Good point. I don’t wear caps, but for those that do :+1:
I’ve always preferred bezel down carry, and actually never have used a bezel-up clip. But with the FW3A’s lack of a deep carry clip plus the sensitive, lightly recessed, and large switch often results in accidental activation (without my knowledge mostly). Lockout works, but 5 clicks to turn on the light all the time hasn’t won me over yet. I either always forget to lock it out or when I do then I’m surprised that it isn’t turning on.That’s not to say I’m unhappy with it, as I’m still adapting to the UI and ergonomics.
My thoughts on bezel-up here is that I think the switch might actually be safer from accidental activation inside my pocket (definitely debatable) and if/when it does happen, I can see that it happened quickly. Ergo is a wash for me, either way is fine. Downsides (pun?) are the your lens/optic is exposed and that the direction of the body taper would be reversed relative to the clip.
I found that the muggle mode makes the FW3A very safe in my pocket, if activated accidentally, it never gets hot. And the brightness range is adequate for 95% of my EDC-needs.
I think that you do not like it because it is still a very clean white with nothing rosy in it. It is not green by itself but looks “green” next to the high CRI 4000K 219B, and even next to a (70CRI) 4000K Luxeon V.
I always have the memorized mode set to the first flash in the ramp sequence, so it doesn’t get hot if it does turn on. That’s good for obvious reasons, but at the same time bad since it can drain a cell for hours before I notice.
Yep that too, I have a cute little Quark 123 that I modded that fits the “bill” perfectly.
. But also way back in the beginning of the FW3A thread, I asked if the clip could be bezel up mounted also, somebody said it couldn’t be done, the way the light was designed, I never forgot that….
It’s not, hard to beat the stock light, it was something to do, thats all. I’ll probably have 5 of these FW3A’s when all is said and done, this one will be different then the rest.
Bike inner tubes are really helpful items. They can be used as large rubber bands and even firestarters (gross smoke, but it works). I’ve used an inner tube to clamp some laminates of wood for a project where clamps wouldn’t be practical.
How hard is it to replace the optic? Do I have to keep the optic and lens still so as not twist off the wires? If so how is the best way to do that with a piece of tape?
I replaced the leds so I had the optic (and board) off, and did not worry about twisting the ledwires because they come through the middle hole and seemed long enough to allow one or two extra twists around each other. Everything went well.