My light is on it’s way, traveling by Yodel, which is always fun
From the pictures I have seen, for a single central vial install it looks like the centre nub in the steel cover can be ground down/ slotted, a hole or slot into that with a 6mm x 1.5mm trit & UV glue and then some playing around with the nub on the rubber switch boot. Maybe also use a thinner vial there.
Or as you say three trits in a triangle shape etc would look really nice too.
This is not going to be about mods or anything… it is just going to be a listing of simple things that TK can put a link to in the FW3A Thread OP… according to her…. IIUC.
I know …. Yodel! same here!
I’m kinda surprised someone on here doesn’t sort of mass produce some trit switches for this, once programmed the time and cost would be minimal - next to no materials either and the milling would take a matter of minutes. I could make some on the lathe, but no milling option sadly.
I hear you actually…. I wish it could ’somehow’ be us two at the end, 1 & 2.
I would honestly be good with either being 1.
As long as they both “showed up” & played that is. I couldn’t take a repeat of last year on our part at the end… :cry: . :person_facepalming: . :person_facepalming: …
RTR & GT
It’s one of those things new users should know, along with “open the front, not the back”. It works a lot better after it’s calibrated, and it only needs to be done once.
Check… I made mention of the Thermal Calibration in the OP, directing users to the detailed explanation on page #11 of the FW3A User Manual. I can’t explain it any clearer than that.
I looked for the FW3A User Manual too, so as to add a link to it; but I can’t find it if there is one. If you or anyone knows of one, direct me to it and I’ll certainly add a link to it. :+1: