You saw the light flash when you started screwing in the battery tube. This means main power is connected to the driver. However, nothing happens when you press the button. The problem is likely the switch connection to the driver. Try the following:
open the light up and confirm that the driver is in its socket the driver retaining ring is tight.
examine the contact ring for the inner tube at both the driver and the tailcap. Make sure there is no debris present that would prevent them from making connection.
Reassemble. Tighten the tailcap first. Make it tight quite. Then put in the battery and tighten the head.
I got through thermal config OK (Light thought it was 45C in a 28C room - LOL) with the visual guide. But I thought I had done something weird with the ramp config veiling - was disturbingly dim after setting the levels and steps for stepped ramp!
By actually RTFM’ing , I learned that one subtracts the desired value from 151.
The battery tube and inner tube is too short for protected cells. So the only mods I can think if are to extend both of them the exact same amount. This is pretty hard to do.
Maybe you could find or mod a protected 18650 to have a very short length. Like 67mm.
Both ends of the battery tube have unanodized threads so you either have to seperate the head or maybe unscrew the head far enough that the battery springs loose contact. Unscrewing just a little may or may not cut power.
Make sure the light has fully cooled down internally before setting the ambient temperature.
If it thought it was 45° and the step down is also 45° it may not even allow more than 150 lumen. That’s no good. Lol
Yes, it’s a bug, mine does the same. Even when testing back to back, sometimes it steps down in a couple of seconds, but after ramping it back up, it doesn’t do it. Now it’s been running for 15 minutes without stepping down from muggle ramp max and the surface temp is 42°C. Output has only dropped 5%.
Out of interest, in regards to the thermal configuration, what would be a maximum sensible temperature to set the step-down at, to avoid damaging the light itself?
Most electronics, including the led, can function above 200degC.
But when Pb/Sn solder is used, the unsolder temperature of all that stuff is about 180degC.
Li-ion batteries can go wrong above 150degC (although high current IMR-type batteries can withstand higher)
But for them to live long and happy lives you should keep them below 80degC.
Your hands however feel pain above 55degC.
And they still feel comfortable below 50degC.
As soon as I insert a battery, the light goes on. I can’t switch it off, the switch erratically changes brightness and modes.
I don’t think it’s related to the battery tube or the switch itself. If I connect a battery directly to the head (+ to the spring, - to the threads) it also comes on immediately.
Anybody experienced a similar behavior? What could be the reason for it?
Looks like you clicked 5 times instead of 4 so now the light is locked in momentary mode, what you have to do is to remove the head (only way to get out of the momentary mode is to remove power) and take it back, that should take you back to normal mode.
Hmmm, that really is odd. So it doesn’t immediately go to turbo and stay there? It actually ramps up and down and switches modes on it’s own?
My guess would be there is something shorting the driver circuits. Maybe a stray sliver of aluminum or something. You might try pulling the driver out and run a brush or compressed air over the tiny components.
I assume you checked to see if the driver was flat and that the notches line up, then make sure the retaining ring is tight.
