For my Emisar D4, I just cut two small strips of GITD tape and put in under the optics in the shape of an X. Seems to work fine. I like the aux led of the D4S. I wish the FW3A had an aux led. GITD doesnāt last all that long.
The glow tape isnāt that green under normal lighting, its usually an āoff-whiteā when Iāve seen it, just like watch lume.
I doubt it would change the tint much, especially when its placed under the business end of the optics where not very much light should be shining at it.
Iām having a slight issue with my light and I canāt seem to figure it out. For some reason, while Iām ramping up in the smooth ramp mode, sometimes it will just abruptly stop and shut completely off. Anyone got any ideas what Iām doing wrong? Hereās a video of what itās doing https://giphy.com/gifs/ekvkxmNAyZY6Wk4AVW
I mentioned that not even Neal knows because of a message he sent me yesterday. Iād rather not go into detail, but itās definitely not certain yet.
Now Iām tempted to sandpaper and polish a FW3A. Itād make the flat areas and high spots shiny silver while leaving darker ano color in the low areas.
But itād look better if it had started with black anodizing. More contrast.
Thatās the main symptom of a switch tube contact issue. I havenāt seen it happen on my production sample, but I know the issue well from seeing it on earlier prototypes.
Loosen the tail a bit, loosen the head, then tighten the tail as much as you can, then tighten the head. The issue should go away.
If the issue returns, loosen the head, tighten the tail again as much as you can, then tighten the head. Try to keep the tail as tight as possible. And always tighten it tail-first.
Yes, but feeling certain isnāt the same thing as having accurate information. Thereās a reason why there are so many adages and quotes about certainty, like counting chickens before they hatch.
How about a dab of quality rubber cement for the nub?
It will remain flexible as opposed to the rigidity of cured superglue.
A dot under the nub, and a thin smear over the sides and surface would create a cocoon for that little nub to live in for good.
Hmm, looks like I could fit about 57 20mm cylinders on my build plate, perhaps more if I crowd them in manually.
Estimated time of around 3 hours per plate.
My filament supplier has gitd on hand, I could pick it up tomorrow.
But on the other hand, PLA has a lower melting point than silicone, I was able to soften the top of a broken print with my D4 in around a minute.
This could melt inside of a light.