FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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djozz
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Just wait for the SST-20 version, you can use the same code and it will be cheaper too.

Geese
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Quick question. Have all off these been shipped? I ordered one of each version available on April 28 and still haven’t seen an email from Neal on tracking. My order was confirmed just haven’t got any emails after that.

flightless22
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Geese wrote:
Quick question. Have all off these been shipped? I ordered one of each version available on April 28 and still haven’t seen an email from Neal on tracking. My order was confirmed just haven’t got any emails after that.

I ordered on the 28th and haven’t got any further notices either. 7A was delayed, so that might be the hold up.

PBWilson
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I received my FW3A yesterday and the tracking number never worked or told me anything. I wonder if some are on the way despite what the tracking might or might not show.

I love the size, the feel of the switch, the possibilities of being modded with relative ease and the UI. Gotta get more knowledgeable on the UI to utilize the different fun features. I’ve got a handful of optics that I might swap in and out tonight to compare the differences. I’ve lot track of which one corresponds to which specific model, but I oughta check with my past orders from Mtn. to see just what I bought and try to figure them out.

The color of mine is much more blue than I thought it would be. I like it well enough. Not sure if I’ll do anything to mod it. I’ve got to dig out my Convoy blue/gray light and see how similar they are to one another.

Once again, it looks to be a fantastic light and one that I’ll carry often.

Helios azimuth
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Geese wrote:
Quick question. Have all off these been shipped? I ordered one of each version available on April 28 and still haven’t seen an email from Neal on tracking. My order was confirmed just haven’t got any emails after that.

If you go tohttps://www.nealsgadgets.com/and create an account, then when you sign into that account you will see the “fulfillment status.” Many of us are still Unfulfilled. This means Not shipped yet and has nothing to do with your personal life (unless Neal knows more than we are aware of. LOL.

JasonWW
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Geese wrote:
Quick question. Have all off these been shipped? I ordered one of each version available on April 28 and still haven’t seen an email from Neal on tracking. My order was confirmed just haven’t got any emails after that.

What do you mean by all? All 2,000+? Only a few hundred have shipped. So definitely not all.

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Geese
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Thanks for the update. I will continue to wait.

Yosue
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raccoon city wrote:

Yosue wrote:
teacher wrote:

Yeah… that’s steep. Wonder if they would ship free if added to the package of a light that did?

yes sir. I just added one yellow (green) with a fw3a

If I like my FW3A, maybe I’ll order a second one along with a yellow GITD gasket.  alt=:" />


(Free shipping makes the deal all the more sweeter.)

And do you doubt that this flashlight will like you? How come? Party

Yosue
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teacher wrote:
Yosue wrote:
teacher wrote:
Yeah… that’s steep. Wonder if they would ship free if added to the package of a light that did?
yes sir. I just added one yellow (green) with a fw3a
Thank you for that info. Thumbs Up

You’re welcome
cannesahs
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I have few questions & feedback after playing a bit with my FW3A

1) Why final version got this badly fitting clip design? Its mouting ring around body protrudes beyond the body of FW3A feeling really annoying in hand and in pocket. See post #8523 for photos.

2) Why muggle mode steps down to bottom of muggle ramp? It seems to happen from every higher muggle ramp power – the higher the faster. You can ramp back to higher or switch off and back on to get back to higher muggle ramp power. Battery has plenty of voltage: works fine without stepping down in non-muggle-mode. And thw FW3A stays cold.

3) What is official CRI of used 3D tint?

4) 3D tint color and beam shape is really awesome! I can only wish same would be available at 90+ CRI.

5) Shape and size of FW3A is really good after removing pocket clip (see point 1).

6) This is really a quick nut roaster at turbo. Mainly as weight is so low. I like it Smile

7) Thank you everyone who worked to get this done!

TLDR; Change the clip design and fix fw bug(?)?

