Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.
If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.
Analysis and Solution:
The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.
In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.
Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.
If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.
Analysis and Solution:
The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.
In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.
Thank steel for the additional advice & photos. That step is invaluable to know also……
You and Firelight2 have save people a ton of annoyances by your postings!
If they will only read them that is…. . .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.
Thanks for posting about this and including pictures!
That confirms the driver isn’t glued, and it also confirms the driver fit issue is completely fixed.
Also, if someone doesn’t know there’s a notch in the driver, it can be easy to miss… and then it’ll be confusing to figure out why the light doesn’t fit together quite right.
One of my 2 FW3A is not tightened.
This ring is very thin and the structure may not be very strong.
Maybe bring the retaining ring out when disassembling the battery.
But the chances should be small. Because it is not easy to disassemble.
Some retaining rings may have Burr.
You can take it off and trim it, or grind it with sandpaper. (Observant)
I was hoping somebody would run 3xXHP50.2 3V in there But I haven’t seen any triple MCPCBs that would fit.
The end result would probably be a hot light after 2 seconds.
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..
That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.
If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..
That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.
If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?
There is a firmware sub-version in her repository for anyone who wants to be conservative with the 219B. It limits the FET channel to 50%. It is also possible to create your own firmware version with different ramp levels.
Because the red XP-E2 has a low forward voltage (and the photo red and far red even lower still), it is probably advisable to avoid FET use entirely unless you’re willing to risk killing a set.
On the other hand, the red and green XP-E2’s seem to have fairly high foward voltages and might work ok with FETs.
Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.
If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.
Analysis and Solution:
The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.
Thank you for providing this information. Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..
That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.
If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?
Remove the FET then add more 7135’s for your desired current.
I wasn’t so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube won’t make contact at both ends.
I wasn’t so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube won’t make contact at both ends.
Well I’m not concerned in the least…. just throwing suggestions out there, you don’t know unless you try, thats what modding is all about, if it don’t work, fall back, regroup and attack, repeat…
Personally I like the light just as it is, well these 2×3D FW3A’s I got, no modding needed, but the next 2 warm yuck yellow FW3A’s will be subjected to all kinds of ……fun!
. If you run out of room, maybe a contact on the cap end?
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.[/quote]
•
•
•
can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
•
•
•
can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.
Yes.
The retaining ring uses the same threads that the battery tube uses to screw into the head. So yes… turn clockwise to tighten.
Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
Thanks, TK. I was just concerned about tightening enough so that it doesn’t loosen later on. I have a cheap pair of split ring pliers that is a little soft—the tips can bend—and I’m just waiting to spot a good deal on a new pair.
What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:
!!
Picture credit to JasonWW
The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.
______________________________________
When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.
_______________________________________
It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.
!!
_________________________________________
Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?
!!
_________________________________________
And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.
!!
I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.
—
Woke up to this one day…
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
Best to just leave the tailcap alone, don’t take it off. Insert the battery from the head.
There’s a warning in the box, stating this.
—
Woke up to this one day…
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
Standard procedure for any new flashlight is to make sure all threaded parts are tight. Things tend to loosen during shipping
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
its not the shipping its the boss telling their worker: “assemble faster or you get fired”
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Most likely….
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I also encountered the same problem.
Sorry for my poor english.
In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.
Sorry for my poor english.
You and Firelight2 have save people a ton of annoyances by your postings!
If they will only read them that is….
. 
. 
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Thanks for posting about this and including pictures!
That confirms the driver isn’t glued, and it also confirms the driver fit issue is completely fixed.
Also, if someone doesn’t know there’s a notch in the driver, it can be easy to miss… and then it’ll be confusing to figure out why the light doesn’t fit together quite right.
How the heck is she supposed to catch up on new YouTube videos, sip her coffee and discuss the latest Game of Thrones episode? Wow!
A big thanks for troubleshooting the retaining ring and pointing out that notch. I’ll check mine when it arrives.
One of my 2 FW3A is not tightened.
This ring is very thin and the structure may not be very strong.
Maybe bring the retaining ring out when disassembling the battery.
But the chances should be small. Because it is not easy to disassemble.
Some retaining rings may have Burr.
You can take it off and trim it, or grind it with sandpaper. (Observant)
Sorry for my poor english.
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I was hoping somebody would run 3xXHP50.2 3V in there
But I haven’t seen any triple MCPCBs that would fit.
The end result would probably be a hot light after 2 seconds.
Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Will the UI work with a removed fet?
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)
I don’t know on this FW3A, but I have blown FET’s on FET+1 7135 drivers and the lower modes still worked……..
Take one for science…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.
If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?
There is a firmware sub-version in her repository for anyone who wants to be conservative with the 219B. It limits the FET channel to 50%. It is also possible to create your own firmware version with different ramp levels.
Because the red XP-E2 has a low forward voltage (and the photo red and far red even lower still), it is probably advisable to avoid FET use entirely unless you’re willing to risk killing a set.
On the other hand, the red and green XP-E2’s seem to have fairly high foward voltages and might work ok with FETs.
Source – XP-E2 datasheet, plus DJozz tests:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32452
Thank you for providing this information. Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.
Remove the FET then add more 7135’s for your desired current.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Is there room to add more 7135s? I’m not sure there’s enough room to stack them.
There is room to stack them, might have to add a taller spring….maybe, or use a button top?
. I just sat a 7135 on top at 3 O’clock
.
. Where there is a will there is a way….
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I wasn’t so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube won’t make contact at both ends.
Well I’m not concerned in the least…. just throwing suggestions out there, you don’t know unless you try, thats what modding is all about, if it don’t work, fall back, regroup and attack, repeat… Personally I like the light just as it is, well these 2×3D FW3A’s I got, no modding needed, but the next 2 warm yuck yellow FW3A’s will be subjected to all kinds of ……fun!
. If you run out of room, maybe a contact on the cap end?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.[/quote]
•
•
•
can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.
Yes.
The retaining ring uses the same threads that the battery tube uses to screw into the head. So yes… turn clockwise to tighten.
Thanks, TK. I was just concerned about tightening enough so that it doesn’t loosen later on. I have a cheap pair of split ring pliers that is a little soft—the tips can bend—and I’m just waiting to spot a good deal on a new pair.
What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:
!
!
Picture credit to JasonWW
The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.
______________________________________
When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.
_______________________________________
It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.
!
!
_________________________________________
Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?
!
!
_________________________________________
And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.
!
!
I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.
Woke up to this one day…
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
I wonder if a large-ish drop of super glue (or similar) on the rubber insulator/seal would work to replace a fugitive nubbin?
Super glue usually does not stick well to rubber. Goop works well with both plastic and rubber.
Best to just leave the tailcap alone, don’t take it off. Insert the battery from the head.
There’s a warning in the box, stating this.
Woke up to this one day…
Good morning OCF&BD,
I’ve created a new disorder for you. OCF&BD
Obsessive Compulsive Flashlight & Battery Disorder – and of course, there is no known cure, because you keep recharging yourself.
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