26650 Batteries

KingKong ICR26650E XSL discharge test:

1A down to 2.8V:

4358mAh

3A down to 2.8V:

4240mAh

5A down to 2.8V:

4139mAh

It looks like it only discharged down to 3 V, but the cutoff value was set to 2.8V. This is caused by the fast dropping voltage from 3V to 2.8V.

There looking good.

No arguments there. I just felt compelled to remind people here, especially those accepting/dispensing advice about dead shorting batteries to see how much load they can handle, about how dangerous even the safe chem cells are, let alone LiCo chem cells. [/End PSA]

Thanks, N.Shock. Discharge test noted in OP.

SOLID!! thanks for doing that.

I am leaning towards the 3600 powerizer cells.

Heard back from Ric at CN Quality Goods - updated OP to change description for King Kong 4000mAh cells.

I have one question: in 1 post we have information about cells 4sevens are ".. non protected"
Here my old (blue) and new (green) cells:

And now - on label is visible "with PCB", as well visible under isolation the belts of flat wire.
Doesn't this mark that however these cells are "Protected" ?

They 100% are protected, I have the green-wrapper one and I had overdischarge protection kick in few times on it.

Good catch, kris2 and Shadowww - 4sevens 26650 cells are now listed under the Protected section in the OP. Funny that 4 Sevens doesn't note this in their product description.

Edit: I contact 4sevens and they have updated the product description to note it is a protected-cell battery.

Just a little update... I placed an order for 3x Battery space 3600 LiNiCoMn cells this weekend.

I'm only pushing them at ~1.38C in my ultrafire HD2010, so it should be a cake walk for these cells and I'm well within their capable range. I think I'm sticking with the 1x26650 setups, thats about as big as I can comfortably carry. No knock against BIG lights, I'm just not getting any younger, so weight and space are something I need to consider on the trails. They're At $9.50 from a reputable USA source it seems like a safe bet.

I think that's a smart choice, kramer. Please post impressions when you have a chance to test them out.

Sure... I can't do any detailed analysis, just tail cap current measurement comparisons and a 1A discharge capacity test with my hobby charger.

I just went to purchase some of them too, until I found out they want $9.95 for shipping.............yea I can't justify that shipping cost.

Yeah, you can't beat the free shipping from many of the other www retailers. So thats a major bummer. Battery space is about 35 minutes from my home, and still it was $7.50 for S&H... and I chose the cheapest shipping method via USPS (!!) I would just drive there to buy them in store if I didn't have to pay $6 bridge toll to cross over the SF bay.

sigh... anyways, I'll post an update to this thread when I get them and cycle them a couple times.

So, I am getting a Shadow JM07 Pro from a member here. I will probably be modifying the driver or have it modified to hopefully drive the XM-L at ~3.5A. I am wondering what people have found to be a good 26650, the Manafont Protected TrustFire sounds good with it giving >4000 mAh, and a good price. What I am wondering is if I really need a protected cell or if a King Kong or other would work fine since the JM07 also has undervoltage protection. I would also be using an Xtar WPII Mk2 to charge it so I have a good charger for it. Other thought is the 4sevens 26650 since it is protected and from a reputable source it should be of good quality. Any other suggestions, advice and help is appreciated.

Try Lighthound. Not much, but if you are also a CPF member, 2% off. 4 sevens is a quality cell, just overpriced.

If it helps, I have a JM07 and use the King Kong and WP2 II charger. I think it's fine as it has current regulation, low voltage warning and stepdown plus reverse polarity protection.

Personally I prefer unprotected cells in single cell lights. I have had more problems with protection circuits than they are worth. Like dropping them and fracturing the PCBA, pressing against them too hard and messing them up in some ill-fated DIY builds or discharging them only to have them not bounce back. I also dont really like how the circuit board presents a sharp edge / corner to the shrink-wrap. I have always found this to be a weak point that can easily tear.

I just make sure I dont over-discharge the cells, and I pack carry enough backups so I dont ever feel the need to deep cycle the unprotected cell.

IMHO of course...

I think you have to evaluate the kind of user you are. If you just want to run the light till' it dims and not worry about it, then definitely you will benefit from a protected cell. Also, my understanding is that the protection circuit is only designed to be a last resort fail-safe. They are NOT designed to repeatedly deep-cycle and trip the circuit.

Here is the "official" site for Keygos 26650:

http://www.keygos.com/product_info.php?products_id=938

I'd really love to see some tests of those. I know people here on BLF reported they are as good as KK. Some graph/numbers about these would really be nice to see.

Viktor

Thanks for finding that link, Viktor. I'll refer you back to post# 55: Keygos lists this as IMR, yet describes it as Li-ion. IMR usually denotes Lithium-Manganese. By all accounts there are no Lithium-Manganese or LiMnNiCo batteries available with capacity over 4000mAh, so I still question the honesty of their claims, but that could be said of Trustfires sold by most vendors. In addition, they claim to have protection circuit, usually not a feature of IMR batteries. I will include them in the Protected section of the OP, with my usual denoting 'exaggerated' capacity.

Dave

There is definitely plenty of false advertising about these, but if they were regular Li-Ions with 4000mAh (measured) they would be the cheapest decent 26650 Li-Ions available at the moment.

What this forum is about, innit? :)