FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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dropman
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Got mine yesterday. Fastest ever shipping from China to Latvia! Ordered on 28.04, got shipping notification on 2.05. I was 1957th on the list.
Light is smaller than I thought. Would like to see 21700 version Smile

JasonWW
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xevious wrote:

Not how mine functions. Turn light on. Start to loosen head — about a 1/8th turn and light goes out. Switch no longer active.

RobertB wrote:

Strange. A quarter turn of the head, turns mine off completely. So it’s not supposed to do that?

You probably have dirty threads or they may be coated in lube.

The fact that this light has bare threads (not anodized) means that you may or may not be making contact with the ends loosened, just like all clicky lights. It can be completely random and the cleanliness and contact pressure on the threads plays a role.

The only lights that allow for a 1/4 turn mechanical lock out are ones with anodized threads.

I typically get 2 turn on blinks as I thread my head on due to the connection being made, then lost, then made again. It can be random which is why TK says the only way to make sure is to completely remove the head. Maybe unscrewing it 90% is enough for the springs to stop making contact, but that also varies whether you are using a flat top or button top battery.

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JasonWW
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madness wrote:
Does anyone know if their are plans to make the driver available separately?

Lumintop typically does not do this. There is no way to use this driver in other lights so the only reason anyone would want it is for warranty use. Maybe Lumintop would send a replacement if your driver goes out?

This question is a big unknown, but highly unlikely.

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emarkd
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bansuri wrote:
I’ve turned into a clip snob and was sure I’d be replacing the clip, but the stock clip is great and this one will stay on my D4.
Thanks to all who’ve helped get this light out there!


clip idea from emarkd comment 1713 in TK D4 review.

Thanks for the shoutout. I tried it too. Here’s a few photos of mine, if anyone’s considering.

…but in the end I came to the same conclusion as bansuri. This isn’t better, taken as a whole. It definitely (in my opinion at least) looks better. Like… a lot better. Its a much nicer design, cleaner. And its the proper diameter so it doesn’t stick out past the body. Both big improvements to the look of the light.

But it loses points on functionality. That same sticky-out ring that many of us (including myself) don’t love is actually quite functional. The shoulder on the tail of this light is very small so that bit of clip really helps with a cigar grip. Pure speculation, but I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s why Lumintop made the change to the thickness there. In addition, this clip is so short that it lands on the slope of the head, which is fine I guess, it works, but it doesn’t allow the clip to generate enough downward force for retention. It feels weak, because its cut to meet the light more on its body. Probably fixable by bending the clip more, but I didn’t try.

So its back to the stock clip for me too.

PS: One final warning — I don’t think the Oveready clip would fit without grinding it out a bit. My clips are already ground out to fit other lights so I don’t have one un-modded here to try, but it doesn’t look it would’ve fit before widening. Maybe bansuri can confirm.

TheOnlyDocc
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@emarkd
This clip looks real nice! And i really like that it is not protruding at the tailcap. But 25 for a small SS clip is crazy.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Nev
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I thought mine was delivered today ,but after opening the jiffy bag ,it was an emisar D18 in glorious xplhi coolwhite ,I don’t care how long the fw3 takes now ha ha Love

wellerus
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Got this beauty yesterday, i’m very satisfied with it, just something is bothering me, a little deformated optics on one edge, don’t know is this normal or not?

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo

djozz
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you are not the first to be bothered by that irregularity in Carclo optics. It is in all Carclo optics, does not affect the beam, and is a remains of the moulding process of the optic during production.

wellerus
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Thanks djozz for explanation.

JasonWW
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wellerus wrote:

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo


Stock is 10511. The others are the same just with different levels of frost.
JasonWW wrote:
I also have all 4 of the Carclo lenses and the stock one seems to be the best, in my opinion. The clear 07 is a tiny bit tighter focused, but I see yellow streaks in the hot spot when shined on a whitewall or equivalent. Eh, it’s not worth using in my opinion. The 08 and 09 are nice if you need a wider spot, and don’t need the distance.

