It’s not a problem if they add with the traditional accessories (replacement o-rings, cheap lanyard, etc) a 26100 spacer looking like this to put between the 2 batteries.
Some against this idea will say that you can loose it and I will respond that it is up to anyone to be careful with his stuff. :smiling_imp:
Since it is more a general purpose flashlight (with big hotspot and good spill) and a 70.2 CRI 80 was suggested, why stop here and not go up to CRI 90, 4000°K or 3500°K or 3000°K for people to test the advantage of much lesser back scattered light ?
It doesn’t need complicated marketing to show and explain its benefit instead to praise the same old song of the maximum output.
Love the idea of a 4000K or lower along with SMO reflector and possible ramping. Ramping is not a must but would be a great upgrade. I would buy one or two. Would really like to have the driver once developed with ramping to put in my other SP70’s.
Lux-Perpetua, I notice that you like to use a decimal point in the tint descriptor… the problem with this is that the K is not for thousands but for Kelvin, so your 4.885K actually would mean less than 5 Kelvin and THAT would be atrocious! 4885K is an actual temperature of light that we would like to see, based on the Kelvin temperature scale.
I like to follow this thread but you make it difficult by keeping editing the second and third post. Clicking the “new replies” always brings me to the edited 2nd and 3rd post, and after that I have to search manually for the first new posts in the thread.
Editing the original post does not affect “new replies”, moving the content of #2 and #3 to the OP makes it easier, clicking on the “new replies” then actually gets you to the new replies.
And why wouldn’t a 3V 50.2 work with a boost driver? Smaller die surface area, tighter hot spot, still in the 4000+ lumens range. That could be quite viable….
A lot of Europe uses a punkt for a thousands separator and a komma for decimals - so natively to them, 4.885 is what we’d read as 4,885, and they’d say “3,0GHz CPU” when we’d choose 3.0.
I know it’s definitely the case in Germany Ich spreche nur ein bisschen Deutsch.
In which case you would have to identify thousands as K, and then Kelvin as a second K? So 4.485KK? You can’t assume the period point identifies thousands without the K (thousands) indicator, it leaves to much to the imagination and doesn’t clarify the exact 4885K color temperature. If you were talking 10.5K lumens then yes, that’s fine, but in this case it needs to be more clear.
Ok, additive for the BLF Special edition SP70… I have changed the factory MOSFET to an Vishay-Dale SIR404DP and replaced the leads with 16ga Turnigy. With spring bypasses made by using 20ga Turnigy wires inside the dual springs and by using Samsung 30T 21700’s I am seeing a start value of 10,500 lumens and a 30 second reading of 8700 lumens. I am pretty sure a good AR coated lens would enable more lumens out the front, need to check without the lens to see what may be happening with this clear glass…
Right, and I reckon we all pretty much know that… I tend to stumble on stuff like that because I take things literally, that fine line between black and white, right and wrong. I have never been good at reading between the lines. I got it, after looking at it a few times, so I guess everyone else will too.
If Lux Perpetua ever asks me to build him a light I’ll try to source 4.885 Kelvin emitters….
This lights OP reflector measures 74.3mm opening diameter and 48.4mm deep. This depth to width ratio certainly needs some improvement if a mirror finished reflector is going to be implemented for the BLF light.
Ok, I finally got a reading without the glass… the light with glass lens is making 10,500 lumens at start… without the glass it can do 11,220 lumens. so there is some 720 lumens being lost to the glass. I don’t think this is a huge deal and the glass is pretty good, I would like to see the 1.8mm thickness increase to 3mm though, at these diameters the glass can get broken easier so a thicker glass is warranted, or the use of a really good Acryclic with AR coating.
