI data

2000K
2200K
2700K
3000K
3500K
4000K
4500K
5000K
5700K
6500K
2000K+6500K

GREAT job Maukka :+1: :beer: . These integrated measurements is extremely close to OEM rated, a good example of what to expect from 3 steps binned Nichias. Many thanks for all your efforts.
FYI, this also closer match to my tint shots in the OP (no optics, matte white reflector)

[Clemence]

Great job as usual Maukka, thank’s for measuring the requested mixes :+1:

The thought behind this is to get the tint of a d240 4000K Wizard Pro below the bbl on the medium modes since the current setup is above it even on M3 ~250lm as bob_mcbob measured. And I see 4000K+4500K is slightly below the BBL at around 450lm.

Speaking of, Maukka could you add info about which flux binning you used in cases more than one is available? Eg. your previous the 4000K you measured abut a year or more ago had the d220 bin but now you’ve measured the d240 bin.

I find the results a bit optimistic besides the 5000K (which bin?). At 700mA/led, thus around 990lm it’s pretty obvious the tint is going to be below BBL and the E21A is well known for that. Even the XHP50 WW in the Wizard is below BBL on turbo. 990lm is more a turbo mode than a regular used and sustainable mode in a typical host. What really matters is how every setup performs a medium mode and a low mode which are going te be used by fat the most in real world usage. IMO it would be more interesting to know how they perform at lets say 200lm or even less. That’s where the “big table” helps.

I couldn’t agree more…

But I’m actually open for a positive duv setup for special tasks. For walking in the woods I actually prefer positive duv above a pink tint, maybe because trees aren’t pink and leaves look less green under a pink tint :smiley:

Or maybe a 4500K (rosy)+5000K(greenish) mix to create a true neutral 4750K…

Clemence probably knows the flux bins. I just got the bare leds on mcpcbs.

New E21A flux bins measured by Maukka can be checked via my store. Sm503 = D240, sm403 = D240.
No LED can satisfy your needs for consistent tint. You asks for below BBL from the very low current yet stays there at very high current. This is almost impossible with such wide operating current, not with current technology. That’s why PWM control is highly desired in CCT and tint critical lighting.
If you want to get the most consistent tint and CCT, go with Optisolis. Or any mid power LED. There’s no magic here, with such low current range you wont get tint/CCT swings as those in high power LED.

[Clemence]

FYI, we tested all those LEDs at 700ma because that’s the current used for all E21A binning standard (Nichia)

[Clemence]

I don’t have needs for consistent tint. But I want them to have a decent tint at 100lm and above and my 3000K+4000K(d220) Wizard and 3000K d220 non-mixed Wizard give me that. That’s one of the reasons I’m extremely satisfied with it. I use low and medium modes the most and this mix gives a good tint even on low modes.

Eg. a 2x3500K+2x4500K mix at 0.1A/led ~140lm/otl will give a duv of (0,0007−0,0014):2= −0.0007.

are these possibly still an idea to make?. I need a 16mm MCPCB for Carlco 10507. E21A 503.

Yes, I have also a few Astrolux S41 to mod with such a triple.

Guessing that Clemence was busy because he didn’t post message on BLF recently I sent an e-mail asking if he still intend to make this triple E21A MCPCB and he responded :

Thanks. I’ve been wondering where Clemence has been and if he’s okay. I’m glad to hear he got the city light project, since it’s kind of a big deal.

I wish Clemence was working on my city lights with some nichia goodness. Our city lights are probably below 50 cri, or worse

Thanks for the update Tally-Ho :slight_smile: :+1:

[Clemence]

Has anybody tried E21A 3500K quad? How is the tint, how is the light in real life applications? Recently I got my Nichias and I can’t decide what diode combination I should solder 4500k+3500K or 3500k. 3500k looks great according to the tests, but I am afraid that it will be too yellow/orange.

It depends when you want to use it. In my opinion 3500K is as cool as I can handle at night. 4000K is good for night and day.

My E21 quads are kind of blue to the eye.

What temp do your quads have?

I see, so 3500k is closer to neutral white than to something yellow. Could you please describe how 3500k looks indoors at noon? By indoors I mean an ordinary room with a window or two.

I bought (2) 5000K E21A quads from Virence. Actually, they are headlights in my profile pic. I noticed the grass, tomato, cucumber, and other greens in my backyard appeared more blue than green at night when I lit the backyard with them. However, my camera showed them as mostly green. Hmm, now I question my manual CCT setting on the camera at the time… I will check the metadata.

Let me start fresh with the CCT explanation. I have a fixture over my desk that holds 5 standard bulbs. I bought (3) 6-packs of high CRI Hyperikon in 3000K, 4000K, and 5000K. I needed something that would work for day and night in all weather. This room only has a large North-facing window. There are trees behind my house, so light pollution at night isn’t really a thing I deal with.

The 5000K were… industrial. My wife walked in around sunset and instantly disapproved, saying the color was like florescent lights from work. I agreed.
The 4000K felt nice and neutral, day and night. But I do like a little warm in my lights to help me relax in the evening.
The 3000K were a little too warm day and night, but not bothersome.
So I installed (3) 4000K and (2) 3000K into the same fixture. That is an effective CCT of 3600K. It’s perfect day and night. It neither feels warm or cool any time of the day or in any weather.

Color temperature preferences vary by person, and by ambient conditions.

I tend towards warm CCT’s around the house, and especially when it’s fully dark, but when I need extra light working outdoors around sunset, I like to stay closer to 5000K.

If in doubt, I lean towards recommending 4000K as a decent compromise for most conditions and users.

I used to say it varies by person too, but I’m learning it’s more about the conditions the person uses the lights under. You said you work in 5000K, me too for soldering tasks. I put the 5000K in my workbench area. It helps keep my energy up.
I like warm CCT (2700-3000) in the bedroom and bathrooms because I am getting ready for bed at that time.

The ideal bulb would be cool and bright around noon, and dim and warm around midnight. But that’s not how bulbs work, so we choose CCT by the activity we do in the room and when that is.