E-switch UI Development / FSM

It seems to get the measurements fast enough on most lights… but it probably helps if the LED wires are thick and the MCU is close to the copper pours for BAT+/LED+. Heat travels through those wires and traces into the feet of the MCU.

I’ve been gathering courage over the last few months; to give firmware code/editing another go. I’m not there yet, but I do have a question about a feature :slight_smile:

How much code/work would it require to make Anduril have the option to do a “soft off” ?

When clicking once when on, instead of the light turning off instantly after the tiny delay:

I would love to make it do a really quick ramp down from the ramp level it was on. And THEN turn off completely.

I mean, “we have the technology”. So why not add another fancy feature :smiley:

User revdns did this mod back in 2016. Same concept. source

I tried adding a soft-on and soft-off feature once. It wasn’t very hard to add, but there’s a catch. If the user clicks during the ramp-up or ramp-down period, things can get a little tricky. It needs a way to abort the animation. This is probably at least a little bit easier now though, since I built automatic abort into the nice_delay function any time a button is pressed.

So it’s not a lot of code, but it may take some experimenting to find a good way of dealing with interruptions.

Does anybody know if Andúril has a reset function implemented yet?
(hold the switch while connecting the battery)

Or is this only planed?

Edit:
Not at the moment, maybe in the future

Toykeeper I know what PID is and how it works
But even if I put a pot of water on my hotplate that is 30K above set point it wont start very quick to do a 70% duty cycle its likely starting about 10K above to heat up again,
but your PID even starts to increase current 40 or 50K above set point

I know even before you hit the Temperature ceiling if temp is climbing it is throtteling the output

That Video was made under Lab conditions, the heat up (I know it was way too fast) was in this test totally irrelevant
It was way more interesting what happens when the driver cools down slowly

The fact that the driver is starting to increase current even 30 or 40°C above the temperature set point is causing the heat up bug TA, Matemineco and myself has seen in multiple tets
in the video I could clearly show that it went up to 70% FET duty cycle when the temperature is falling but still 20-25°C above temperature ceiling

.

All what has to be done is keep the PID regulating to Ceiling +5K then disable it for safety reasons till ther light cooled down enough
(current PID model seems not to work so well for flashlights, when its getting hotter than set point, it wents into some sort of oscillation heating up more and more)
instead ramp down current down to MIN_THERM_STEPDOWN and stay at that level till it falls below temp ceiling
This would be sort of “Soft Turbo dropdown” dependant on temperature

Another question is about Lowering the PWM frequency on Moonlight to like 2kHz like you do which code is responsible for that
I would also like that in NarsilM some day

I am currently working on a CC FET driver and I also want to try getting on low levels the PWM to the OPV constantly at this frequency to see if this can be used to dim more
its not working on 15kHz with NarsilM

I have in main.c
#define BLINK_AT_RAMP_FLOOR
#define MOON_TIMING_HINT
enabled but it does not blink Astrolux wants it

I got round to flash Anduril onto my D4S and I think I bricked it.
I just simply copied the command from the first post without reading more about it and now I wish I did…
That’s what I did. Now after pressing the button only aux LEDs blink in low mode.

After this MCU doesn’t respond to anything

Can I still rescue it somehow or do I have to replace ATTiny on the driver?

Forgive me if that’s something obvious but I’m really not too educated on this stuff…

You used totally wrong fuse bits
Only a high voltage flasher may reset the MCU

Doesn’t help if its not flashable anymore you got to replace it

I may send you from Germany a flashed MCU

Best is to carefully unsolder one side leg by leg then folding up a few times to break other side legs

I was gonna say I might be closer and could send you an MCU, but then I realized your in Poland lol.

Sorry, it sucks to brick an MCU. Been there, done that, you’re not alone at least.

You live and learn. Eh…
Could you explain how to do it correctly for the future reference?
Will probably use your offer Lexel and place that long overdue order for couple drivers and get MCU straight away.

Actually how would it work with new ATTiny, do they come preprogrammed or how does one place initial firmware on it?

Excuse stupid questions but have no experience with it.

there are 2 ways of programming
pre solder with a SOIC socket adapter
or past reflow with an SOIC clip pusching on the MCU from above the PCB

indutrially with a pre reflow flashing robot that may be also able to retube/rerail the MCUs after flashing for PCBA machines feeder

Lexel, can you also slightly modify the code of Anduril/Ramping IOS V2 in such a preflashed MCU? With a appropriate remuneration of course.
In Poland it seems almost no one is capable of doing ui flashing related stuff.

I always work with NarsilM and Anduril constantly doing small easy code modification regarding replacing numbers or switching features on or off

But I can not write code itself like changing original code sections

No, not yet. I was trying to find a method which would work for FW3A, but it can’t detect the switch until quite a while after power is connected… and I haven’t added it yet for other lights where it’s easier to do.

So far I only have it on my lightsaber.

Sorry about the bricked MCU. It sucks when that happens… and there’s no easy way to fix it.

Normally, it’s best not to set fuse values at all. Just let them stay as is, and there’s virtually no risk of bricking the MCU. But if you do flash them, I recommend using the bin/flash-*.sh scripts in the firmware repository. They have the correct fuse values; just pick a script which matches your MCU type.

It’s in a few parts of the code — anything which refers to dynamic underclocking. Since it’s a compile-time option, the exact relevant parts of the code are already marked.

Okay, may we see your lightsaber? I wonder if you lean towards the light, or a bit towards the darkness :slight_smile: It seems the darksiders have all the cool toys

I’ve not purchased/ made one yet, but I’m waning. Strangely enough, I feel it’s impractical. Doesn’t do anything more than be a cool thing. Of course I’m also the guy with a bunch of flashlights just sitting on a shelf in my office…



You mean this one?





Here’s a closer look at two sabers I use… green for the good days, purple for the not-so-good days:

The one I’m using a custom driver in, though, is a rainbow saber. It is all colors… sometimes even at the same time.

Good answer! Those are top notch.
Funny, I don’t remember seeing the middle one in the movies though

So, quick question… In the version used on the FW3A, assume ascending ramping… the first buzz in the pattern is 1 full 7135 and the second buzz is 7 full on 7135’s?

When ramping? Are those called buzzes? I think of them as blips, and the buzzes are when the light flutters during config modes.

As for your question, that’s a config option at compile time, but I’m pretty sure the stock firmware the first blip is a helper indicator to let you know you’re at moonlight mode, so absolute bottom of the ramp, barely using 1 7135, and the second blip, which in the default ramp config is also the top of the ramp, is max 7 7135s. I think.

Could be way wrong, but that’s how I understand it