FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Yes, nice photos.

It sure is & those are great pictures too!! :+1:

M4D M4X
great video and great photos :+1:

copper would require an additional insulator because it cannot be anodized to be an Isolator as Aluminium.

the inner tube can still be used on other materials I think?

that would be an option, jupp
By the way: Is there a “shipping proges page?” I am #30xx and would like to know, when I could “roughly” expect shipping…

pls PM me the order number

Why not run a wire inside the tube rather than a inner tube? Just wondering.

How would you connect the wire ends to the driver and switch when they all rotate independently? Seems pretty tricky.

There’s my answer looking me in the face. I guess I didn’t think it through . :frowning:

Bead blasted titanium gets my vote. Other aluminium colours could also be tempting.

…Or silver / clear version?… runs and hides… Only kidding, I don’t like these as they can’t be hard locked out.

But not impossible.
HDS is using a wire with a rotating head and a fixed MCPCB for the button, Novatac is using a spring with a rotating head and rotating button.
The end of the tube on the driver side of the HDS is anodized, the trace on the MCPCB is for the end of the wire.

Interesting design, thanks for sharing Tally-ho. :+1:

The spring of the novatac is working the same as the inner tube of the FW3A, but with time if the spring wears off, it won’t be a problem due to its adaptable length.

I think that is the thinnest retaining ring I have ever seen. When I first went to check mine for tightness I didn’t even see it & thought… “oh crap, it’s glued after all”. :person_facepalming:

But after closer inspection, there it was. Both of mine were tight btw. :+1:

Innovation & adaptability…. I love it!!
This would make a good ‘ToyKeeper video’ btw. :+1: . :wink:

I took some measurements of my 3D version FW3A. I used my Texas_Ace Lumen Tube with a Maukka calibration light. I used a button top 30Q.

Turbo at Turn on saw 3300 lm which went to 2800 lm at 12 seconds then it stepped down. More than I was expecting! :partying_face:

At the 7135 x 1 level I got 132 lm

At the 7135 x 7 + 1 level (top of ramp) I got 1000 lm briefly, but I would say 950-970 lm is about normal and it dropped slowly. At about 30 seconds it was at 800 lm.

Parasitic drain measured an excellent 23 microamps with no sleep delay.

I tried to measure the current draw but I couldn’t get the switch activated with my clamp style and meter. I tried touching an extra wire to the middle tube, but got no response. Any recommendations on how I can measure this?

EDIT: The internal temperature was reading 36°C when it should have been 24°C. I reset it and Turbo lasted 15 seconds before stepdown.

thanks for the data, this is a very interesting light indeed. Is the stepdown after 12 seconds time based or temperature based? 12s seems very quick to heat up? Is it really that hot after a few seconds?

Thanks.

There is no timed stepdown in Anduril (I’m pretty sure). It’s all temperature related and it gets hot quick! Like Toykeeper has been saying, Turbo is really just a short “burst” mode. It does not last long at all.

Damn near exactly what I measured on my T/A Maukka light tube…3360 with 30Q flat top and a VTC5a…which is close to the Max for a V2 XP-L HI thru optics and lens, the most I have ever seen was around 1250lms. in reflector lights. I like the 3D (nothing warmer though…)