SKV89, is there a typo in here? ” I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?
Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens
Ok, I’ve been wondering… the shelf that the driver sits on is anodized, no ground current flows through the contact between driver and shelf so all ground flow must come through the two hold down screws which are SS it appears. So how much current gain could come in by using brass screws? Or by cleaning the shelf of the ano? (AND using brass screws?) [yes, I know, the battery tube carries ground through the opposite side, but still, it would improve if ano were removed and brass screws used, for the spring MCPCB in the tail section as well. 
]
Arsenio Hall, things that make ya go Hmmmmmm……
So yes, that’s what I’m saying, use brass screws to hold down that robust copper spring board and bypass those springs, watch this puppy come ALIVE! 
Dale did you order one? I would be very interested to see what you do to increase current and output.
Where did you purchase your xplhi version?
Bought from Hank. Just email him for custom emitter options.
I haven’t ordered one, yet… my friend got his a couple of days ago and turned it around to come to me for some tender loving care. New emitters sit here waiting and I’ll have to play it by ear on the rest. He’s into mega lumens, wants the most out of it I can squeeze, so that’s what I aim to do. Should be here tomorrow I think…
Looking forward to what you can do with it. I was hoping for 15k-18k lumens at turn-on since my E07 with only 7 of the same emitter makes 7k lumens.
SKV89, bypass the springs in the tail and see what that does, should make a noticeable improvement. Simple enough to do, won’t take but a few minutes.
I also think candle mode is great (I gel my Anduril ROT66 for warmth), but do you find it a bit too fast, or perhaps just too “flickery”?
I think it would be better if it were maybe 2/3 the average frequency, although perhaps Toykeeper has further tweaked the rate since the build I have.
I’ve been using the candlelight modes in Anduril for quite a while now, with the physical issues I have I find comfort in a long hot bath… I set up 2 or 3 lights with Anduril in Candlelight and put some jazz on my Harmon Kardon Onyx 4’s and I’m good to go! Laying there in the steaming water with my eyes closed the ambient light I sense is just exacly like having several candles burning, love it! Even in Ham’r, the adjustability is just fantastic and the realism I find best almost all the way dim. Brighter loses the depth of field of the flicker to me. Cranked down low the absolute dim level is very convincing, like a breeze is about to blow out the flame. I use this quite often, just this morning actually. 
So you have the XP-L Hi 4000k D18 and it was just under 11k lumens?
I’ve got that HK Onyx 4, man does that bass hit!
<—- all about dat bass, bout dat bass, bout dat bass ….
and lumens.
I found the Onyx 4 on sale and loved it, talked my wife into getting me a second one for Christmas. Paired up, sweet stuff right there! She dropped her Pixel and shattered the screen so I got her the new Pixel 3, use the old one as a glorified MP-3 player to run the Onyx 4 duo. Works like a charm! [in an odd twist, I put a screen protector on it AFTER it was broke to keep all the pieces in the frame]
Toykeeper’s “RPP Test” doesn’t make sense to me. Reversing the multimeter leads is not the same as putting the batteries in backwards:
From Toykeeper’s first post:
Reverse polarity protection (my DMM measured 0.00A with the leads connected backward, so RPP seems to work)
So this morning I went coffee free to modify my friends light. Took almost 3 hours to change the SST-20’s to Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters. But alas, the tiny Lisa optics don’t fit over the LH351D dome so I sliced all 18 emitters. Only to find out that, sliced, these actually lose lumens over the original set up. Nice tint, still a pretty tight hotspot (although larger than the 20’s) but still hot quick. Disappointing for all the effort. Beautiful now in candlelight mode and the color goes well with the gold host.
I tried.
She tested current flow. You put the DMM probes on the driver pos and neg. Power will flow one way, reverse the probes and power does not flow.
Maybe you can explain exactly why it does not make sense. Maybe there is an element I’m missing.
All stock d18 xpl hi 5000k and 6500k are hitting about 13000 lumen… sst20 6500k is hitting 14000 lumen…
The spec says 10,000 lm for the 3000K and 4000K version. Yours appears to be brighter than expected.