That seems to be a plausible explanation for the inconsistency being reported, given how my light wasn’t functioning properly out of the box. I didn’t take it apart and do any cleaning, just loosen/tighten a couple of times… and that probably pushed aside enough thread lube to make a more reliable contact.
Btw, I discovered the split ring holding in the driver wasn’t tightened all the way. I tightened it down a bit (finger tight) and that didn’t change anything, so that’s ruled out.
Thanks for this showcase of the D4 clip. I agree, MUCH more attractive looking. But like you indicated, I also appreciate the slight lip to the stock clip ring. Visually I don’t really notice it, as it’s subtle, but has a tactile presence that helps with grip.
My only complaint with the stock clip so far is that it’s not anywhere close to deep carry. I’m thinking about trying to bend mine into one since its pretty useless to me as-is.
One alternative to the ‘four click lockout’ would be to use ‘momentary’ mode at a reasonable (non-roasting) brightness.
This would essentially act like lockout, but with momentary access to any brightness you like rather than just moon.
To do this, set the light to your desired output, then turn it off. Click five times to enter ‘momentary’ mode.
NOTE: You’ll need to disconnect power briefly to exit ‘momentary’ mode. Any button presses will just make the light flash. You can’t ramp or enter any other modes while in ‘momentary.’
Just got my FW3A yesterday. Very cool little light. Much to learn on it. I like the candle and lightning modes. Very fun. Quick question: How do I can I easily get to the max regulated mode? I’m not confident I stop right on the blinks while ramping.
I really wouldn’t trust that. My FW3A and those of many others that have commented here will function normally sometimes after even several full turns of the head depending on how the light is oriented.
Yes, the FW3A remains powered sometimes even after several full turns of the head…. but the SWITCH disables instantly with just a 1/8 turn unscrew. As long as you unscrewed it while the light is off, it effectively acts like a true physical lockout.
You just ramp all the way up and it will stop there (unless you have adjusted the ramp ceiling). In order to go past that you have to double click to turbo or adjust ramp ceiling.
One of my XP-L HI’s had a piece of the LED base (from the edge not the die) floating in the optic. Thankfully I noticed before I blasted turbo and burned it into the phosphor. I opened it up and used some compressed air to blow it out and everything is fine now.
Also, as a disclaimer, every XP-L HI light ever made has had this happen to it occasionally. Annoying but it’s a fact of life with XP-L HI. That part is easily damaged during assembly.