LED replacement bulbs for cars

The wife’s Honda. My Prev Patrol and current D-Max Ute.
I installed LED’s in all.
Chinese the first time.
After that I found the Osram more/better natural light But much more exxy.

Now. in Ute and happy with, I have CHINESE C6.
(H4-6000K) COB. headlights. around $37AUD a pr .
Recommended by friend who runs a fleet of utes (15)
Clean. sharp cut off. great throw WHITE beams.

Incorporated with single row LED 20in Bar. I have 400+% more, white light. That see forever.

The local ones both, 3or4 x more expensive than Chinese and definitely give better beam and quality. But.
These C6 are definitely waaaay better than std lights and been in ute for around 4 yrs now.
Half the home and the caravan are LED too.
Also, be careful with the Main beams and others too
They come in multiple outputs. Get the highest rated. Some are insipid. The reverse are the worst.
I tried 2 sets.
Ended up buying 2 x square 4in, 4wd lights for $23 AUD del.
Mounting them on rear top of ute tray cover.
with a 3 way sw in dash. On. OFF. or Auto with rev lights.
Magic.
When clear behnd. they light up a good 40ft area behind ute for camping/fishing. and use NO power.

I wish there were at least one known good company to buy LED headlight bulbs from, with no guess work. For some styles of bulbs, the exact placement of the emitters is crucial to the proper operation of the bulb. Also, the size of the LED matters a lot in most headlight assemblies. Most LED headlight bulbs seem to be made to get the most Chinese Lumens out the front. They use huge emitters that won’t provide the right beam profile when used in the stock headlight assembly. While I want a lot of lumens, what I want most is a nice, throwy beam of Neutral White light (most are Cool White :confounded: ). Also, some of my vehicles use dual element bulbs. The majority of the LED headlight bulbs I’ve seen get the emitter placement wrong, and for at least one of my vehicles, the switching direction wrong as well. If only Richard would make some replacement headlight bulbs and sell them at MTN LITEbar.

I recently tried this Suaoki car LED headlamps:

Edit: I just fully read the op and it only asks for regular interior/signal lamps and not headlamps.

There are options for professionally installed, DOT-compliant LED retrofits. It's a bit different than buying the replacement bulbs online from China.

I looked around, and it's probably pretty tough to get any sort of official DOT-compliant certification for a drop-in LED replacement for halogen. In most areas in the United States, if you're going to try to use one on-road, I'd pay attention to the light cut-offs. If you pay attention, you'll notice factory LED/HID headlamps on low-beams will have a sharp cutoff that should stay level with the rest of the car. This is to prevent blinding others (though sadly ineffective when a lifted truck tailgates me). This is also generally enhanced with some sort of leveling system on the vehicle, so if you load 500 lbs over the rear axle, the headlights aren't suddenly aiming up by fifteen degrees.

Another thing that I hate seeing is light bars everywhere on cars these days. Most states require that off-road lighting (classically the large halogens over top or on the grille of a pickup) be covered during on-road use. The same regulations would apply to light bars, but I never see them covered and it doesn't get enforced.

Makes me want to get Anduril on my L6, configure tactical strobe to use the FET, and point it backwards for the next light bar I see...

(Sorry for the rant, can anyone tell I got tailgated by another light-bar Jeep yesterday?)

I recently installed morimoto headlights in my 2015 f150 and they are awesome. They are a complete replacement.

Will be replacing my fog lamps as well and then look for different options for my tail lights.

A colleague from way back had… some boxy old car, a Honda, I think… with a squared back/trunklid. He slapped on some of that garish 8” wide chrome tape that idjits slather all over their cars (bottom of the doors, panels, etc.), right across the trunklid.

If you were following with lowbeams on, no big deal, as they’d (if correctly aimed) be hitting just low enough to not catch the tape. But if you tried hitting him with the brights, you’d get blinded in return.

Was quite clever, I thought. Looked ugly as sin, but was functional.

The thing I hate about those light bars is that they have almost no throw, so they’re not helping the idjit using them on the road anyway. They’re just one big glare. I’ve wished so many times for a Candela-seeking heat laser mounted to my car. It would automatically point at the offending source and take it out quickly and permanently. :smiling_imp:

Hard pass on those.

These “194/921/t10/t15” bulbs are sooo much brighter.
Ive installed a ton of leds over the years. I have an auto detail/customization shop. Ive tried buying from most of the suppliers, even expensive ones like vleds. Heres a truck i did the other day. You can see the difference between one of those 13 led type that you posted and the one i linked on the 3rd brake/cab light.

!Imgur: The magic of the Internet Imgur: The magic of the Internet Imgur: The magic of the Internet Imgur: The magic of the Internet http://imgur.com/ZXaR54v Imgur: The magic of the Internet Imgur: The magic of the Internet Imgur: The magic of the Internet!

quote=Lightbringer]From previous orders:

Some nice 13-LED WW “194”s

5-LED WW “194”s
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y1CFCMY/
[/quote]

Morimoto round led foglamps are excellent and would match your headlights

Surely you’d want to know if a bulb fails, which would happen with the 6ohm resistor but not with the 33-50ohm resistor? Am i missing something?
Good info though, i have H9 bulbs in a projector lens which are dim, even with upgraded Philips X_treme Vision bulbs, Would be interested to know what you think of the H11 upgrade if you do it. (Am leaning towards to Philips Ultinon LEDS over the H11s at the mo).

