TK's Emisar D18 review -- 3x18650 photon grenade

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Yeah, and we are within an hour of seeing whether or not we get softball sized hail accompanied by tornado’s. Damaging wind, flooding rain, a line of supercells is wreaking havoc across Texas as I write this and of course, it’s heading right at us…

[idleprocess]

@DB Custom

With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?

Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

An enterprising soul could produce an alternate topmost PCB with aux LEDs, but those would certainly have to shine through said PCB somehow since it appears to be effectively flush with the lens.

[SKV89]

I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 10,600 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s, but the tint is very nice. The top of ramp is set the same as turbo so double click from off takes it directly to turbo. Typical Anduril lights sets the top of ramp at about 50% or so of turbo.

Does anyone else have the XP-L Hi version? I’m curious is the XP-L HI version dimmer than the SST-20 version. My M43 with XP-L HI 5D was 1,000 lumens lower than the XP-G2 5D version.

EDIT: I just realize one of the batteries was a Sofirn 2200mah and not the VTC5D. I remeasured using 3x VTC5D and got 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.

[Eleziel]

@idleprocess

@DB Custom

With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?

Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

An enterprising soul could produce an alternate topmost PCB with aux LEDs, but those would certainly have to shine through said PCB somehow since it appears to be effectively flush with the lens.

What about removing the TIR blackout cups and putting the aux leds next to them?

[maukka]

Really like the 3000K candle mode. Compared to an HDS, which only has 4 distinct levels, Anduril is very authentic.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

The “blackout cups” are actually holders with 2 pins in the base that match 2 holes in the emitter shelf. Remove the holder and the TIR would be out of position and loose.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

SKV89, is there a typo in here? ” I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

[SKV89]

@DB Custom

SKV89, is there a typo in here? ” I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Ok, I’ve been wondering… the shelf that the driver sits on is anodized, no ground current flows through the contact between driver and shelf so all ground flow must come through the two hold down screws which are SS it appears. So how much current gain could come in by using brass screws? Or by cleaning the shelf of the ano? (AND using brass screws?) [yes, I know, the battery tube carries ground through the opposite side, but still, it would improve if ano were removed and brass screws used, for the spring MCPCB in the tail section as well. ]

Arsenio Hall, things that make ya go Hmmmmmm……

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

So yes, that’s what I’m saying, use brass screws to hold down that robust copper spring board and bypass those springs, watch this puppy come ALIVE!

[SKV89]

Dale did you order one? I would be very interested to see what you do to increase current and output.

[blueb8llz]

@SKV89

I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 10,600 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s, but the tint is very nice. The top of ramp is set the same as turbo so double click from off takes it directly to turbo. Typical Anduril lights sets the top of ramp at about 50% or so of turbo.

Does anyone else have the XP-L Hi version? I’m curious is the XP-L HI version dimmer than the SST-20 version. My M43 with XP-L HI 5D was 1,000 lumens lower than the XP-G2 5D version.

Where did you purchase your xplhi version?

[SKV89]

Bought from Hank. Just email him for custom emitter options.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I haven’t ordered one, yet… my friend got his a couple of days ago and turned it around to come to me for some tender loving care. New emitters sit here waiting and I’ll have to play it by ear on the rest. He’s into mega lumens, wants the most out of it I can squeeze, so that’s what I aim to do. Should be here tomorrow I think…

[SKV89]

Looking forward to what you can do with it. I was hoping for 15k-18k lumens at turn-on since my E07 with only 7 of the same emitter makes 7k lumens.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

SKV89, bypass the springs in the tail and see what that does, should make a noticeable improvement. Simple enough to do, won’t take but a few minutes.

[iamlucky13]

@maukka

Really like the 3000K candle mode. Compared to an HDS, which only has 4 distinct levels, Anduril is very authentic.

I also think candle mode is great (I gel my Anduril ROT66 for warmth), but do you find it a bit too fast, or perhaps just too “flickery”?

I think it would be better if it were maybe 2/3 the average frequency, although perhaps Toykeeper has further tweaked the rate since the build I have.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I’ve been using the candlelight modes in Anduril for quite a while now, with the physical issues I have I find comfort in a long hot bath… I set up 2 or 3 lights with Anduril in Candlelight and put some jazz on my Harmon Kardon Onyx 4’s and I’m good to go! Laying there in the steaming water with my eyes closed the ambient light I sense is just exacly like having several candles burning, love it! Even in Ham’r, the adjustability is just fantastic and the realism I find best almost all the way dim. Brighter loses the depth of field of the flicker to me. Cranked down low the absolute dim level is very convincing, like a breeze is about to blow out the flame. I use this quite often, just this morning actually.

[Tixx]

@SKV89

@DB Custom

SKV89, is there a typo in here? ” I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens

So you have the XP-L Hi 4000k D18 and it was just under 11k lumens?

[Relampago]

@DB Custom

I’ve been using the candlelight modes in Anduril for quite a while now, with the physical issues I have I find comfort in a long hot bath… I set up 2 or 3 lights with Anduril in Candlelight and put some jazz on my Harmon Kardon Onyx 4’s and I’m good to go! Laying there in the steaming water with my eyes closed the ambient light I sense is just exacly like having several candles burning, love it! Even in Ham’r, the adjustability is just fantastic and the realism I find best almost all the way dim. Brighter loses the depth of field of the flicker to me. Cranked down low the absolute dim level is very convincing, like a breeze is about to blow out the flame. I use this quite often, just this morning actually.

I’ve got that HK Onyx 4, man does that bass hit!