OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

I put 3 in a 18650 C8F with FET driver. It works with even my highest drain batteries.

Any quick focusing tip for a CSLNM1.TG (1mm²) in a C8? I plan on using either a 5050 or a 3535 gasket, carefully glued surrounding the emitter. Should I file the gasket for the reflector to sit deeper?

Thanks.

:-)

With a 3535 gasket it will self centre when the reflector rotates as you fasten the bezel… But that’s if you have the reflector with the 7mm bottom hole. Sanding it down a tiny bit helps. My C8+ with CSLNM1.TG outperforms a stock L2 easily!

Stock gasket will be too thick. Around 0,6mm high is a good starting point for optimal focus

I don’t think your light has direct drive, according to Eagtac’s website it has a C3300 driver which in my experience with Eagtac lights means 3.3amps max, and if you look at the figures on the same page Eagtac specify 1284 LED lumens for the triple XP-G2 S3 CW which would back up the 3.3amp idea.

They also specify:

LED circuit
C3300 Extreme3

- Synchronous buck w/ efficiency of up to 95%

  • Non-dimming constant current regulation for all output levels without flicking

so you should still get 3.3amps to the triple NM1s, or 1.1amps to each NM1 which is well within their capabilities. So I think the lower VF means you’ll get more runtime, not more power.

My reflector indeed has ∅7mm bottom hole, KevinZA1988. But, as I said previously, I'd better glue the gasket.

With my cheap 0.1mm precision digital caliper I am measuring my gaskets at 1.6mm total height, of which 0.7mm is base thickness and 0.9mm of reflector hole fitting cylinder. All figures ±0.05mm I guess.

If I am not mistaken what this means is I am advised to reduce my gasket's height 0.1 or 0.2mm, doesn't it?

@ Marc E

My M30LC2C is already modded, it has a FET only driver and 3x XPL-HI. Beam is nice without a defined hotspot but a smooth transition between the two, throw is much better than the C8F and close to a single XPL HI in a C8. As usual eagletac reflectors have perfect finish and no visible Coronas or artifacts so I think it should play nicely with the white flat. I plan to upgrade the driver to a Lexel TA, Aiming for around 160kcd and 2,000lm.

You could do that and get a good result, but personally I’m always actually checking the beam at low current (I usually clip my led tester at 50mA to the driver spring and body, and hold the loose reflector over the led+gasket) before I decide that focus is correct, and if not correct I adjust the gasket height.

You can work on the gasket, checking with reflector after each change, even with the bare board outside the flashlight, as long as you can clip a led tester to the board, i.e. you van temporarily solder some ledwires to the board for the connection.

I have learned over time that patiently taking time getting the gasket right is very much worth the trouble, despite how insignificant that little plastic thingy looks like.

When I say correct focus, I mean that I check for each configuration @10m with my luxmeter.
It’s long, but in the end you know what you have

Wellp, I'm no expert in this but, according to this advice from master djozz, should I file the gasket as low as possible? I think someone said somewhere he was sitting the reflector right over the led board for White Flats, using polyimide film for insulating purposes. I also have polyimide film but I'd prefer to leave some centering stuff for peace of mind in case some muggle unscrews the bezel and loosens the reflector.

I don't even know how to make a photograph of the beam right now, that would help doesn't it? This stuff:

Do I need to generate some good deal of smoke to attain this?

:-)

I wasn’t quite the master in centering leds when I wrote that in 2014 :confounded: and am still learning.

You are Master Djozz! I learned a lot from you :+1: :beer:

Barkuti, what if you just use plastic reflector without any gaskets? :sunglasses:

I like the smell of burnt plastic too

Plastic gaskets can melt too. In all my >4Amps flashlights I have to use pliers to remove gaskets which sticked to the board after some longer time. Maybe I am using some bad gaskets. Or can add some thin ptfe tape under to avoid sticking the reflector.

Gaskets would best be made from electrically insulative materials that are somewhat hard and have a maximum continuous service temperature of around 150°C or greater such as PEI, G7, G11, etc. Acetal is only rated for 105°C or so.

I’ve never had a white one melt but I have had 2 black ones melt

That picture was made by me :smiley:
My wife was cooking a lot in winter and everything closed in the house. I made this picture very close to the kitchen :wink:
For centering rings in C8 I usually sand down the gaskets. It is not true they are self centering themselves on a white flat led. If the MCPCB is not in perfect center it will be no good. Also reflector can move sideways a little while tightening down. I used to shine to the ceiling while tightening the bezel last few turns and smack a little the side of the head and every time I just tightening a little and then smack again if the spot is not perfect.

I’ve only been able to fins centring gaskets for the white flat at Mountain Electronics and Intl-Outdoor. Does anybody else sell them?

it would be nice if someone can make some custom centering gaskets.
i am interesting to buy one for my KD 86mm reflector (19.5mm)