Cleaned threads, nothing to find. Driver seems seated however I canât budge the retaining ring. Certianly not loose.
Still same symptoms, not working.
Cleaned threads, nothing to find. Driver seems seated however I canât budge the retaining ring. Certianly not loose.
Still same symptoms, not working.
âŚâŚ Take the tailcap apart & see it there is a ânubbinâ in it.
If you need it, you can go HERE and find info on tailcap disassembly & ânubbinsâ. :+1:
The nub is there, tail switch feels like its working.
⌠WowâŚ.
The only other thing âIâ can think of isâŚ. take off the head & look at the end of the black inner tube. It should be clean & shiny with no anodization. Give that end a good wipe with a rag, put the head back on & try it.
Guess the low operating voltage of the FW3A is higher than the Emisar D4.
Battery that worked (emitted light) in the D4 didnât work in the FW3A.
The battery ordered with the flashlight (Sony VTC6) didnât come with enough of a charge.
Coincidentally the battery (LG HG2) that was working in the D4 was low enough not to work in the FW3A.
Charged batteries over night, all good now.
Only other batteries I had charged last night were protected cells which as stated donât work.
Thanks for the help.
You had not charged the battery??
For future reference⌠batteries do not come charged. They usually arrive around 3.4 V to 3.6V
When my fw3a was working it worked right up to when the lvp kicked in ,it should work with a cell at 3.2-3.4v.
When I put it on the charger it read 3.2 & didnât work.
RFI? Set an AM radio to the noise between stations and walk around your house listening for noise sources, many LED and CFL light bulbs are great producers of Radio Frequency Interference. You may have a âbuzzâ signal from something nearby. And you may also pick up a burst of electronic noise when a flashlight driver operates, if itâs not well designed to avoid creating RFI.
Electronic waves are simiar to ocean waves in that several waves can combine to create a ârogue waveâ or a strong electronic signal spike momentarily.
Iâve noticed fairly often that using a ham or GMRS/FRS âwalkie talkieâ radio triggers various motion sensor lights around the house, and I once had a neighborâs car alarm trigger just as I walked past it while using the radio.
Itâs not just me: ham radio motion sensor trigger - Google Search
https://www.reddit.com/r/amateurradio/comments/7qg9ta/motion_sensing_light_can_seerf/
It might be worth reviewing the FCCâs âshall not cause interference/shall not be overly sensitive to interferenceâ testing for the electronics.
Not surprised it didnât work. But allâs well that ends well. Youâve now got a super clean, checked out, & working FW3A out of the deal.
All for the price of charging the batteryâŚ. . :+1:
FWIW, the light should work until the battery gets down to 2.9V or so, because thatâs where LVP activates. It technically should still light up even as low as 2.6V, but itâll shut itself off pretty quickly to avoid hurting the battery.
Brightness gets lower and lower as the voltage drops, in a pattern which should almost exactly match the Vf curve of the emitters being used. Everything used in the FW3A should light up at least a little at 2.9V though.
Phaze13 said his would not work at 3.2 V, any idea why? Just curious⌠??
It wasnât the battery that was causing the problem probably.
Good point. Quite possibly the correct answer. Either the battery was not really at 3.2 V, it was much lower; or during the multiple takedowns he inadvertently âfixedâ whatever was not tight or lined up properly.
The inadvertent fix is my favorite fix.
âHow did you fix it?â
âI took it apart, put it back together, and it worked.â
âGreat!â
Maybe a combination of the battery and the 1x7135 channel chip being bad?
With a depleted battery the light should turn on in low. I assume if the battery is low enough only the 1x7135 channel is activating. If that 7135 chip is not functioning, perhaps you end up with a situation where the light stops working at slightly higher voltage than it should.
I agree, in some situationsâŚ. lucky trumps good. . :+1:
I received my FW3A yesterday. Fortunately everything seems to be working well. The UI took a bit of playing with to get figured out. It definitely has some awesome features (candlelight and lightning storm)
Mine does have one odd thing though. When in smooth ramp mode, starting at moonlight, it seems that it has more blinks than it should.
It blinks just above Moon, at Max Regulation, a bit before Max Ceiling and at Max Ceiling or Turbo. So 4 times, although just after Moon is very subtle.
If I have the Max Ceiling at 130 instead of 151 it will only blink once at the top of the ramp to signify Max Ceiling.
This doesnât bother me, and it might be normal. Just havenât seen it mentioned.
I know my D4 blinks only at Max Reg and at Turbo.
Finally received my two XP-Ls, and am sorely disappointed. One doesnât work at all, and the other is stuck on turbo from the second the threads make contact. Iâve tried swapping components between the two, tightening the tail first and then head, loosening and retightening the driver retaining rings.
Donât forget to try compressed air, to blow out any chips of metal left in delicate spots.