My thoughts when I saw it were also some form of nitride coating. There’s a number of variations, and they tend to be extremely durable. For small parts, the cost should not be too bad in high volumes.
Black oxide is actually a relatively poor finish in terms of wear tolerance and rust prevention, although does ok if kept oiled.
This brings up a big question:
The SST-20 version could be made pretty quickly if we use FB4 tint, but if we wait for FA or FD tint it might take a very long time or never happen at all.
So what should Lumintop do? Should they wait for a good rosy tint bin which might not exist… or use the widely-available FB4 tint which people are already familiar with in other lights?
FB4 tint plus Lee Minus-Green zircon filter. 
Go with the FB4. Maybe it can even be ready at launch along with the XP-L HI?
Yes, actually. You beat everyone else to the punch. 
Thanks. It’s super weird for me though. I’ve never been good at accepting praise or gifts… but it’s easier if I think of it as help.
Soon indeed!
I’m, uh, working on scripts to send out private messages. The plan is to send info to each person on the list in the order shown in post #4. But first I need to work out a way to do that. If a script can send one every 30 seconds, it’ll still take over 12 hours. Or perhaps it should intentionally go slower, to give people early on the list more time to order before other people get the info?
So… there are still some details to figure out. But the ordering process is close enough that this sort of thing matters now.
Either one should be fine… or any other cell typicall known for its mAh capacity instead of its peak amperage.
Yeah, based on the first pictures I didn’t think it would be any good… but in person, the dark chrome appearance is nice. I was mostly worried that it would be like some cheap lights I have where black paint comes off the clip easily and then it looks bad. But it doesn’t seem to be like that.
I have no idea how durable it is, but I doubt it’s as tough as those black nitride clips. It kinda reminds me of the finish on my rainbow titanium Olight, which I think is supposed to be PVD. But I’m usually pretty gentle with my lights, so I don’t see how things wear until they’ve been around a long time.
Ish. Sort of, but not very well. It lacks the hardware necessary to sense actual current, so even the best implementation would be approximate. It won’t be able to sustain a flat output level. It also won’t be very accurate, since voltage measurements vary from one driver to the next. So instead of spending bytes and adding complexity for a feature which would be mediocre or worse, it’s just using a simple 50% duty cycle.
I doubt I could make a mass exodus happen even if I tried… but more importantly, I don’t want to. If anything, that’s the opposite of what I want. BLF has a good community and I want it to stay healthy.
Yes. A standard Noctigon or Mtn board fits nicely. That’s what I’m using, actually. It’s easy to swap out the MCPCB.
As long as the battery itself doesn’t get overdriven, it should be fine. So I wouldn’t recommend using UltraFire cells unless you want ActualFire… but any reputable battery should work.
If the production models are like my sample, yes. The clip can be removed by unscrewing the tail. I recommend putting a thicker O-ring in the clip groove though, just to fill the gap for tactile purposes.
I’m one of those waiting for a high CRI option.
I am in favor of proceeding with either the FB4 tint of the SST-20, or with the LH351D even if it means raising the price a little bit.
I’m unaware that anyone has ever seen an FA4 or FD4 bin anywhere other than the datasheet. I’d love to be proven wrong, but otherwise, it seems like we’re waiting for an emitter that doesn’t exist.
Disclaimer: I’m only moderately sensitive to green tints, and planning to mod to test multiple different types of emitters anyways. I won’t be offended if my vote gets low weight as a result.
I’m all for just getting it done. I think most people here are cluey enough to replace emitters if FA/FD ever become widely available.
The SST-20 version could be made pretty quickly if we use FB4 tint,
•
•
•
how many K is this?
4k 95FPS average and 80FPS minimum…
Use the FB4, its a cheap emitter and will lower the cost for those of use that plan on putting our own led’s in.
Has anyone tried tint mixing the SST-20? I wouldn’t expect Lumintop to do it might be a good option.
I’d take FB4 now.
As there are currently no sources of small quantities of F A/D 1/4, I would buy several more later if it came out with those emitters.
Definitely the FB4.
4000k 95CRI
I have a D4S with mixed 4000k and 3000k SST-20. I’m really pleased with the result! I believe TK has the ultimate mix in her D18, though.
In for 3 if still taking reservations.
Excellent news! I can’t wait to swap rosy Nichias into my FW3A. :partying_face:
You’re very welcome! :+1:
Thank you for the pics of the latest prototype.
I have Andúril on eleven lights, but I might try your DarkHorse UI on the FW3A since it will accompany the two or three ZebraLights I carry daily.
I don’t have that one updated to work with three channels, but I could do that if people are interested. It’s just not something anyone has really expressed interest in before, so it hasn’t had any meaningful updates since I first created it in 2017.
Don’t go to any trouble on my account, it was just an idea I was toying with.
ZebraLight’s UI is very polarizing, but I really like it for EDC lights. I prefer Andúril for my flooders and throwers.
Next month is the 7-year anniversary of my first ZebraLight, and now I own six. My first was an H51w, and it still works great. It’s been getting lots more use since I put a rosy 219B in it two years ago. :partying_face:
Does your H51 get any use nowadays? I remember your ZL tips & mods thread from long ago.
Put me in for 2, please.
I’ve been meaning to update it for a long time… I just haven’t had a reason to prioritize it. Then again, I have a lot of things to do at the moment, so it might still be a while.
Not really, but my H52Fw does.