The 10511 is called a narrow spot. 22° (lightly frosted)
The 10508 is called a medium spot. 27° (heavier frosted)
The 10509 is called a wide spot. 40° (heaviest frosted)

The 10507 is the non-frosted, clear version with a narrow spot. 18°

Actually, it would not surprise me if the physical dimensions of all four lenses we’re identical and the beam angle difference is strictly due to the amount of frosting on the surface. Here is a picture in the same order as above.


.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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illuminos
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Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.

I’ve tightened the tail hard before tightening the head. I’ve also tightened the driver retainer ring. Anything else to check for that could cause this behavior?

Yosue
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wellerus wrote:
Got this beauty yesterday, i’m very satisfied with it, just something is bothering me, a little deformated optics on one edge, don’t know is this normal or not?

Is this optics which came with a FW3A 10507 model?

Are those Carclo lenses from 10507 to 10511 all compatible with a FW3A? Carclo

its a design “flaw”

teacher
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illuminos wrote:
Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.

I’ve tightened the tail hard before tightening the head. I’ve also tightened the driver retainer ring. Anything else to check for that could cause this behavior?

Is it stepping down or just going straight to the low/moonlight??

Try calibrating the Temperature sensor (if you haven’t already) & see if that helps.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Melez
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Has Neal started shipping again? Seeing a lot of orders arriving but I’m sitting on unfulfilled. Shouldn’t have gone for 7A I guess.

xevious
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JasonWW wrote:
xevious wrote:

Not how mine functions. Turn light on. Start to loosen head — about a 1/8th turn and light goes out. Switch no longer active.

RobertB wrote:

Strange. A quarter turn of the head, turns mine off completely. So it’s not supposed to do that?

You probably have dirty threads or they may be coated in lube.

The fact that this light has bare threads (not anodized) means that you may or may not be making contact with the ends loosened, just like all clicky lights. It can be completely random and the cleanliness and contact pressure on the threads plays a role.

The only lights that allow for a 1/4 turn mechanical lock out are ones with anodized threads.

I typically get 2 turn on blinks as I thread my head on due to the connection being made, then lost, then made again. It can be random which is why TK says the only way to make sure is to completely remove the head. Maybe unscrewing it 90% is enough for the springs to stop making contact, but that also varies whether you are using a flat top or button top battery.


That seems to be a plausible explanation for the inconsistency being reported, given how my light wasn’t functioning properly out of the box. I didn’t take it apart and do any cleaning, just loosen/tighten a couple of times… and that probably pushed aside enough thread lube to make a more reliable contact.

Btw, I discovered the split ring holding in the driver wasn’t tightened all the way. I tightened it down a bit (finger tight) and that didn’t change anything, so that’s ruled out.

xevious
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emarkd wrote:
Thanks for the shoutout. I tried it too. Here’s a few photos of mine, if anyone’s considering.



…but in the end I came to the same conclusion as bansuri. This isn’t better, taken as a whole. It definitely (in my opinion at least) looks better. Like… a lot better. Its a much nicer design, cleaner. And its the proper diameter so it doesn’t stick out past the body. Both big improvements to the look of the light.

But it loses points on functionality. That same sticky-out ring that many of us (including myself) don’t love is actually quite functional. The shoulder on the tail of this light is very small so that bit of clip really helps with a cigar grip. Pure speculation, but I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s why Lumintop made the change to the thickness there. In addition, this clip is so short that it lands on the slope of the head, which is fine I guess, it works, but it doesn’t allow the clip to generate enough downward force for retention. It feels weak, because its cut to meet the light more on its body. Probably fixable by bending the clip more, but I didn’t try.

So its back to the stock clip for me too.


