Does everything still fit ok with the additional MCPCB thickness?
Mine fits fine. I swapped the stock board for a Noctigon. Didn’t change the o-rings or anything else other than emitter swap and adding Lee minus green filter below the lens. The bezel still screws down fully. It was not necessary to lap the Noctigon.
Awesome, thanks for confirming 
Yeah, double confirmed
There’s only like a 0.3mm difference.
How is the rubber clicky achieved on the bottom right?
That was swapped in from a Thrunite Archer.
I should incorporate some of these changes into the original. They’re good ideas! Particularly, labelling each arrow so people don’t have to look at the legend to see what they mean. This also helps when printing without color.
Adding product-specific info is a nice touch too, though I’m not sure I want to do that upstream since it’s harder to maintain when each item has a different diagram.
However, I’m not certain all the changes are an improvement:
- I see “Click & Hold”, “Click - Hold”, and “Click then Hold”. How are these three different?
When making the diagram, and generally when communicating about UIs, I’ve been careful to use specific terms… “Hold”, “Click, Hold”, and “Click, Click, Hold”. The reason is to eliminate ambiguity.
It may not be immediately intuitive, because the numbering system starts at zero… but doing it this way ensures there is enough information to figure out the meaning with a bit of thought. Starting it at zero removes any question about whether “Click, Click, Hold” involves pressing the button two times or three times, but starting the counting system at one leaves it unclear. It’s much the same as why “twentieth century” refers to the 1900s.
So, that was a very deliberate decision.
I also see a few other things which might be inaccurate or confusing:
- The arrow to strobe modes indicates that it always starts on candle mode… but it doesn’t.
- The legend says a blue line means 4 clicks, but this is contradicted elsewhere in the diagram.
- Usage of “Mode” is inconsistent. So, for example, it appears to have “Momentary Mode” and “BattCheck Mode”, but also “Muggle Mode Mode” and “Beacon Mode Mode”. It reminds me of when people say “LCD Display” or “PIN Number”. One day, I even caught someone saying “It’s Just a Bunch Of JBOD Disks”.
- Why is candle mode red? Is it related to tempcheck or thermal config somehow?
- Some fonts are almost unreadable due to the small size.
- Button actions are shown in at least 4 different fonts / sizes.
Anyway, if you’d like a somewhat easier time modifying the diagram, the .svg file is in the firmware repository. It’s typically easier than editing in a pixel-based program.
Edit: Looks like maukka brought up some of this first. I should read the rest of the posts before responding.
You forgot “ATM Machine.” 
That’s definitely clearer! :+1:
Or “SSD drive” which annoys me quite a lot.
P.S. Don’t shout at your JBOD’s! In case you don’t get the reference.
Having once worked in a data center doing hardware stress testing, I’m suddenly disappointed that I never tried this.
Ok, another revision... ;)
^ That’s better, CRX. Also I’m glad you removed the instruction text from the bottom. I think that should be separate, as the diagram is meant for quick reference (also the very long image becomes unwieldy to deal with).
its getting clearera and clearera 
Yeah, getting clearera the more I sober up 
The quest for FW3A ‘Cheat Sheet’ perfection is closing in on…… P.E.R.F.E.C.T.I.O.N.!! 
Together, we can do it
Amen!! …
! 
!
glowy!
ring of glow tape inside the head
very easy
wle
+1
