Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

I have another SP70 that should be here either tomorrow (Fri) or Monday so I can check with those cells.

Sooooo I just noticed one cell has a dent on the negative and the nipple pressed in :confused: I’m guessing this is causing the low numbers. I think Jason had this happen awhile back.

I’ll add some solder and report back. If this is the cause I’ll edit my original comment

Oh I’m relieved.

Good luck on it.

Decided not to solder and use a neodymium magnet but that made no difference.

My tracking updated to show my other SP70 is due tomorrow.

One of my cells also has a dented bottom. It’s a consequence of shipping big cells in series. When the box gets dropped or thrown around, the 2 cells slam into each other. I don’t think it would effect it’s performance. My HD cells pull slightly less amperage than my Black Liitokala’s.

As far as lumens, my L6 with Aspire 4300 measured 5500 lumen at turn on (19.6A) and 5250 at 20 seconds (18.4A).

With black Liitokala it measured 5300 lumen at turn on and 5100 at 20 seconds (17.6A).

This is with my Maukka calibrated TA Lumen Tube. I don’t know how some guys get these big lumen numbers.

I’ll try to measure the SP70 lumens tomorrow.

At the end of the day the SP70 is much better than the Convoy L6 so I’m happy. Purchased 7pcs to sell. Don’t think I’ll be getting anymore L6’s now unless Simon changes the UI.

The 30Q’s only achieved 100 more lumens totaling 6000 at 30 sec

Funtastic gained 1000 lumens by adding spring bypasses. That tells me the factory dual springs might be a bit high in resistance.

Yeah
They aren’t using steel springs, but they could be using the “lowest” conductivity BeCu at 22% IACS, which would be limiting the current quite a bit compared to the C17530 alloy that I use at 38% IACS.

I changed the MOSFET and upgraded to 16 ga wires. And bypassed the springs leaving them dual springs.

Doesn’t that make the spring array super stiff that way?

At least resistance isn’t an issue. :slight_smile:

Mate, did you bypass both dual springs or just the single outer springs? I just bypassed the large outer springs

As long as the bypass is in contact with the cell and the other end is on the driver pad that’s all that really matters. I thought about it possibly making the dual stack too stiff but it works with my pair of 30T’s so I can’t complain, figured stiff would be good for 26650’s (which I don’t have a matched pair of at the moment)

Thank you for your reply. That’s exactly what I’ve done so that’s great.

I’m guessing you have the 16 ga wire on the outside of the spring? My 20 ga was hard enough to fit inside

I used 20 ga in the springs, replaced the 18ga leads from the driver to the LED’s with 16ga. :wink:

My 26650s are out for delivery today. Shockli 5500mAh, my favorite cell. Flat-top, so I'll figure something out.

Of all things, the wife is suggesting I keep the non-BLF SP70. Who am I to argue? I figure I'll probably get the BLF Edition too, and then gift this one to a friend in the Air Force. She wanted a copy of my L6, including the lighted button.

I tried looking, but didn't see a pic of the switch PCB. Has anyone had it out yet? I'm planning to swap the LEDs to different colors if possible.

I discovered by reading the Owner’s Manual the Group 1 (Non-ramping) has six brightness levels. The Turbo mode brightness in Group 1 (Non-ramping) is only available by double-clicking the side switch.

The Switch PCB has double SMD emitters on each side, ultra teeny tiny flea like resistors (no idea what value, they’re too small to read if indeed there are numbers on them) But the switch is too bright, for sure, I meant to do something about that and forgot.

Oh, by the way, Sofirn cut a vertical slot across the hole the switch sits in much like we’d do with a file come modding time… Result? You can pull the switch board through the hole through this slot without de-soldering the 4 red wires (yes, all 4 are red)

Nice that they remembered to do this. Until you mentioned it, I completely forgot that I had asked them to do this. Does the switch PCB have the resistor to control the brightness or is the resistor on the driver?

That's good, considering they're all red. I'd screw that up.

I forgot my charger is .5A, so I won't be playing with these today.

Does anyone have recommendations for a charger with good analyzing functionality? Could even be just 1- or 2-bay as I'd only use it for the special functionality.

The tiny resistors are on the board, one on each side.

I used a magic marker to mark one dot, two dots, three dots, four dots on the wires just in case, then took a photo so I’d see where they were positioned on the board. Didn’t need to take them off in the end.

That’s normal with a lot of the Sofirn models