LED replacement bulbs for cars

Hard pass on those.

These “194/921/t10/t15” bulbs are sooo much brighter.
Ive installed a ton of leds over the years. I have an auto detail/customization shop. Ive tried buying from most of the suppliers, even expensive ones like vleds. Heres a truck i did the other day. You can see the difference between one of those 13 led type that you posted and the one i linked on the 3rd brake/cab light.

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quote=Lightbringer]From previous orders:

Some nice 13-LED WW “194”s

5-LED WW “194”s
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y1CFCMY/
[/quote]

Morimoto round led foglamps are excellent and would match your headlights

Surely you’d want to know if a bulb fails, which would happen with the 6ohm resistor but not with the 33-50ohm resistor? Am i missing something?
Good info though, i have H9 bulbs in a projector lens which are dim, even with upgraded Philips X_treme Vision bulbs, Would be interested to know what you think of the H11 upgrade if you do it. (Am leaning towards to Philips Ultinon LEDS over the H11s at the mo).

I’ve got something similar for my backup lights. Flat like that, most of the LEDs are facing the long-axis of the reflector (see the pic above). Went up’n’down through my amazon orders, couldn’t find which bulbs they were, though.

Not for interiors, though. I’d get sunburn from something that bright. And I went out of my way for WW, because I just like that “relaxing” color, especially at night. 5-chip LEDs were okay, but the 13s were way nicer.

Thing is, my interior fixtures don’t have reflectors, just white-plastic to reflect light, and facetted lenses to spread the light. So when I found I could actually stuff the 13s in there and they’d fit, well, yay me!

Ever notice that so many backup lights are tinted? On VWs, they tend to be tinted gray, some GMs have they tinted orange-pink, even on my old Regal the openings are “slotted” to cut down on outbound light. Wtf??

David EF.
2 things.
Headlights also have Left hand offset on beam and Right hand. Depending on left/right hand drive.
Buying from China check that. All the ones I’ve got. H4
have been simple drop ins as long as you have small hands.
Look on You tube for reviews. (Veh, LED’s)
There are some good Chinese ones out there.

With those Bars and throw.
Get the single row 10w LED’s NOT the 3w dual/triples.
The 3’s are spreaders.
Hence the combo’s of outer and inner lights on bar.
Single row ARE real good throwers.
Mine, 20in. throws forever. Cold White too. not warm white.
It gives clear sharp trees. over 600mtrs down our road here.

There’s essentially 3 things:

  1. trusted source, 2) LED tint, and 3) cost.

You can pay handsomely from a place like deautoled.com, or store.ijdmtoy.com, where they assure error code free LED’s. Or you can try your luck with lesser priced LED’s from other sources. The cheaper ones seem destined for shorter lifespans. I’ve used about 3 different cheaper sources over the years, both auto and home… and most died after 1~2 years of use. I haven’t bought any newer ones lately, though I’ve been looking as the field has changed yet again (more aggressive offerings for good prices).

My dissatisfaction for interior LED’s had been with tint. Even the pricier ones seemed to go overboard on cooler tints, as if warm looked too much like incandescent and wouldn’t sell. Cool is too harsh. Ideally, I want something neutral white that leans warm. So cooler than incandescent, but not bluish like so many LED’s.

Czech out those 2 links I posted. Both are WW, both are quite nice!

Last week or so, I “argued” with someone as to whether/not my interior lights were LEDs or hotwire. He was insisting that LEDs are that nasty Angry Blue™ and mine have to be hotwire bulbs, because they look so natural. :laughing:

For the tint, there is now the Luminus SST20 with high CRI (4000K and below).
I think it can be mounted on something like that as the SST20 is 3535 form factor. But no one got the idea…

all of this LEDs W5W (T10) and C5W are shit! =(

I try more than 10 types of W5W

some types of w5w and w10w

It will die after 1-6 month!
The most tenacious what I find was this


But after some month some of the lines of leds will die. But it will work with leftover LEDs.

Why? Because of hot. I mean it is not with aluminum pcb, it is with glass textolite what can not let heat away from the leds. And it is with ordinary smd resistors. When you car is muffledб it is about 12v, when engine is work - it is about 14v. Current with 12 and 14v is different.

Also there is really cheap leds with tiny crystal and they work to the limit (works with maximum current)

I upgraded C5W by aluminium radiator 14x14x6mm, but it is also with glass textolite with poor thermal conductivity.

Now I finalized drawing the pcbs for C5W (C10W) and finally (15-20 hours) pcbs for W5W (T10) LED lamps with TRI-R 3030 smd LEDs SunLike and NSi CCR - Constant Current Regulator & LED Driver (I call it smart resistor)

How much time need to draw pcb board?

If someone interesting, C5W will cost about 5$
W5W (T10) will cost 5-10$ (depends from led quantity)
1pcs 3030 SunLike led cost 0.5$ in my web-site

it seems like they are too much trouble
the power they save, is not really that much
the incandescents work ok and are cheap

i tried getting some brake/tail lights on aliexpress
somehow i confused what they all were and ended up with just ‘tail light’
(only one brightness)

they went in the socket, even though they were the wrong bulb

(was there supposed to be something to prevent the wrong one going in?)

because they didn;t work right, i swapped them around a lot, or tried

pretty soon the single solid wire that they used for a connection, broke off
75c wasted ! :slight_smile:

i won;t try it again

maybe for headlights but not marker or dome lights

wle

the one reason why I use led in my car - it is light in the interior of my car. It is 6pcs C10W - 10w each. It is 60W. It is shine, but too much power… In another cars salon (interior) light - it is W5W. One way to do it more shine - use good LED lamp, but there is no good W5W (T10) LED lamps =(

What I want is high CRI 3500k bulbs for cars, with fully adjustable beams for consistency.

may be this?

