Any thoughts related to shipping for ordering only the light vs the light+battery?
Since you canāt ship batteries by normal slow services, would shipping be faster if I order with batteries?
(I was going to place 2 orders, one for the light then one for some batteries. My intention was to prevent being out the lump of money while waiting for the light to come in stock and get the batteries before the light)
Yeah, the price for that gasket is a bit ridiculous.
You can get a 1kg spool of GITD filament for 20-40$. Time is the real cost obviously but thatās a tiny piece.
Letās see, whatās the volume of that thingā¦multiply by this, carry to three, deduct thatā¦uhm fuck all is the answer.
In case youāre wondering, weāre talking about less than half a cubic centimeter.
So a spool would net you, idk, 1500pcs or more.
I got curious how much material it would take and how long it would take soā¦
ā¦I slapped together a representative model of that thing (~20x20x3mm with appropriate holes) and fed it to Cura.
Looks like you could print 56 of them at a time in an Ultimaker 3 and Cura estimates it would take a hair over 3 hours with the default āFastā profile while using a whopping 32g of material (generic PLA AA 0.8).
And thatās at 0.2mm layer height, with a part like this I would bump it to 0.3mm layer height and have it only take ~2hrs15mins. Or roughly ~2Ā½ minutes a piece.
Dropping the thickness to 2.5mm means it would take only 1hr50mins and use 26g of material.
Sure you can tune it further to save even more time but thatās fast enough.
There are 3D printing factories in China with a room full of printers so you could have a load of these made in no time at all.
Just for the giggles I looked on 3dhubs, punching in Shenzhen and some factory would charge ~800 USD for 999pcs and you could get them by next tuesday.
If some chinese flashlight company would do the ordering, handling, storage, shipping side of things, how much would they charge?
Could they do it for 5$ a piece incl. slow boat shipping?
On the other hand, Neal might be a few steps ahead of us. *checks his store just in case. Oh well letās hope that FW3A pic is a sign of things to come!
For my Emisar D4, I just cut two small strips of GITD tape and put in under the optics in the shape of an X. Seems to work fine. I like the aux led of the D4S. I wish the FW3A had an aux led. GITD doesnāt last all that long.
The glow tape isnāt that green under normal lighting, its usually an āoff-whiteā when Iāve seen it, just like watch lume.
I doubt it would change the tint much, especially when its placed under the business end of the optics where not very much light should be shining at it.
Iām having a slight issue with my light and I canāt seem to figure it out. For some reason, while Iām ramping up in the smooth ramp mode, sometimes it will just abruptly stop and shut completely off. Anyone got any ideas what Iām doing wrong? Hereās a video of what itās doing https://giphy.com/gifs/ekvkxmNAyZY6Wk4AVW
I mentioned that not even Neal knows because of a message he sent me yesterday. Iād rather not go into detail, but itās definitely not certain yet.
Now Iām tempted to sandpaper and polish a FW3A. Itād make the flat areas and high spots shiny silver while leaving darker ano color in the low areas.
But itād look better if it had started with black anodizing. More contrast.