Reverse clicky switch for Convoy S11?

15 posts / 0 new
Last post
oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU
Reverse clicky switch for Convoy S11?

I’ve recently received the Convoy S11, but obviously I wasn’t reading very well when I bought it – it comes with a forward clicky, and so is relatively limited in its usefulness to me.

The switch used appears to be this one basing off the dimensions in the diagram, so I’m looking for an alternative – at first I thought an Omten 1288 and just extend the button to the height that it needs to be, but I’m unsure if there’s something more suitable.

Does anyone have any advice or pointers on this?

Edited by: oweban on 04/03/2019 - 00:33
oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Looks like this might also do the trick:

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1610/10001865/1203605-omten-1217-1-5a-25...

250V 1.5A, but that’s 375W… only need ~18W.

Tumbleweed48
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 11/12/2012 - 23:21
Posts: 824
Location: Canada

Hey, not so fast! Smile

It looks like you’re one of the first to actually get their hands on an S11. Tell us about it!

What’s the beam like? Throwy? Floody? Any rings, or a decent reflector? What’s your general impression of build quality?

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 48 sec ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 4087
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

oweban wrote:
Looks like this might also do the trick:

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1610/10001865/1203605-omten-1217-1-5a-25...

250V 1.5A, but that’s 375W… only need ~18W.

Please wait a moment! You are thinking one-dimensional. The Watt’s are not so important, the Amp’s are!
Your batteries are not 250V, “only” 4.2V a piece. You need a switch that can do 5A, preferably more.
Compare it with putting a 600 hp Ferrari in front of a plow: pretty sight but useless because lack of torque.
Just PM Simon at Convoy. He is a really nice guy, and will give you the best advice possible.
.
.
As for the lenght of the switch: there is a “stub” under the rubber cap. You can adjust the feel with that.
Forward clickies tend to be longer. Chances are that in your case all of the stub has been removed.
Most of my reverse clicky switches work perfectly fine with a new rubber cap “fresh out of the box”.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Hmm, I thought that it’d be more to do with maximum wattage, so 4V should be able to do a whole lot of amps if it can do 250V 1.5A. Obviously not! I’ll also take a photo of the inside of the rubber cap, thanks for the tip!

Simon implied that he didn’t have a switch for it:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1483201#comment-1483201

@Tumbleweed – when I get on a computer and a bit later tonight I’ll write more about it (perhaps a mini-review) and link to it Smile Should be ~3 hours.

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 48 sec ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 4087
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

oweban wrote:
Hmm, I thought that it’d be more to do with maximum wattage, so 4V should be able to do a whole lot of amps if it can do 250V 1.5A. Obviously not! I’ll also take a photo of the inside of the rubber cap, thanks for the tip!

Simon implied that he didn’t have a switch for it:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1483201#comment-1483201

@Tumbleweed – when I get on a computer and a bit later tonight I’ll write more about it (perhaps a mini-review) and link to it Smile Should be ~3 hours.

Amps are Amps. They don’t increase because you lower the Voltage. It is still a 1.5A switch. The switch you mentioned is SAFE for applications up to 250V. You definitely don’t want to put a 12V car-switch in a 230V home installation.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Fair call, I think I’m thinking of something else. I’ll have to dig around and find another switch that suits; I’m seeing that the 1288 has done 5A no problems.

It’s a 22mm switch PCB, so I can always look into direct swap options too Smile

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Tumbleweed48 wrote:
Hey, not so fast! Smile

It looks like you’re one of the first to actually get their hands on an S11. Tell us about it!

What’s the beam like? Throwy? Floody? Any rings, or a decent reflector? What’s your general impression of build quality?


First impressions: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66629
Lu
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 09/26/2018 - 19:17
Posts: 18
Location: Montenegro

I didn’t read the description also, so thought it’s a faulty sample. I contacted Simon so he explained. Still it makes no sense or logic to me.
I would order the light anyway, I’m in love with the form factor and it looks so “toolish” and strong. I think I’ll just replace the switch also. Maybe even the driver in the future, to get rid of the disco modes, it’s what I did with all my S2+

Hoop
Hoop's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 12/20/2012 - 05:33
Posts: 1036
Location: Spokane, WA

Maybe a Judco 10A switch would work for you. It can be reduced in size lengthwise so as to become square, and also a little by height.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Oops, forgot to post here. The Omten 1217 worked well; just had to boost it up a little bit, and potentially sand down the plastic o ring in the switch.

ggf31416
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 55 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2016 - 17:38
Posts: 699
Location: Uruguay

What is the disadvantage of a forward switch versus a reverse clicky? I really don’t know.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

With a forward clicky, you change modes from off, so if your light is on the “low” memory, you have to half-press on and off a few times to get to high. Reverse clicky, the light goes on, then you half-press a few times to change modes up to high. So no bursts of light to do that.

Serlite
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2018 - 16:14
Posts: 447

Just in case anyone was looking for a solder-free way to change a reverse-clicky switch for the original forward-clicky S11, FastTech is currently selling a switch similar to the Omten mentioned earlier, but pre-soldered to a tailswitch PCB of nearly the right diameter (20.5mm instead of the 22mm): https://www.fasttech.com/p/4390600

I got mine a couple days ago and tried it out – all you have to do is glue a little cylinder of plastic/rubber to the top of the switch, about 3mm in height, and it perfectly replaces the original forward-clicky switch.

Turbo probably isn’t as bright because the spring isn’t pre-bypassed, but that’s a trade-off for convenience I guess.

oweban
oweban's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 days ago
Joined: 02/12/2019 - 06:34
Posts: 1263
Location: Sydney AU

Hey, thanks for the update – I hacked mine together and haven’t been hugely happy with it, but it’s good to know there’s a mostly ready-to-go option.