Just got my FW3A yesterday. Very cool little light. Much to learn on it. I like the candle and lightning modes. Very fun. Quick question: How do I can I easily get to the max regulated mode? I’m not confident I stop right on the blinks while ramping.
I really wouldn’t trust that. My FW3A and those of many others that have commented here will function normally sometimes after even several full turns of the head depending on how the light is oriented.
Yes, the FW3A remains powered sometimes even after several full turns of the head…. but the SWITCH disables instantly with just a 1/8 turn unscrew. As long as you unscrewed it while the light is off, it effectively acts like a true physical lockout.
You just ramp all the way up and it will stop there (unless you have adjusted the ramp ceiling). In order to go past that you have to double click to turbo or adjust ramp ceiling.
One of my XP-L HI’s had a piece of the LED base (from the edge not the die) floating in the optic. Thankfully I noticed before I blasted turbo and burned it into the phosphor. I opened it up and used some compressed air to blow it out and everything is fine now.
Also, as a disclaimer, every XP-L HI light ever made has had this happen to it occasionally. Annoying but it’s a fact of life with XP-L HI. That part is easily damaged during assembly.
Yep, that was it. First time I’ve seen Nyogel 760 interrupt an electrical connection. Every new light I get I thoroughly clean the threads and contacts with alcohol, then lube the o-rings with Nyogel 760
Nyogel760G is an electrical contact grease too. Used by the automakers. Would be interesting to see of the no-ox breaks the contact on this particular light too.
Seems to work on mine as you stated Firelight2. It is a switch deactivator. So if 1/8 turn while off, the switch will not work to turn it on. And on the same side, if you 1/8 turn while on, you cannot use the switch to turn it off. At least it is working like this with my testing right now.
I’m not sure how much using conductive lubricant really matters. I suspect the lubricant has much higher resistance than bare metal-to-metal contact. Even with conductive lubricant the light will still probably operate about the same.
I received my lights yesterday. I love these lights. I for the longest time wanted and HDS or Prometheus Alpha. Not anymore. These and the Emisars will do it for me.
Thanks again to Toykeeper and Neal (Congrats on your baby! GonXi GonXi).