Thanks for this showcase of the D4 clip. I agree, MUCH more attractive looking. But like you indicated, I also appreciate the slight lip to the stock clip ring. Visually I don’t really notice it, as it’s subtle, but has a tactile presence that helps with grip.
BurningPlayd0h
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My only complaint with the stock clip so far is that it’s not anywhere close to deep carry. I’m thinking about trying to bend mine into one since its pretty useless to me as-is.

treellama
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ToyKeeper wrote:
The lowest blip is a moon timing hint. Release the button before the blip happens, and it counts as a click. Release the button after the blip, and it counts as a hold. So it lets the user know when they can let go if they were wanting a shortcut to the lowest level.

That’s a great detail. Thanks!
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Firelight2 wrote:

… or just lock it out at the head with a 1/8 turn.

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Nice! I like that option. Didn’t think to do that. Thanks!

dave101
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Anyone know how to stop the blinking during ramping? Is it possible?

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dave101 wrote:
Anyone know how to stop the blinking during ramping? Is it possible?
That setting cannot be changed without some effort.

You’d need to reprogram the driver with your own customized version of Andúril.

Reflashing a driver requires a bit of hardware to connect to your computer and a bit of fiddling with the code.

Check the Link in ToyKeeper’s signature line for more info on reflashing drivers.

LargeDog
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Got mine in 13 days. Super happy with the fit, finish, and performance. If you’re still doing the 95 CRI version, count me in.

ryukin2000
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RobertB wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Look at my video again. It blips when the head is screwed back down. The driver is being re-powered after disconnecting.

this blip is normal ? because i get the same thing when i screw the head down.

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One alternative to the ‘four click lockout’ would be to use ‘momentary’ mode at a reasonable (non-roasting) brightness.

This would essentially act like lockout, but with momentary access to any brightness you like rather than just moon.

To do this, set the light to your desired output, then turn it off. Click five times to enter ‘momentary’ mode.

NOTE: You’ll need to disconnect power briefly to exit ‘momentary’ mode. Any button presses will just make the light flash. You can’t ramp or enter any other modes while in ‘momentary.’

tsouzee
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Just got my FW3A yesterday. Very cool little light. Much to learn on it. I like the candle and lightning modes. Very fun. Quick question: How do I can I easily get to the max regulated mode? I’m not confident I stop right on the blinks while ramping.

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I love momentary on but thought Anduril only does that at max ramp.

Do you mean ToyKeeper has already (in this version) updated the firmware to support ‘momentary on’ using the memory mode?

(i don’t have mine to test yet.)

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Tixx wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

… or just lock it out at the head with a 1/8 turn.

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Nice! I like that option. Didn’t think to do that. Thanks!

I really wouldn’t trust that. My FW3A and those of many others that have commented here will function normally sometimes after even several full turns of the head depending on how the light is oriented.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
I really wouldn’t trust that. My FW3A and those of many others that have commented here will function normally sometimes after even several full turns of the head depending on how the light is oriented.

Not normally.
The light will not go out if its on.
But will not turn on if its off.

goshdogit
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Johm wrote:
I love momentary on but thought Anduril only does that at max ramp.
Andúril does indeed activate the last-used brightness for momentary mode.

Momentary has functioned this way for quite a while, perhaps from the beginning.

I don’t mean to brag, but… Party

in September 2017, ToyKeeper wrote:
I think you may be the first person to actually try this UI.
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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Tixx wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:

… or just lock it out at the head with a 1/8 turn.

A 1/8 turn at the head is all you need to disable the switch making the light safe for pocket carry. Technically, this isn’t a true physical lockout, because the driver is still powered so there is parasitic drain. However, TK mentioned that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is extremely low. Low enough to take 10+ years to drain an 18650 and lower than the self-discharge of an 18650.

In short, a 1/8 turn at the head can be treated for all intents and purposes just like a true physical lockout.

Nice! I like that option. Didn’t think to do that. Thanks!

I really wouldn’t trust that. My FW3A and those of many others that have commented here will function normally sometimes after even several full turns of the head depending on how the light is oriented.


I think you misread those other posts.

Yes, the FW3A remains powered sometimes even after several full turns of the head…. but the SWITCH disables instantly with just a 1/8 turn unscrew. As long as you unscrewed it while the light is off, it effectively acts like a true physical lockout.

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