For dome lights, I use this kind of LED panels with adapters for the bulb holder:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Warm-White-Car-Interior-48-SMD-LED-Lamp-Light-Panel-T10-Dome-Bulb-BA9S-Adapter/232173771458
There are various sizes available, I always use the biggest which will fit behind the plexiglass panel. They work well for several years now. Sometimes the wires are not soldered, but just pressed in in the adapters. The resulting intermittant contact can be repaired by actually soldering. Not the LEDs fault though.

The other type of LED buld I made good experiences with is this:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/2X-Canbus-144SMD-BAU15S-LED-Blinker-Birnen-12V-Bernstein-Gelb/233462542894

https://www.ebay.de/itm/2x-1156-144SMD-BAU15S-PY21W-LED-Turn-Signal-Lights-Bulb-Canbus-Amber-Yellow-12V/293417003833
I use them as turn indicator, reverse lights and in the center brake light.
When being on constantly, they get hot as hell, but reduce the current after some time. There seems to be a sensor inside doing that. The heat seems to be no problem though, I ran them on a power supply for 24h straight and everything still worked. They get dimmer below 10V though. In my ancient `97 Toyota, the voltage sag with heating, lights, and rear window heating on at the same time while idling caused a voltage sag to below 10V apparently. This reduced the current the LED lights used, leading to rapid blinking. Parallel 4ohm resistors fixed that. Modern cars should have no problems with that. I still like these blinkers, they are so intense that they can be seen in reflective roadsigns.

Whenever I buy anything. I always check reviews on net first.
No reviews.
I go elsewhere. Let somebody else review/test them first.

There are a few good ones. as on here shows.
But more not so good.

you can check out ledlightupgrade.com. their automotive lighting is very high quality and engineered to work with factory housings and still provide a correct beam pattern that doesn’t blind everyone.

i tried some, they had several problems

i didn;t try the most expensive though

one problem: the terminals broke very quickly

also one thing you may run into - they do not draw the same current, so the car may think ‘these things are defective’ and do various inconvenient things

i decided it is not worth it
maybe for headlights but i have not tried yet
probably will not bother
the reduced power really doesn;t matter
they might be brighter but there is a limit to that, i mean you do not want them too bright
or a horrible blue color
or pink
which i have seen

wle

So hard pass on the Ebay ones? Sorry I’m a little slow

If you have an older car where there’s no bulb out warnings, it’s easier to install LED’s… but then it comes down to the flasher, as some base the flash rate on the current pulled and will rapid-flash with an LED replacing an incandescent bulb.

The Chinese have essentially flooded the market with crap LED’s. It’s such a huge waste, when consider all the production for simply subpar items like this. I’ve had my fair share of them burn out and abandoned LED’s for a few years.

Eventually some companies started to make reliable LED’s but for much higher cost. And some would have built-in resistors to trick the CANBUS / VAGCOM / error system. I wasn’t about to pay $44 for a pair of LED bulbs. So, I waited.

FINALLY, there are some makers producing fairly decent bulbs for low prices. Still, some just don’t last like they’re supposed to do. I’ve bought a few bulbs rated to defeat CANBUS error checking, but found they would only work with just 1 set of LED’s on the circuit. For instance, if I tried to do front & rear LED flashers, it would throw an error and I’d get rapid flashing. So, I have incandescent on the front, but LED’s in the rear. It works great. Essentially, rear will be seen much more than the front, as vehicles behind you are traveling in your direction.

I was able to find a supplier of auxiliary side turn signal markers that use multiple LED’s and do a little “animation” of the LED’s flowing forward. It’s enough current not to trip the bulb-out warning.

That was all exterior. Interior is easier, as on my car, a 2007 Audi, the CANBUS doesn’t care at all about interior bulbs. But my big beef was the temperature. 6500k is just unacceptable. Some 6000k rated LED’s are actually reported as showing a little more neutral, no bluish tinge, and that’s acceptable. But thankfully now some makers have focused on warm LED’s for interior bulbs (the festoon type). There’s just one other trick to this… DIMMING! Many of the bulbs being sold do not dim… and that’s a real bummer if you’re accustomed to a nice dim feature in your car.

I ordered a 6-pack set of Festoon style bulbs (41 mm) from Amazon. While the product description didn’t say anything about dimming, there were some reviews that said that they did. LINK.
Turns out these don’t dim, as confirmed by the seller, so I canceled. I found another set that reviewers say WILL dim, and I even asked a question that got 2 confirmations. Once I order and receive them, I’ll post about them rather than including a link now and having to edit again.

I also replaced my trunk and interior light with LED, i had found some Philips 4000K 40 lumen bulbs, way better than stock (and only 0.5W) but i would love to get 100-200 real lumens in a name brand.
The ones i got were discontinued iirc though i got some extras.