FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

[Nev]

I thought mine was delivered today ,but after opening the jiffy bag ,it was an emisar D18 in glorious xplhi coolwhite ,I don’t care how long the fw3 takes now ha ha

[wellerus]

Got this beauty yesterday, i’m very satisfied with it, just something is bothering me, a little deformated optics on one edge, don’t know is this normal or not?

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo

[djozz]

you are not the first to be bothered by that irregularity in Carclo optics. It is in all Carclo optics, does not affect the beam, and is a remains of the moulding process of the optic during production.

[wellerus]

Thanks djozz for explanation.

[JasonWW]

@wellerus

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo

Stock is 10511. The others are the same just with different levels of frost.

@JasonWW

I also have all 4 of the Carclo lenses and the stock one seems to be the best, in my opinion. The clear 07 is a tiny bit tighter focused, but I see yellow streaks in the hot spot when shined on a whitewall or equivalent. Eh, it’s not worth using in my opinion. The 08 and 09 are nice if you need a wider spot, and don’t need the distance.

The 10511 is called a narrow spot. 22° (lightly frosted)
The 10508 is called a medium spot. 27° (heavier frosted)
The 10509 is called a wide spot. 40° (heaviest frosted)

The 10507 is the non-frosted, clear version with a narrow spot. 18°

Actually, it would not surprise me if the physical dimensions of all four lenses we’re identical and the beam angle difference is strictly due to the amount of frosting on the surface. Here is a picture in the same order as above.

.

[illuminos]

Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.

I’ve tightened the tail hard before tightening the head. I’ve also tightened the driver retainer ring. Anything else to check for that could cause this behavior?

[Yosue]

@wellerus

Got this beauty yesterday, i’m very satisfied with it, just something is bothering me, a little deformated optics on one edge, don’t know is this normal or not?

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo

its a design “flaw”

[teacher]

@illuminos

Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.

I’ve tightened the tail hard before tightening the head. I’ve also tightened the driver retainer ring. Anything else to check for that could cause this behavior?

Is it stepping down or just going straight to the low/moonlight??

Try calibrating the Temperature sensor & see if that helps.

[Melez]

Has Neal started shipping again? Seeing a lot of orders arriving but I’m sitting on unfulfilled. Shouldn’t have gone for 7A I guess.

[xevious (Gary)]

@JasonWW

@xevious

Not how mine functions. Turn light on. Start to loosen head — about a 1/8th turn and light goes out. Switch no longer active.

@RobertB

Strange. A quarter turn of the head, turns mine off completely. So it’s not supposed to do that?

You probably have dirty threads or they may be coated in lube.

The fact that this light has bare threads (not anodized) means that you may or may not be making contact with the ends loosened, just like all clicky lights. It can be completely random and the cleanliness and contact pressure on the threads plays a role.

The only lights that allow for a 1/4 turn mechanical lock out are ones with anodized threads.

I typically get 2 turn on blinks as I thread my head on due to the connection being made, then lost, then made again. It can be random which is why TK says the only way to make sure is to completely remove the head. Maybe unscrewing it 90% is enough for the springs to stop making contact, but that also varies whether you are using a flat top or button top battery.

That seems to be a plausible explanation for the inconsistency being reported, given how my light wasn’t functioning properly out of the box. I didn’t take it apart and do any cleaning, just loosen/tighten a couple of times… and that probably pushed aside enough thread lube to make a more reliable contact.

Btw, I discovered the split ring holding in the driver wasn’t tightened all the way. I tightened it down a bit (finger tight) and that didn’t change anything, so that’s ruled out.

[xevious (Gary)]

@emarkd

Thanks for the shoutout. I tried it too. Here’s a few photos of mine, if anyone’s considering.

…but in the end I came to the same conclusion as bansuri. This isn’t better, taken as a whole. It definitely (in my opinion at least) looks better. Like… a lot better. Its a much nicer design, cleaner. And its the proper diameter so it doesn’t stick out past the body. Both big improvements to the look of the light.

But it loses points on functionality. That same sticky-out ring that many of us (including myself) don’t love is actually quite functional. The shoulder on the tail of this light is very small so that bit of clip really helps with a cigar grip. Pure speculation, but I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s why Lumintop made the change to the thickness there. In addition, this clip is so short that it lands on the slope of the head, which is fine I guess, it works, but it doesn’t allow the clip to generate enough downward force for retention. It feels weak, because its cut to meet the light more on its body. Probably fixable by bending the clip more, but I didn’t try.

So its back to the stock clip for me too.

Thanks for this showcase of the D4 clip. I agree, MUCH more attractive looking. But like you indicated, I also appreciate the slight lip to the stock clip ring. Visually I don’t really notice it, as it’s subtle, but has a tactile presence that helps with grip.

[BurningPlayd0h]

My only complaint with the stock clip so far is that it’s not anywhere close to deep carry. I’m thinking about trying to bend mine into one since its pretty useless to me as-is.

[treellama]

@ToyKeeper

The lowest blip is a moon timing hint. Release the button before the blip happens, and it counts as a click. Release the button after the blip, and it counts as a hold. So it lets the user know when they can let go if they were wanting a shortcut to the lowest level.

That’s a great detail. Thanks!

[Tixx]

@Firelight2

… or just lock it out at the head with a 1/8 turn.

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Nice! I like that option. Didn’t think to do that. Thanks!

[dave101]

Anyone know how to stop the blinking during ramping? Is it possible?

[goshdogit]

@dave101

Anyone know how to stop the blinking during ramping? Is it possible?

That setting cannot be changed without some effort.

You’d need to reprogram the driver with your own customized version of Andúril.

Reflashing a driver requires a bit of hardware to connect to your computer and a bit of fiddling with the code.

Check the Link in ToyKeeper’s signature line for more info on reflashing drivers.

[LargeDog]

Got mine in 13 days. Super happy with the fit, finish, and performance. If you’re still doing the 95 CRI version, count me in.

[ryukin2000]

@RobertB

@Firelight2

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Look at my video again. It blips when the head is screwed back down. The driver is being re-powered after disconnecting.

this blip is normal ? because i get the same thing when i screw the head down.

[goshdogit]

One alternative to the ‘four click lockout’ would be to use ‘momentary’ mode at a reasonable (non-roasting) brightness.

This would essentially act like lockout, but with momentary access to any brightness you like rather than just moon.

To do this, set the light to your desired output, then turn it off. Click five times to enter ‘momentary’ mode.

NOTE: You’ll need to disconnect power briefly to exit ‘momentary’ mode. Any button presses will just make the light flash. You can’t ramp or enter any other modes while in ‘momentary.’

[tsouzee]

Just got my FW3A yesterday. Very cool little light. Much to learn on it. I like the candle and lightning modes. Very fun. Quick question: How do I can I easily get to the max regulated mode? I’m not confident I stop right on the blinks while ramping.