Here are more images: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
All mine are ground like the blade on the left.
The blade on the right does look somewhat deformed & a tiny bit smaller too.
teacher,
Got 2 of these after your glowing endorsement back in January (Thanks for that) and they took quite a while to show up, but anyway here are my observations;
Nice action, razor sharp, clip is not deep carry enough and has lousy profile
They cut skin (mainly my thumb) really fast and well.
This happened while measuring how much the liner lock has to move for the blade to dis-engage (Answer, Not Much:)
Worried about the very small area that gets covered by the liner lock, it is no where near 1/4 of blade width.
Compared to my trusty EDC Kershaw Cyro, it is half the coverage.
I like the knife, just don’t want an un expected trip to the hospital if this lock fails with that Barber’s clever of an edge slamming into the hand.
Hate the clip, I know you re-worked yours and I will need to do the same if I am to EDC this knife. Any pics of that procedure would be awesome as well.
Could you post some pics of the lock against the blade for comparison on your samples please?
Thanks!
Keith
Yep mine has minimal lock up as well and was just noticing this the other day too. Glad someone has finally mentioned it .
Ugh, this sucks. Thinking of canceling my order now since I already ordered Ganzo D2 anyway.
Personally, I think the lockup is just where it should be. I checked 5 of the ones I have left & they are all about the same. Just as I like them I might add.
Just about the whole face of the liner is securely seated on the angled blade heel. This gives a secure lockup & also allows for years of wear with continuing secure lockup as the face of the locking liner continues across the angled blade heel.
There is nothing “minimal” at all in the lockup of mine.
They are right where they should be for secure lockup now that will also continue through years of use.
As far as one closing on a hand…. I have never figured that out. How is that even gonna happen unless you are hammering on something with the spine of the blade?? 
Ever heard of a ‘slip joint’?? 
@ Muto…. Can’t do pics at the moment. Post a good pic of the lockup of yours & I’ll compare. 
Glad you like yours. For me there is zero concern about lockup on mine… for the reasons I mentioned above. That being the end of the lockbar is almost completely resting on the angled blade heel.
Opening & closeing it will help wear it in should there be any burs on either lockbar end or angled blade heel.
And as was mentioned all along & by you again…. as is, the clip sucks. It needs TLC to be useful. I’ll post pics when I am again able. But in the meantime, all you need to do is open it up to where it fits over your preferred pocket. Mine being Blue Jeans….
.
.
NOTE:
If anyone is afraid of their GoComma, PM me… I’ll buy them as long as you have not tried to “sharpened” them.
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edited for clarity
If it makes any difference, I have multiple Kershaws where the liner or frame lock is all over the place, meaning some engage far under the tang and some barely, USA and China made, so I’m not sure that’s a good benchmark to judge these. Have you tried a spine whack to see if it fails?
Note… these pictures are not mine, they are used as examples.
@ muto & whoever……
The two picture below are fairly representative of the ‘lockup’ my GoCommas have.
About 85% - 99% of the lockbar fully engages the angled heel of the blade on the 5 of mine I checked. IIRC Chris Reeve considers 80% fully acceptable. Good enough for him... good enough for me.
This is referred to as ‘early lockup’ and is GREATLY preferred by me. ymmv
NOTE: Do not be concerned with the thickness of the blade & thickness of lockbar. Be concerned with what percentage of the lockbar engages the blade.
NOTE 2: Of course if you have a knife with a super thin lockbar… it should go without saying THAT IS NOT GOOD. . 
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The two pictures below are examples of ‘late lockup’. You will notice the lockbar touches or almost touches the opposite side liner. To me this is in no way desirable & a total deal breaker. This condition is where you will begin to get up & down blade play.
.
The modern linerock was pioneered & patented by Michael Walker in the 1980’s & 90’s.
If anyone is afraid their lock will fail…. they should Test It.
Spine Whack Test
- Hold the knife in a manner that ’if’ the lock fails you will not get cut. Give the spine of the blade several good whacks on your knee, a table top, a heavy piece of wood, something substantial.
See for yourself if it fails. No use wondering or speculating…
EDIT: . Just did ‘Spine Whack Test’ on the 5 I mentioned above. All 5 passed with flying colors… solid as a rock. 
Not surprised at all…. …
I hear what your saying Blackbeard… Inconsistency. I’ve seen that too sometimes among brands.
One thing I have seen in these 20 Go Commas I got, bought at different times; is consistency.
They are extremely consistent. From the great knife with a fantastic fit n’ finish right down to the crappy clip…… they are consistent. . :+1:
The five I mentioned above all passed the Spine Whack… which did not surprise me at all.
Thanks for the testing teacher, I still havent got one yet, trying to figure out this dumb new paypal policy, not letting me pay with my balance without some new sign up thing leaving me annoyed, so maybe get one after I figure it out, but too lazy, not sure what shenanigans they are up to.
My pleasure Blackbeard. … Just FYI… I whacked the crap out of them too.
I have zero concern of improper lockup on any of mine.
Good luck figuring out PayPal, you’ll probably need it. . I just use mine to pay for stuff so I thankfully avoided the “pay with a balance & keeping a balance in account stuff”.