Streamtronics
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Now I wish I could cancel my order just to add one of those awesome glow gaskets…
I thought shipping from china was mostly substituted anyway? How do sellers on e. g. ebay manage to offer free shipping for items that are only like 1-2 USD, but a small, lightweight 15 USD item costs 5 USD shipping? I do realize we’re all spoiled with free worldwide shipping, but I can’t keep myself from making that comparison to other sellers…

Johm
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@cannesahs

The CRI of the XPL-HI is 70.

Can you please add a bug report in this thread

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66960

see port number 3 for format/instructions.

teacher
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cannesahs wrote:
I have few questions & feedback after playing a bit with my FW3A

1) Why final version got this badly fitting clip design? Its mouting ring around body protrudes beyond the body of FW3A feeling really annoying in hand and in pocket. See post #8523 for photos.

2) Why muggle mode steps down to bottom of muggle ramp? It seems to happen from every higher muggle ramp power – the higher the faster. You can ramp back to higher or switch off and back on to get back to higher muggle ramp power. Battery has plenty of voltage: works fine without stepping down in non-muggle-mode. And thw FW3A stays cold.

3) What is official CRI of used 3D tint?

4) 3D tint color and beam shape is really awesome! I can only wish same would be available at 90+ CRI.

5) Shape and size of FW3A is really good after removing pocket clip (see point 1).

6) This is really a quick nut roaster at turbo. Mainly as weight is so low. I like it Smile

7) Thank you everyone who worked to get this done!

TLDR; Change the clip design and fix fw bug(?)?

1. Unknown as to reason. A matter of increased strength was suggested by someone. Annoying to you?? OK, to each their own. Thumbs Up . Personally, it is a non issue to me.

2. I do not know. EDIT: See Answer HERE

3. 70+ (Medium CRI)

4. I agree, it is awesome. Thumbs Up

5. Shape of the FW3A is fantastic. Thumbs Up . With or without clip is personal preference.

6. Yep.. Big Smile

7. Amen!! Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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ttylamg
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Can you run 2× 16340 in short duration for more output?

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korkfoto
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Neal wrote:

sorry,the courier delay
I will contact them tomorrow

Thank you, Neal!

FIAT LUX!

alex64
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cannesahs wrote:
2) Why muggle mode steps down to bottom of muggle ramp? It seems to happen from every higher muggle ramp power – the higher the faster. You can ramp back to higher or switch off and back on to get back to higher muggle ramp power. Battery has plenty of voltage: works fine without stepping down in non-muggle-mode. And thw FW3A stays cold.

This “problem” it happens in my two Fireflies E07 with Anduril, so it’s due to the design of Anduril and not the FW3A.

mortuus
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ttylamg wrote:
Can you run 2× 16340 in short duration for more output?

no, only 1 × 18650 and 2 of those batteries wouldnt produce more output anyways.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

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Yeah.

And you’d be killing everything inside of the light.

And you’d be getting less capacity.
And you’d actually lose output even if it worked.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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teacher wrote:
3. 70+ (Medium CRI)

The average value can be considered as medium but in details, colors rendition are pretty mediocre : see Bob_McBob’s measurements *here*.
The black circle is the reference light, the red circle is for the XP-L HI 3D. The more the point drifts within the circle, the more the colors are desaturated in the corresponding region. The more the arrow drifts from the perpendicular to the edge of the circle (on the left or on the right), the more the hue drifts from the reference point.
See local chroma shift graph and local hue shift graph.
Omega_17
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I read on reddit and here that there will be a copper version coming in the future, is this speculation or confirmed?

clip.
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Neal wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Now that I have my aluminum FW3As, I find myself wanting one in polished titanium Love

OK
will talk about this, also copper

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Omega_17 wrote:
I read on reddit and here that there will be a copper version coming in the future, is this speculation or confirmed?

Copper and Titanium

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Omega_17
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Just like the D4ti, nice.

moridin
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JasonWW wrote:
Nev wrote:
moridin wrote:
Does anyone know, if the emitters (XP-L Hi 3D) are sold separately?
Yes & no , if you buy a FW3 you get 3 ,XPLHI 3D emitters free Party
Too expensive.

