Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

Doesn’t that make the spring array super stiff that way?

At least resistance isn’t an issue. :slight_smile:

Mate, did you bypass both dual springs or just the single outer springs? I just bypassed the large outer springs

As long as the bypass is in contact with the cell and the other end is on the driver pad that’s all that really matters. I thought about it possibly making the dual stack too stiff but it works with my pair of 30T’s so I can’t complain, figured stiff would be good for 26650’s (which I don’t have a matched pair of at the moment)

Thank you for your reply. That’s exactly what I’ve done so that’s great.

I’m guessing you have the 16 ga wire on the outside of the spring? My 20 ga was hard enough to fit inside

I used 20 ga in the springs, replaced the 18ga leads from the driver to the LED’s with 16ga. :wink:

My 26650s are out for delivery today. Shockli 5500mAh, my favorite cell. Flat-top, so I'll figure something out.

Of all things, the wife is suggesting I keep the non-BLF SP70. Who am I to argue? I figure I'll probably get the BLF Edition too, and then gift this one to a friend in the Air Force. She wanted a copy of my L6, including the lighted button.

I tried looking, but didn't see a pic of the switch PCB. Has anyone had it out yet? I'm planning to swap the LEDs to different colors if possible.

I discovered by reading the Owner’s Manual the Group 1 (Non-ramping) has six brightness levels. The Turbo mode brightness in Group 1 (Non-ramping) is only available by double-clicking the side switch.

The Switch PCB has double SMD emitters on each side, ultra teeny tiny flea like resistors (no idea what value, they’re too small to read if indeed there are numbers on them) But the switch is too bright, for sure, I meant to do something about that and forgot.

Oh, by the way, Sofirn cut a vertical slot across the hole the switch sits in much like we’d do with a file come modding time… Result? You can pull the switch board through the hole through this slot without de-soldering the 4 red wires (yes, all 4 are red)

Nice that they remembered to do this. Until you mentioned it, I completely forgot that I had asked them to do this. Does the switch PCB have the resistor to control the brightness or is the resistor on the driver?

That's good, considering they're all red. I'd screw that up.

I forgot my charger is .5A, so I won't be playing with these today.

Does anyone have recommendations for a charger with good analyzing functionality? Could even be just 1- or 2-bay as I'd only use it for the special functionality.

The tiny resistors are on the board, one on each side.

I used a magic marker to mark one dot, two dots, three dots, four dots on the wires just in case, then took a photo so I’d see where they were positioned on the board. Didn’t need to take them off in the end.

That’s normal with a lot of the Sofirn models

My second SP70 arrived today and tested as stock and get 4500 lumens at 30 sec. Put on the bypassed tail of my other SP70 and gained 600 lumens.

The springs they used aren’t very good

They are actually using great springs.

It’s just that they aren’t up to snuff with the type of springs we use here on BLF.

Also, seems like you are getting very low numbers overall.

We’ll see what Jason’s results are as he has the same setup as me.

My numbers were 100 different than Matt’s with the Convoy L6 so it must be near accurate

@PiercingTheDarkness, could you check if the springs are magnetic?
They should not be.

Blue, the springs in my tail cap are magnetic enough that the entire tail cap can swing from a small magnet on the leads of my CottonPickers charger.

My neodymium magnets stick to them

Wait, wait.

These were supposed to be using BeCu springs.

How come Sofirn of all companies did not use AT LEAST a cooper alloy?!

It all makes sense now why Sofirn were beating around the bush.
They told me they were going to use a copper alloy, in the past.
Someone changed something somewhere.

A BLF edition is absolute needed now!

I’m not mad though. Just dissapointed.

I am thankful for this informative thread. I was getting ready to buy some Aspire and/or Golisi S43 26650’s. Based on my trial of the Efest Purple 4200 50/35 26650, EBL 5000 26650, and Sanyo UR18650NSX, there’s no Wow-factor to be gained with use of Golisi or Aspire. Even the “cheap” EBL 26650 is fine and an upgrade to an Orbtronic 5750mAh 26650 button-top for longest runtimes makes more sense, based on my reading this thread and already having compared EBL to Efest and Sanyo batteries, in my Sofirn SP70.