Take care…
Happened to me, too. Demanded personal info I really didn’t want to give.
Solution: get the debit card. Give the address to be where you work, mum’s house, whatever, where they’ll mail it. Give a bogus SIN (asked only last 4 digits?, forgot). You’ll still get it.
Then you’ll have, say, 35bux on the card when they mail it to you. Use it wherever as a regular CC (up to the balance), or just do a buy from FT, GB, whatever.
If you “pay by debit card” you’ll only be able to spend up to that balance but not a penny more. I had to “top off” one time (was on AX, no PP option, just CC/DC), and they do that in 10buk increments, which I didn’t like (only needed like 1buk to make the buy).
But if you buy from GB/FT and “pay by paypal”, you’ll have the option to “use balance?” and it’ll burn through that first, and then charge only the “excess” to your linked card. New balance on the card will be 0.00 once used up.
At that point, you can use the DC or not as you see fit. Toss a few bux on it to pay for lunch, etc., vs using a CC/DC of your own. This way, you’ll know how much you’ll have available on it as a maximum, and even if lost, no one’ll be able to keep soaking your linked card as long as you have that option turned off.
Ain’t too bad. All that bogus info on that DC, and no one “caught” me yet. :laughing:
Teacher and all,
Here are the pics , after the pic of the knife closed the next ones are knife #2.
Please understand I am not a knife guy per se, Have maybe 15 but really like this knife and don’t want to give wrong impression that is not a wonderful knife because I believe it to be.
I got clamped by lock failure when I was like 13 by trying to carve name in a tree and was pushing hard trying to dot an “I” and it closed on my fingers, was lucky did not sever ligaments so that is why I am paranoid of good locking mechanisms.
Thanks!
Keith
Now you know why I never ever ever push/pull/crank/twist/anything on a folder. Just got a coupla more cheep fixed-blade knives for s&g, and for when I might have to do something like that.
I never had a folder unexpectedly close on me, but my old Buck(ish) lockback had a sort of hair-trigger. One wrong “lean” trying to push “backwards” (ie, not into the cutting-edge but against the spine) and yeah, it could’ve easily collapsed shut and tried taking off a coupla fingers in the process. Noooooo thanks.
That lockup doesn’t look ideal, I have a Kershaw Leek that’s similar, but it’s a frame lock and probably sturdier, and you do put pressure on it since it’s on the outside when you grip….that one does look a bit iffy tho…maybe try those spine whacks tests with some thick work gloves on, or keep it for light duty stuff like mail and package opening if you feel it may fail, the width of the lockbar that engages the tang is quite wide for a liner lock, kinda weird, looks more like a frame lock.
Thanks for the info lightbringer, right now I’ll just be withdrawing my balance and if I use paypal it will just go through the bank. I’m guessing they weren’t making enough money the old way(seriously?) so they scrapped it
@ Muto & others
Those are great pics my friend.
Those two do lockup a bit ’earlier’ than mine.
There is something else that looks slightly different to… but I can’t put my finger on what it is. :person_facepalming:
I've loaned my camera to a buddy but I am gonna get it back & take some closeups that match yours & see if I can tell if their is a slight difference or I'm crazy. … The safe bet is on crazy.
Personally, I would have no concern over using either of those.
’But’…. that being said, I only cut with my knives. I do not use them as a pry bar, screwdriver, hammer, or chisel…… I cut with them.
I might take a bit more liberty with a fixed blade if need be…. but not much. Unless it is an ESEE 5 or 6 of course……
I think with a bit of opening & closing your two will wear in & be just right.
However…. If you want to be rid of them I will be glad to buy them.
I can understand your pause after reading your story about “dotting the i ”… 
. :person_facepalming:
Glad that was not worse than it was… 
I only found 2 knives in my stash that have a similar interior liner lock that looks like a frame lock(I’m referencing the 3rd pic on page one of this thread, and the cutout in the liner lock that is opposite the middle scale screw), a Gerber and a Kershaw Link, but all the liner locks are much thinner, this Gocomma is the thickest interior liner lock, is it a heavy knife?
Just mentioning this for Muto, looks like it would be hard to make that lock fail with that thick gauge.
Your talking about this one Blackbeard??
There’s this one with a 7.7cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:
https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009152095568.html
Your right… the lockbar is very thick & robust, just as you describe. :+1:
The knife below is the same way… robust lockbar.
Infact, upon comparing; the lock bar on both of these is much more heavy duty than the Ganzo FH-11 I have
And finally this one with a 8.9cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:
https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009780560071.html
FI…. the above knife is a great one too. . :+1:
Edit… I forgot to answer your question about “heavy” Blackbeard. I don’t consider either one overly heavy. They just have a good solid feel, if that makes any sense to you.
The one pictured above has a more solid feel to me than the FH-11. And… “it will cut” … as well as hold an edge.
Speaking of locking mechanisms, here is a pic of the lock on my FH21. Being new to folding knives and this being my first one, I don’t really know if it’s good or not, but there seems to be a good amount of overlap.
