FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

I was sure that 219c’s were what I wanted but now I don’t even know, I just don’t want to have to learn how to reflow led’s so gaskets is what I’m getting

Yeah the reason I use the mould is because I don’t have a drill press & doing it freehand is difficult, might try it though.

I don’t have a drill press either.

For freehand, it might work best to make the drilled holes slightly too small. Then use a round needle-file to grind them by hand to the correct size.

I know. Doing that for myself is fine but I can’t spend two hours on each one filing etc and sell them for £6 :smiley:
They take about 45min each as is.

I just found an easy little mod, which costs next to nothing, comes in thousands of colours/thicknesses etc (including GITD) and which also protect your lights! (any really not just this one)
I vape and on my tank to stop it smashing are what are called ‘vape bands’ basically a silicone band - it fits this light perfectly! The ones I have don’t glow, but do look kinda cool imo!
Obviously I’m going to order some GITD ones, so thought I’d share the idea with you!
If this of interest just search ebay or any Chinese shop for ‘vape band’ or add ‘glow’ to it for gitd ones, they come in different widths too.

A ‘plain’ gitd one - link

Nice idea.

I wish there was a multi-sided one available, like I’ve got on my Nitecore EA4.

Do they come in different sizes?
Some of these on the battery tube might be good for the grip flippers :smiley:

I don’t know about different sizes, but they stretch easily though - they may well do different sizes, they certainly do different widths most seem to be 21x10mm. As for ‘anti roll’ shapes, again very likely with a bit of searching, they definitely do ones with lanyard holes on the side (would also stop rolling), I saw those whilst browsing earlier!
I have been googling - vape ring, vape sleeve, vape pouch, vape case …… :person_facepalming:
maybe we should have some custom printed ‘BLF’ ones….Neal! :sunglasses:
These look interesting -


It is counterintuitive to have “Click & Hold” and “Click - Hold” mean different things.

Hold means keeping doing the previous action.

These should all mean the same thing:
Click & Hold
Click - Hold
Click and Hold
Click then Hold

= click, do not release, keep holding

“Double Click &/-/and/then Hold” would mean click, release, click again very soon, keep holding.

edit: TK’s original chart isn’t exactly like this either. In it hold means click and hold but at least that’s obvious unlike this & - and then business :slight_smile:

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

Even 219b?

Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it :+1:
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.

How’s this now?

Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.

It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)

Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.

Now 3 LH351D 5000K and the 10509 are waiting for the FW3A.

I hope they do not need another month to get the SST- 20 version ready to shipp!

… wow, a floody delight! That would be my first choice as well. Please follow up with us when everything is done.

I’m looking for highest possible cri, so yeah…

Are the Samsung emitters that seem to be in the running for the next best thing (dogfarts?), available on a triple mpcb?

In 4000K you can order it directly from Led4Power https://led4power.com/product/3x-samsung-lh351d-4000k-90cri-led-sphwhtl3da0gf4t0q6-20mm-3xp-20mm-dtp-copper-mcpcb/

For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D

huh ok, Thanks,
Guess I’m still waiting then