I just found an easy little mod, which costs next to nothing, comes in thousands of colours/thicknesses etc (including GITD) and which also protect your lights! (any really not just this one)
I vape and on my tank to stop it smashing are what are called ‘vape bands’ basically a silicone band - it fits this light perfectly! The ones I have don’t glow, but do look kinda cool imo!
Obviously I’m going to order some GITD ones, so thought I’d share the idea with you!
If this of interest just search ebay or any Chinese shop for ‘vape band’ or add ‘glow’ to it for gitd ones, they come in different widths too.
I don’t know about different sizes, but they stretch easily though - they may well do different sizes, they certainly do different widths most seem to be 21x10mm. As for ‘anti roll’ shapes, again very likely with a bit of searching, they definitely do ones with lanyard holes on the side (would also stop rolling), I saw those whilst browsing earlier!
I have been googling - vape ring, vape sleeve, vape pouch, vape case ……
maybe we should have some custom printed ‘BLF’ ones….Neal!
These look interesting -
It is counterintuitive to have “Click & Hold” and “Click - Hold” mean different things.
Hold means keeping doing the previous action.
These should all mean the same thing:
Click & Hold
Click - Hold
Click and Hold
Click then Hold
= click, do not release, keep holding
“Double Click &/-/and/then Hold” would mean click, release, click again very soon, keep holding.
edit: TK’s original chart isn’t exactly like this either. In it hold means click and hold but at least that’s obvious unlike this & - and then business
Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.
Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.
It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)
Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.
For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D
That’s a good price for this 3x LH351D MCPCB… but I’m wondering if there’s a similarly priced one available in the USA. Closest I could find was with MTN Electronics, but they’re $15 USD before shipping.
LED4Power’s shipping is almost half the time of most Chinese packages and his boards are REALLY nice. I had to take a little bit of a bur off the side of mine where the boards snap apart to make it fit in the FW3A