Yeah, i was hoping for a less expensive solution Wink

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This should probably be in every FAQ, just after the part where it tells people to put the battery in from the front instead of the back. It seems to be one of the main things people don’t know, but should.

cannesahs wrote:
2) Why muggle mode steps down to bottom of muggle ramp? It seems to happen from every higher muggle ramp power – the higher the faster. You can ramp back to higher or switch off and back on to get back to higher muggle ramp power. Battery has plenty of voltage: works fine without stepping down in non-muggle-mode. And thw FW3A stays cold.
alex64 wrote:
This “problem” it happens in my two Fireflies E07 with Anduril, so it’s due to the design of Anduril and not the FW3A.

If muggle mode steps down, you need to calibrate the temperature sensor.

This only needs to be done once, when the light is new. Afterward, the value is saved permanently so there should not be a need to do it ever again.

The sensor is built in to the attiny85 chip, and the attiny factory does not calibrate it. The flashlight factory does not calibrate it either. This, unfortunately, leaves that job to the user. If it is not calibrated, it will have no idea what the temperature is. It could be off by as much as 25 C.

To calibrate it:

  1. Let the light settle to room temperature.
  2. Go to the thermal config mode.
  3. At the first menu option, while the light flickers and waits for input, click to enter the current room temperature. This is typically about 20 to 25 C, meaning 20 to 25 clicks.
  4. Wait until the light falls out of the menu.

On this version of Anduril, here’s how to get to thermal config mode:

  1. From off, click 3 times. This goes to battery check mode.
  2. Click twice. This goes to sunset mode.
  3. Click twice. This goes to beacon mode.
  4. Click twice. This goes to temperature check mode.
  5. If you feel like it, let the light blink out what it thinks is the current temperature. On a new light, this number is probably wrong. Have a laugh.
  6. Click 4 times to reach thermal config.

This is also shown in the UI diagram. Follow the pink line:

On newer versions, I’ve also added a shortcut to this, using ten clicks from off. But that’s a very recent thing, and isn’t on the FW3A yet.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
On newer versions, I’ve also added a shortcut to this, using ten clicks from off. But that’s a very recent thing, and isn’t on the FW3A yet.

Based on experience, muggles (i.e., kids) tend to like to click things a lot. They could very easily do 10 clicks in a row, then who knows what to the thermal setting.

Maybe this is already the case, but perhaps don’t allow users to enter configuration settings if in muggle mode. I’m guessing you already did that, but just in case…

Without the 10 clicks, it’s not so important. It seems difficult to get into thermal config by accident.

saypat
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To calibrate it:

  1. Let the light settle to room temperature.
  2. Go to the thermal config mode.
  3. At the first menu option, while the light flickers and waits for input, click to enter the current room temperature. This is typically about 20 to 25 C, meaning 20 to 25 clicks.
  4. Wait until the light falls out of the menu.

    • thank you for the simple explanation here. Could you please explain in simplicity part 2, the temperature limit thing? Thank you from us who find this rather confusing … even after watching M4DM4X video of it Wink
teacher
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@ Saypat

Here you go, in detail…. Temperature Calibration & Setting Temperature Limit

Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

saypat
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thank you kindly teacher, appreciate your help….

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My FW3A arrived on Saturday, but I was away—just picked it up out of the mailbox. It wasn’t functioning right out of the box. It would not stay on. I discovered that the tail cap wasn’t fully seated (per the instructions I had inserted the battery by removing the head — hadn’t touched the tail). After tightening it, it worked initially, but would “wink out” on max. Apparently the seating wasn’t quite complete, so I loosened the tail cap then tightened it again. After that, it started working OK.

Overall, seems like a terrific light. Has that HDS form factor with superior UI. Can’t get over how it’s only a few millimeters taller than an Astrolux S43 with 18350 battery tube, while the FW3A uses an 18650. Truly remarkable. Glad I got this and thanks to the FW3A team & Neal for the wonderful Group Buy opportunity!

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