Check… I made mention of the Thermal Calibration in the OP, directing users to the detailed explanation on page #11 of the FW3A User Manual. I can’t explain it any clearer than that.
I looked for the FW3A User Manual too, so as to add a link to it; but I can’t find it if there is one. If you or anyone knows of one, direct me to it and I’ll certainly add a link to it. :+1:
The thermal config is the first thing you should do with every FW3A since they aren’t calibrated at the factory and have a very low default limit set. The two lights I’ve tested so far both throttled down to the bare minimum 1x7135 level (about 135 lumens) because they thought room temperature was too high.
I already have 3 LH351D here to replace the original leds. Now i want to order a new optic.
I want thelight to be as floody as possible. Will the Carlclo 10509 also fit the LH351D?
I put some diffuser film on The 3D FW3A Because I was curious if I could change the tint a little and clean up the beam .I used something other than film with adhesive .Cut it pretty close to perfect and slipped it between the O-ring and the bezel .Just thinking that it would be a temporary thing. Odds are I'll just leave it as is since it cleaned up the beam and knocked out some tint shifting .Without the big machine who knows. Only problem I see is the 3D tint FW3A has low enough CRI that you can actually notice how bad it really is .For me it just feels like there's "something missing " Kind of like you're hungry and don't know what you want .The tint isn't the issue.
I'm looking forward to the second round of FW3A's before I start tearing into them to fix cri.
One thing really good about this — it has helped curtail buying more flashlights. The Anduril UI has spoiled me. Bistro looks good, as it’s also a TK creation… but I prefer the Anduril menu. Also, the FW3A form factor is really great. HDS/NovaTac were really onto something back in the early 2000’s.
I like how it shows what’s happening on the UI diagram. It seems like that could really help people understand better.
However, it didn’t actually show how to change any settings. The light in the video had a badly calibrated temperature sensor, so it would have been a great opportunity to show how to fix that… but it didn’t. And the light won’t really work right when the sensor is so far off.