Trying to push 30A through springs is a very, very difficult task.
Honestly, I have to say Nitecore was both lazy, greedy, and impatient in this regard.
Why? While they are right in regards that the springs would oxidize, they didn’t tell why…
Well, at 30A, any normal spring would melt pretty much instantly.
Here’s the thought process Nitecore probably had:
1. Let’s use gold plated steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 6A.
2. Let’s use gold plated dual steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 9A.
2. Let’s use dual phosphor bronze springs. Oh no again, they failed at 18A of continuous use.
4. Well, nothing on the market actually exists that can handle the load of a 100-120W light running off of a single cell.
Let’s put a 10A cell in a 30A flashlight and weld nickel plated copper strips instead.
If the engineers, or rather, Nitecore, actually put in effort into designing adequate contacts, they should’ve just looked at BLF and see what members cooked up in spring design.
They could’ve used dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs, and they would’ve worked quite well if they had waited for a 25-30A cell.
Trying to push 30A through springs is a very, very difficult task.
Honestly, I have to say Nitecore was both lazy, greedy, and impatient in this regard.
Why? While they are right in regards that the springs would oxidize, they didn’t tell why…
Well, at 30A, any normal spring would melt pretty much instantly.
Here’s the thought process Nitecore probably had:
1. Let’s use gold plated steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 6A.
2. Let’s use gold plated dual steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 9A.
2. Let’s use dual phosphor bronze springs. Oh no again, they failed at 18A of continuous use.
4. Well, nothing on the market actually exists that can handle the load of a 100-120W light running off of a single cell.
Let’s put a 10A cell in a 30A flashlight and weld nickel plated copper strips instead.
If the engineers, or rather, Nitecore, actually put in effort into designing adequate contacts, they should’ve just looked at BLF and see what members cooked up in spring design.
They could’ve used dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs, and they would’ve worked quite well if they had waited for a 25-30A cell.
um, yeah. that’s what i said…the good thing is now i know why i said it. i can’t believe the wealth of info you guys have trapped in your minds…
Trying to push 30A through springs is a very, very difficult task.
Honestly, I have to say Nitecore was both lazy, greedy, and impatient in this regard.
Why? While they are right in regards that the springs would oxidize, they didn’t tell why…
Well, at 30A, any normal spring would melt pretty much instantly.
Here’s the thought process Nitecore probably had:
1. Let’s use gold plated steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 6A.
2. Let’s use gold plated dual steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 9A.
2. Let’s use dual phosphor bronze springs. Oh no again, they failed at 18A of continuous use.
4. Well, nothing on the market actually exists that can handle the load of a 100-120W light running off of a single cell.
Let’s put a 10A cell in a 30A flashlight and weld nickel plated copper strips instead.
If the engineers, or rather, Nitecore, actually put in effort into designing adequate contacts, they should’ve just looked at BLF and see what members cooked up in spring design.
They could’ve used dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs, and they would’ve worked quite well if they had waited for a 25-30A cell.
Why do people always think conventional? You just need not the spring to conduct the current!
just use the spring to push the contact against the battery, you could use the same sort of contact like for spotwelding just with a bit raised button
Or use a springless contact. Like DQG.
In a constant-length light that doesn’t need daily cell swaps (like that Nitecore) one could use a contact screw.
BTW I haven’t seen that Lumintop contact. Looks like a professionally done spring bypass.
I have zero interest in this Cu/Ti E07 after being totally disappointed in the D4 Cu/Ti. The D4 gets blaz'n hot in a couple seconds - pretty useless unless you got thermal protective gloves to operate the thing with. Sure, copper is great for thermal transfer, but there's gotta be a better way to use it, like wrapped in aluminum maybe, I dunno....
I have zero interest in this Cu/Ti E07 after being totally disappointed in the D4 Cu/Ti. The D4 gets blaz’n hot in a couple seconds – pretty useless unless you got thermal protective gloves to operate the thing with. Sure, copper is great for thermal transfer, but there’s gotta be a better way to use it, like wrapped in aluminum maybe, I dunno….
CRX has wrapped his triple in titanium. Which didn’t work well. Then he replaced that with carbon fibre and is happy with the result.
I am not a big fan of the Clear-Anodize aluminum, a flashlight should not look too bling bling it should look cool also..for me as a security guard this would look to bling bling being on duty.
However black with copper head would look better, better contrast also…
I guess we will have to wait and see if this is aluminum or titanium. Anyway… I am waiting for the astrolux competitor.
I am not a big fan of the Clear-Anodize aluminum, a flashlight should not look too bling bling it should look cool also..for me as a security guard this would look to bling bling being on duty.
However black with copper head would look better, better contrast also…
I guess we will have to wait and see if this is aluminum or titanium. Anyway… I am waiting for the astrolux competitor.
It’s copper main body with TI batt tube and bezel. The other issue besides baller bling is that the TI conducts heat extremely well and makes the entire light, your hand and the cell get extremely hot extremely fast. My raw alu E07 just on stock top of ramp still reaches 50C in like 2-3 mins. Holding a light that’s batt tube is 40+ degrees after a minute wouldn’t be worth the baller bling imo
My raw alu E07 just on stock top of ramp still reaches 50C in like 2-3 mins.
You should be cautious not using turbo too often and for too long if you didn’t correct the LEDs MCPCB because it is not sitting properly on the head’s shelf and the heat isn’t evacuated properly to the flashlight’s body. Particularly if yours is the Nichia which heats up very quickly.
Nice idea but one has to be careful with the SST40. koef3 discovered that the bonding wires already burn with about 9A and more than 7.4A are not reasonable. However, maybe the N5 flux bin is less sensitive to overcurrent than N4 tested by koef3.
That’s not the problem.
Trying to push 30A through springs is a very, very difficult task.
Honestly, I have to say Nitecore was both lazy, greedy, and impatient in this regard.
Why? While they are right in regards that the springs would oxidize, they didn’t tell why…
Well, at 30A, any normal spring would melt pretty much instantly.
Here’s the thought process Nitecore probably had:
1. Let’s use gold plated steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 6A.
2. Let’s use gold plated dual steel springs. Oh no, they failed at 9A.
2. Let’s use dual phosphor bronze springs. Oh no again, they failed at 18A of continuous use.
4. Well, nothing on the market actually exists that can handle the load of a 100-120W light running off of a single cell.
Let’s put a 10A cell in a 30A flashlight and weld nickel plated copper strips instead.
If the engineers, or rather, Nitecore, actually put in effort into designing adequate contacts, they should’ve just looked at BLF and see what members cooked up in spring design.
They could’ve used dual gold plated BeCu C17500 springs, and they would’ve worked quite well if they had waited for a 25-30A cell.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
um, yeah. that’s what i said…the good thing is now i know why i said it. i can’t believe the wealth of info you guys have trapped in your minds…
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
Well, you’re right.
The gold plating doesn’t oxidize. It’s just that the springs fails first
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Why do people always think conventional?
You just need not the spring to conduct the current!
just use the spring to push the contact against the battery, you could use the same sort of contact like for spotwelding just with a bit raised button
Lumintop did it here
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
But wasn’t there a bunch of lights that failed in that run? Wasn’t it the Odl20c?
never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby
Or use a springless contact. Like DQG.
In a constant-length light that doesn’t need daily cell swaps (like that Nitecore) one could use a contact screw.
BTW I haven’t seen that Lumintop contact. Looks like a professionally done spring bypass.
some pictures of my copper E07 in the german forum:
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/fireflies-e07-copper-titanium...
It’s nice to have the thread back on track with your CuTi E07 pictures but without a TLF account we can only see thumbnails.
ok, I will load the pictures in a cloud and will publish it direct in this forum…..Sorry
@Lexel, I do know about leaf spring contacts.
I’m just saying Nitecore should’ve used a better solution than making an unreplaceable cell pack.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I have zero interest in this Cu/Ti E07 after being totally disappointed in the D4 Cu/Ti. The D4 gets blaz'n hot in a couple seconds - pretty useless unless you got thermal protective gloves to operate the thing with. Sure, copper is great for thermal transfer, but there's gotta be a better way to use it, like wrapped in aluminum maybe, I dunno....
CRX has wrapped his triple in titanium. Which didn’t work well. Then he replaced that with carbon fibre and is happy with the result.
They are beautiful and great pics! Thank for going through the effort of posting them here!
Cheers!
@FireFlies, anything else in the pipeline you want to share? A refreshed E07? A new light?
Yes, thank you for taking the time
Yes, luv the pics - great job!! (should have said so before...
)
I do luv the look of copper, but an E07 with all that power is wut scares me - least alum the rest of the light maybe?
It seems E07 Cu edition product page is up on their web
http://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57
But somehow I don’t think Fireflies actually means to give these away for free.
I am not a big fan of the Clear-Anodize aluminum, a flashlight should not look too bling bling it should look cool also..for me as a security guard this would look to bling bling being on duty.
However black with copper head would look better, better contrast also…
I guess we will have to wait and see if this is aluminum or titanium. Anyway… I am waiting for the astrolux competitor.
It’s copper main body with TI batt tube and bezel. The other issue besides baller bling is that the TI conducts heat extremely well and makes the entire light, your hand and the cell get extremely hot extremely fast. My raw alu E07 just on stock top of ramp still reaches 50C in like 2-3 mins. Holding a light that’s batt tube is 40+ degrees after a minute wouldn’t be worth the baller bling imo
The BIG List of 500m+ Throw Flashlights!
TI doesn’t conduct anywhere near as well as aluminum yet alone copper.
You should be cautious not using turbo too often and for too long if you didn’t correct the LEDs MCPCB because it is not sitting properly on the head’s shelf and the heat isn’t evacuated properly to the flashlight’s body. Particularly if yours is the Nichia which heats up very quickly.
The little sister, FireFlies E01
“15mm thick integrated shelf”
Just saw that and came here looking for answers. Doesn't look like there are any yet.
That optic though... That's sexy.
it looks like the black version had a slightly different optics
Wonder if they can give us a direct front shot of the optic and a disassembled pic to see how the mcpcb looks like.
Nice idea but one has to be careful with the SST40. koef3 discovered that the bonding wires already burn with about 9A and more than 7.4A are not reasonable. However, maybe the N5 flux bin is less sensitive to overcurrent than N4 tested by koef3.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58900
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