TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)

Already have Jason, dozens and dozens of times. I know, Ok? Within the Cree database listings there are only certain options available at a given time to given manufacturers. Remember how much of the time there have been delays because they couldn’t get the power and tint bins we asked for? Only certain combinations of power and tint are available for purchase, this causes issues a lot of the time. The FW3A has two options, at the moment. Because the other choices could not be bought. Does the FW3A now have XHP-70.2 emitters? Relevance, stick to the relevance.

And TA also claims the warm tint throws further but I have pictures that prove otherwise, in a light rain even. He asked friends their opinions based on a very short range, I took pictures at 1.9 miles. So as with all things, yes there are variables. But I have yet to see a triple XP-L with warm tint outperform a triple XP-L with cool tint. And I’ve built a LOT of em. Why do you think I quit accepting warm tints? Any light that comes to me now with a 4 or larger tint number that emitter is in my trash can within minutes of arrival. Literally without even turning it on. If you could see how many emitters I have on hand, how many I’ve removed and trashed, you’d understand.

I just love how the data-sheet people want to argue with the builders. Read all you want, then build em and learn what the data-sheets Didn’t tell you.

LOL HC, yeah yeah yeah. But like he says, variables can make it difficult to predict. I predict the warm white option FW3A will be at least 300 lumens less bright. :wink:

I was only after a rough indication anyway :slight_smile:

It’d be nice for someone with the 7A and a proper calibrated lumen tube to measure theirs in order to help me calibrate my own shoddy homemade lumen tube, but I fear the 7A will be a less popular choice maybe :slight_smile:

So your not contradicting anything I’ve said, good, I think we are in agreement.

I say the chances of the 7A being brighter are small. You say it is even smaller. Agreement. :smiley:

(Assuming same battery is used) Obviously you can make a 7A brighter than a 1A by using different batteries.

FET driven lights make terrible calibration lights because there are too many variables involved.

Jason, he only asked that someone with a properly calibrated light tube take a reading on the 7A FW3A in comparison to the 1A FW3A so he can make a wise purchase decision. :wink:

Fair call. I’ll stick to gazing into the emitters on moonlight mode and going “oooh” then.

Here ya go HC, 18 Samsung LH351D W6 5000K with domes sliced off, in moon mode…

Future FW3A buyers can look forward to the day the Samsungs are available, or mod their new lights. :wink:

Oooh

You could have much more accurate readings if you want.
Maukka sells calibration lights for homemade Lumen Tubes/Integrating Spheres.

As a first approximation, expect 15% less at 3000K compared to the cool white

I’m basing this on what Cree specifies in the datasheet for the best flux bin of each color temperature.

Like DB Custom says, the datasheet doesn’t tell you everything, and even what it does varies. The worst bin of 3000K would rate at 25% less than the best bin listed of any XP-L HI color temperature. The best bin of the 3000K against the worst bin of the cool whites would only be 6% lower output.

Since max output of the FW3A depends on a FET, you can also get significant differences if the forward voltage is different.

awesome review, thanx!

I’ll take it. Do you need my shipping address?

Did shaving make them throwier (is that a word)? How much was the tint shift?

I’ve shaved all the LH351Ds I have, it made them throwier (more throw than a X-PL HD, less than an HI… maybe more throw if you cut very close to the phosphor?), the color temp goes down ~500-1000 degrees and the tint gets rosier depending on how much you slice off. I took off maybe 1/2 of the height of the dome to get the result I wanted.

Tests of them show about 10-15% output loss at most power levels, and I’d say it looks that way to my eyes as well. In the same host at the same current a shaved 4000K got pretty close to the throw of a stock 4000K SST-20 and had a wider beam.

I really need to learn soldering. Sounds exactly where i need it to be

If you’re bold/stupid/have steady hands you could partially shave some lights without removing the MCPCB. Not saying that it’s a good idea or that I would ever do that out of sheer laziness but it’s possible. :wink:

Are there any videos available showing how to change optics on the FW3A?

I haven’t found any, but you’d just have to unscrew the bezel, change the optics and screw it back again.

Received my production FW3A w/ XP-L HI 3D today. Works perfectly, even though I did tighten the driver retaining ring before even turning the light on for the first time. The finish is just slightly lighter and bluer than the proto.

The little protrusion on the clip ring is perfectly fine. It helps with the cigar grip, while the proto with a narrower ring is a bit slippery.

The emitters aren’t rosy for sure, but I’ve noticed that lower CRI emitters don’t look as green as for example CRI90 219Cs with similar duvs. This measured 4600K duv 0.0063 at 1x7135, but visually was alright. Gets closer to BBL on higher modes (8x7135, FET). The fine visual experience is also explained by my current ambient lighting conditions that are even greener (4800K duv 0.0085) because of UV blocking windows and lots of trees outside.

Integrated, the tint is not as bad as in the hotspot. So there is some tint shift in the beam but it’s not very visible to the eye. Output is 139 lumens in the 1x7135 mode.

Nichia 219b sw40 integrated at 1x7135, 83 lumens: