Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

There are ways… but it would take some doing. I’m no EE, but I have played with small boost circuits for my illuminated tailcaps that can run off an AA or 14500.

I’ve used the TPS61099x (such as the TPS610993) to boost the voltage to a given output (eg: 3.0V) regardless of the input voltage. Runs fine down to 0.7V and will switch to pass-through mode if the input voltage exceeds the desired output voltage, so it’ll handle AA and li-ions just fine. Then use that boosted voltage as the input to any of our ATtiny’s. This chip is tiny, and works with just a few external components (also tiny). Very efficient and very low IQ.

Another option is one that I’ve never played with before, and you don’t see much talk about… the ATtiny43U. It has a built-in voltage boost circuit, though you’d still need the external inductor and capacitors (MC webpage, design guidelines).

This is all just providing a small amount of boosted juice for the ATtiny itself. This wouldn’t be for boosting the LED juice… just controlling the circuit that does so.

Interested

Interested

Interested.

Thanks,
Mike

Interested only if it is AA compatible.
Several units in individual orders or two units maximum per order.

Interested!

In depending on the price maybe nichia option too and how about red/orange leds indicators under the switch and Fully Copper? Titanium maybe?

Interested!

Thomas,

Can you check with Barry et al about the possibility of TIR optics? I’m unsure of the use-cases people may have for it, but in a smaller host, I’d assume it’d be for closer-up work rather than throw, so smoothing the beam out with TIR might be good.

Sure, I'll ask him. :-)

Very interested!

Thanks mate!

Interested in 1.

> How does that side switch not activate in one’s pocket?

A click stop at around a quarter turn of the battery tube/tailcap as a way of knowing it’s locked out — would be nice.

Or even a couple or three paint dots on tube and tailcap indicating the lockout alignment.

Or a hot-light thermal cutoff ….

If that effort isn’t successful, a simpler task would be to make the light 14500 only. That should be relatively easy to do in this light.

Yeah, Interested.

I’d buy one if it was available with a 4000K high-CRI emitter.

Interested, if Andúril :+1:

In

Interested