No…. that would screw up the geometry & make it much more likely to fail. Do not bend. 
Muto's knife doesn't look all that hot, but I don't know if it's dangerous.
I wouldn't want a knife like that, and I think that teacher offering to buy it is actually a good thing for anyone that has a Gocomma knife like that. 
The heel of that blade is Tapered left to right also.
So any wear will be taken up as long as contact face of lock bar is even. (98%) of any wear in either anyway.
LB.
I always reckoned that ANY work requiring more than a 3 1\2 ish blade.IS safer with a “properly” designed. mfg’d, with decent steel, fixed blade.
Anything from a decent 440C up is fine.
My Martiini has done that in several country’s for near 45 yrs.
UP to the size of Buff’s.
Any work over 5inches’ish.
Well I reckon my hands and arms are safer behind a decent axe or chainsaw.
“Your” hands grip is only so good for controlling the safe usage of 5inches’ish max, when it sticking out the front.
and always buy a 6 inch curved blade. “meatworks” boner for jointing meat, (cheap as)
your hands are soooo much safer.
I did several seasons in a small meatworks. Boning. for the skill acquisitions. (They did teach you in those days. ’70/80’s).
That’ll teach you how to hold. use and not slice your fingers off.
Plus sharpen and remove the working burr, by hand.
Properly.
Also. With an axe. you can use a double handed grip for timber etc.
ALL knives…. Are only as good as YOUR grip and control on the handle. No matter it’s size, or yours.
Past that point. It can, and does. Bite you.
Have fun hey.
and I’m still waiting for that C8+ with decent single pill,
with 26650 cell and side sw.
That’ll be my last light I think. 2 off.
With payments. I’ve only ever paid through Paypal for last 7 or 8 yrs. and never kept any cash in account.
Only ever pay per item, through money linked to Paypal through a debit card.
With an account for such. Through a completely different bank to my actual money holding bank…
Teacher.
Sharpening. “Properly” will only improve your working edge.
That standard edge the Chinese blades come with is a “pocket knife” working edge. Fine for cutting fruit and cardboard.
I always improve mine by tapering edge from almost “0” angle at tip to that 30% at around the half of blade back.
My blades will cut your finger skin through.
Just leaning a bit on the blade against your skin.
No sliding back and forth. Just press.
With the extra body for working in edge further back
and deeper up in blade.
Old meatworkers trick,
slice and cut. Flesh and tough ligaments/tendons.
@ Macka17
I agree mate. 
I just want to be the one doing the “sharpening” or “reprofiling”.
Sounds like you have found a good method for achieving what you want in a good sharp blade. 
No need to be “sorry” Boaz… if that is your opinion. I totally disagree with it however.
My offer to buy was in no way meant to “sound impressive”, it was two fold. The first part being I could possibly pick up a few more of these & not have to wait for slow shipping from China.
The second part being if someone was truly unhappy with their knife it gave them an easy way out.
That is not a “fallacious argument” at all. I know they are good knives, and I have stated my reasons why I believe this; otherwise I would not have made the offer.
And also, for $10… these knives are an amazing value. Hard to believe actually.
fal·la·cious - 1.based on a mistaken belief:
So “fallacious” certainly does not apply… because my belief is not mistaken.
You do not trust them… fine with me. Your entitled to your beliefs too.
By the way, did yours pass the ’Spine Whack Test’?
Were you able to make them fail??
As far as your “Atomic Beam Flashlight” analogy… come on Boaz, we all know that is an overpriced rip off.
And G10 fiberglass, not plastic! 
Hmm, wonder why they’re called “scales”. Sounds kinda fishy to me…
In German they are called Schalen = shells (or peel, skin, even bowl). Sounds even more fishy 
It’s like with every technical terminology, not often logical to the noob but most likely the best possible or at least most catchy name for a thing.
No one is saying otherwise. 
Hey, everyone was ragging on the knife like it’s junk. Had to stick up for it…
/\…… Amen brother!!…… 
…… …
I never knew G10 was evidently so highly regarded for knife handles. I figured (matched) wood would be Le Chit, as the French say.
Yeah, it is… along with Micarta. But for sheer looks, wood is hard to beat.
I prefer early lock-up on my liners and frame-locks. Early lock up means it will last longer before the dreaded play kicks in. G10 is my preference in handle material, grippy and durable. My EDC is the ganzo fh11 in greenish blue. Love this knife.
I really liie that color Relampago!!
G10 is good, but I prefer metal handles.
I received this one today:
https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009153744948.html
First the good: It's big, it has a nice clip, and it's an assisted-opener!
Then the bad: The handle is plastic, and it feels cheap.
The knife is very thick, and the rope that comes with it serves no purpose except to get in the way.
Overall: This Gocomma isn't nearly as nice as the one with the 7.7cm D2 blade.
What did you think it was going to be?
Teacher…v v v v v v.
“I agree mate. Thumbs Up
I just want to be the one doing the “sharpening” or “reprofiling”. Wink.
Sounds like you have found a good method for achieving what you want in a good sharp blade. Beer””
Yes mate. 60plus yrs of practice and lots of cuts.
Eventually. You get there.
That tapered angle I almost get right. is a trick from some of the old Meatworks boners I worked with.
If you have a “folding” knife of any style.
It’s capable of coming back on your fingers.
Treat them as such, a folder. NOT a lock back and you’ll never have a problem.
They ALL only Finger nail cleaners and fruit peeler/slicers
anyway.
Serious work. Use sense and get out that FIXED blade you have.
You’ll keep your fingers longer that way. anyway.
Have fun.