that would be an option, jupp
By the way: Is there a âshipping proges page?â I am #30xx and would like to know, when I could âroughlyâ expect shippingâŚ
But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.
The spring of the novatac is working the same as the inner tube of the FW3A, but with time if the spring wears off, it wonât be a problem due to its adaptable length.
I think that is the thinnest retaining ring I have ever seen. When I first went to check mine for tightness I didnât even see it & thought⌠âoh crap, itâs glued after allâ. :person_facepalming:
But after closer inspection, there it was. Both of mine were tight btw. :+1:
I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.
Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting!
At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm
At the 7135 x 7 + 1 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm briefly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.
Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.
I tried to measure the current draw but I couldnât get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?
EDIT: The internal temperature was reading 36°C when it should have been 24°C. I reset it and Turbo lasted 15 seconds before stepdown.