Order with battery, assuming the battery arrived with partial charge. Will try another battery when I get home.
Removed tape from negative side of battery and reinserted.
When screwing on the head the light blinks twice, after first blink there is about a full rotation and it blinks again. At this point it is fully closed with no gap.
Retaining ring seems to be in place, will not budge with pliers either direction.
Tail cap is screwed tight no gap. Button click feels good.
Symptoms:
Light doesnât turn on.
Click tail button does nothing.
Hold tail button for 3 or more seconds, light blinks upon release.
Havenât seen these symptoms posted yet. Any ideas? Besides verify battery.
The only other thing âIâ can think of isâŚ. take off the head & look at the end of the black inner tube. It should be clean & shiny with no anodization. Give that end a good wipe with a rag, put the head back on & try it.
RFI? Set an AM radio to the noise between stations and walk around your house listening for noise sources, many LED and CFL light bulbs are great producers of Radio Frequency Interference. You may have a âbuzzâ signal from something nearby. And you may also pick up a burst of electronic noise when a flashlight driver operates, if itâs not well designed to avoid creating RFI.
Electronic waves are simiar to ocean waves in that several waves can combine to create a ârogue waveâ or a strong electronic signal spike momentarily.
Iâve noticed fairly often that using a ham or GMRS/FRS âwalkie talkieâ radio triggers various motion sensor lights around the house, and I once had a neighborâs car alarm trigger just as I walked past it while using the radio.
Not surprised it didnât work. But allâs well that ends well. Youâve now got a super clean, checked out, & working FW3A out of the deal.
All for the price of charging the batteryâŚ. . :+1:
FWIW, the light should work until the battery gets down to 2.9V or so, because thatâs where LVP activates. It technically should still light up even as low as 2.6V, but itâll shut itself off pretty quickly to avoid hurting the battery.
Brightness gets lower and lower as the voltage drops, in a pattern which should almost exactly match the Vf curve of the emitters being used. Everything used in the FW3A should light up at least a little at 2.9V though.
Good point. Quite possibly the correct answer. Either the battery was not really at 3.2 V, it was much lower; or during the multiple takedowns he inadvertently âfixedâ whatever was not tight or lined up properly.
Maybe a combination of the battery and the 1x7135 channel chip being bad?
With a depleted battery the light should turn on in low. I assume if the battery is low enough only the 1x7135 channel is activating. If that 7135 chip is not functioning, perhaps you end up with a situation where the light stops working at slightly higher voltage than it should.
I received my FW3A yesterday. Fortunately everything seems to be working well. The UI took a bit of playing with to get figured out. It definitely has some awesome features (candlelight and lightning storm)
Mine does have one odd thing though. When in smooth ramp mode, starting at moonlight, it seems that it has more blinks than it should.
It blinks just above Moon, at Max Regulation, a bit before Max Ceiling and at Max Ceiling or Turbo. So 4 times, although just after Moon is very subtle.
If I have the Max Ceiling at 130 instead of 151 it will only blink once at the top of the ramp to signify Max Ceiling.
This doesnât bother me, and it might be normal. Just havenât seen it mentioned.
I know my D4 blinks only at Max Reg and at Turbo.