I’ve got something similar for my backup lights. Flat like that, most of the LEDs are facing the long-axis of the reflector (see the pic above). Went up’n’down through my amazon orders, couldn’t find which bulbs they were, though.

Not for interiors, though. I’d get sunburn from something that bright. And I went out of my way for WW, because I just like that “relaxing” color, especially at night. 5-chip LEDs were okay, but the 13s were way nicer.

Thing is, my interior fixtures don’t have reflectors, just white-plastic to reflect light, and facetted lenses to spread the light. So when I found I could actually stuff the 13s in there and they’d fit, well, yay me!

Ever notice that so many backup lights are tinted? On VWs, they tend to be tinted gray, some GMs have they tinted orange-pink, even on my old Regal the openings are “slotted” to cut down on outbound light. Wtf??

David EF.
2 things.
Headlights also have Left hand offset on beam and Right hand. Depending on left/right hand drive.
Buying from China check that. All the ones I’ve got. H4
have been simple drop ins as long as you have small hands.
Look on You tube for reviews. (Veh, LED’s)
There are some good Chinese ones out there.

With those Bars and throw.
Get the single row 10w LED’s NOT the 3w dual/triples.
The 3’s are spreaders.
Hence the combo’s of outer and inner lights on bar.
Single row ARE real good throwers.
Mine, 20in. throws forever. Cold White too. not warm white.
It gives clear sharp trees. over 600mtrs down our road here.

There’s essentially 3 things:

  1. trusted source, 2) LED tint, and 3) cost.

You can pay handsomely from a place like deautoled.com, or store.ijdmtoy.com, where they assure error code free LED’s. Or you can try your luck with lesser priced LED’s from other sources. The cheaper ones seem destined for shorter lifespans. I’ve used about 3 different cheaper sources over the years, both auto and home… and most died after 1~2 years of use. I haven’t bought any newer ones lately, though I’ve been looking as the field has changed yet again (more aggressive offerings for good prices).

My dissatisfaction for interior LED’s had been with tint. Even the pricier ones seemed to go overboard on cooler tints, as if warm looked too much like incandescent and wouldn’t sell. Cool is too harsh. Ideally, I want something neutral white that leans warm. So cooler than incandescent, but not bluish like so many LED’s.

Czech out those 2 links I posted. Both are WW, both are quite nice!

Last week or so, I “argued” with someone as to whether/not my interior lights were LEDs or hotwire. He was insisting that LEDs are that nasty Angry Blue™ and mine have to be hotwire bulbs, because they look so natural. :laughing:

For the tint, there is now the Luminus SST20 with high CRI (4000K and below).
I think it can be mounted on something like that as the SST20 is 3535 form factor. But no one got the idea…

all of this LEDs W5W (T10) and C5W are shit! =(

I try more than 10 types of W5W

some types of w5w and w10w

It will die after 1-6 month!
The most tenacious what I find was this


But after some month some of the lines of leds will die. But it will work with leftover LEDs.

Why? Because of hot. I mean it is not with aluminum pcb, it is with glass textolite what can not let heat away from the leds. And it is with ordinary smd resistors. When you car is muffledб it is about 12v, when engine is work - it is about 14v. Current with 12 and 14v is different.

Also there is really cheap leds with tiny crystal and they work to the limit (works with maximum current)

I upgraded C5W by aluminium radiator 14x14x6mm, but it is also with glass textolite with poor thermal conductivity.

Now I finalized drawing the pcbs for C5W (C10W) and finally (15-20 hours) pcbs for W5W (T10) LED lamps with TRI-R 3030 smd LEDs SunLike and NSi CCR - Constant Current Regulator & LED Driver (I call it smart resistor)

How much time need to draw pcb board?

If someone interesting, C5W will cost about 5$
W5W (T10) will cost 5-10$ (depends from led quantity)
1pcs 3030 SunLike led cost 0.5$ in my web-site

it seems like they are too much trouble
the power they save, is not really that much
the incandescents work ok and are cheap

i tried getting some brake/tail lights on aliexpress
somehow i confused what they all were and ended up with just ‘tail light’
(only one brightness)

they went in the socket, even though they were the wrong bulb

(was there supposed to be something to prevent the wrong one going in?)

because they didn;t work right, i swapped them around a lot, or tried

pretty soon the single solid wire that they used for a connection, broke off
75c wasted ! :slight_smile:

i won;t try it again

maybe for headlights but not marker or dome lights

wle

the one reason why I use led in my car - it is light in the interior of my car. It is 6pcs C10W - 10w each. It is 60W. It is shine, but too much power… In another cars salon (interior) light - it is W5W. One way to do it more shine - use good LED lamp, but there is no good W5W (T10) LED lamps =(

What I want is high CRI 3500k bulbs for cars, with fully adjustable beams for consistency.

may be this?