And that’s what ‘medium’ output is for: reasonable output for a long duration.
‘High’ is for bright but wincingly inefficient operation, when you need a lot of light for a while, but you’re quick about it because you know the battery won’t last terribly long.
‘Turbo’ is for those 10 or 20 seconds where you need a photon cannon, battery drain be damned.
It’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, even if it comes set conservatively by default and you need to fiddle with Anduril’s settings to unlock it.
I think I’d use thermal regulation for turbo with 14500 operation (because the cell can handle the current output, probably), and timer based regulation for NiMHs (because the cell can’t handle the current for long at all).
I just got one of the SP10S (non Anduril version) and so far I like it but I am used to LH351D’s in both 4000k and 5000k. The only thing I don’t care for is “Eco” is significantly brighter in this version than the SP10B
first thing I noticed was that the cooling fins are really sharp :-s
This makes it feel really cheap :’(
The button is a lot more rounded off at the edges.
I don’t mind this, but I like the old button more.
The LH351D on the SP10s has a much nicer tint to the SP10 2.0
The low mode on the SP10s seems to be a little lower than the 2.0
The LED is a good update, just wish the finish was tha same
The sp10s has the same ui as the 2.0.
It is very simple and i like it as a edc light.
I have never used the original sp10/ui so cant compare.
i can say for sure that if there comes an anduril version,
that it wil replace my Fw3a as a sumer time edc
Hence, the reason I've ended up here in the first place, I was just looking up reviews for the SP10S as I've just noticed it on Ali not long ago and with the new GT Micro from Lumintop, I was wondering if it would be possible to retrofit the GT Micro Narsil driver into the Sofirn SP10A (a nice host with a side switch - Initially I was thinking about fitting the Micro's driver in the Tool AA, but.. that host has no side switch, so.. bumer.. )
So, would I take an SP10S with a driver running Anduril natively ? Hell yeah! Even better than Narsil.
With that said and whatever I know about the SP10, whichever version, I'd like to see the following changes/additions:
- Glow in the dark O-ring on the glass lens water seal - (Lumintop AA)
- Copper MCPCB for the emitter (a Luxeon V if possible ? )
- Switch indicator light - (as previeusly mentioned, just like on the SP32A V2.0)
- PCB for the tail cap spring (with friction ring soldered where the body will touch the outer PCB edge) - thus not relying on the anodizing to break connection / "physically lock" the light
- Dual spring (springs on both the driver and the tail cap alike) - thus, electronic reverse polarity protection instead of mechanical
