WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

and here is a replacement reflector for the Original RRT-01

following info courtesy of Coppet:
a replacement lens that also fits 2019 RRT-01

and a black clip option that also fits 2019 RRT-01

Lol 138 bucks for an outdated product

Sounds better when you convert to USD. Don’t you feel sorry for us Aussies :cry:

Oh, those are AUD ? sorry I didn’t see it :person_facepalming:
ANyway, that’s still more or less the price for the 2019 version :weary:

But most of us do prefer the old model.

I like the looks of the new model, the old model looks somewhat boring (except the Ti model, but then: the new model in Ti would look even better :smiley: )

I find the new model to bulky for EDC and almost double the weight.

I agree :slight_smile:

Yeah I agree with what you said about aesthetic…
That said, I got the 2019 for a review, so basically for free (is free time that free ?) so I’m not considering paying for an older model :innocent:

I totally impulse bought these without reading “original” RRT01. Any chance you ran across some drop ins for the new model?

I never tried any in the new model. The reflector in it seemed decent. Its possible this same reflector may drop in the new model. I measured it at 18mm earlier in this thread.

unmodified optic
legs wont fit into the Original RRT-01

trimmed leg sides on non-carclo triple optic for RRT-01
the non-carclo brand narrow clear optic sold by kaidomain is modified to fit without any glass lens over the optic, because the optic has a smooth face

when using a carclo 10507 besides trimming the sides of the legs as pictured, it is necessary to install a glass lens over the optic, to cover the holes on the non smooth face of the carclo narrow clear optic.

Just how hard is it to open the head? I haven't tried real persuasion yet (my strap wrench must hate me by now) but I haven't budged it either.

I've got an original RRT-01, which I much prefer the aesthetics of.

Lots of tape and vice grips an finally a pipe wrench for me :frowning: Turned out OK though

Soft wood jaws in my vise, and a leather belt plus big pliers

Thanks for the responses. I'll add this one to my list for whenever I next have time

Interesting, it seems that the external part of the 3 reflectors was also trimmed :

I agree, it does look that way when I look at the optic with a loupe.
also visible here:

the report from Firelight2 does not mention it, but the pictured modification is by pinkpanda… I will invite his comments

fwiw, the triple in this post is not a carclo optic, and that is an Eye10, not the RRT-01 Wave of triples that panda just finished in the last week or so

I did NOT have to trim or file down any part of the actual optic other than filing down the sides of the legs to fit it in my RRT-01. The edge of the optic rests against the edge of the head with a couple mm sticking out. But it’s ok because the optic is fully seated in position in the star, and the bezel goes on just fine.

From looking at the picture in the previous post where the edges of the optics were filed down I think that was probably a mistake. From that picture it appears the filed down portion is actually narrower than the edges of the bezel, which means less light will go out the front.

I’m not using a glass lens over the optic. Instead I have the front of the optic exposed. In my experience, optical acrylic is quite tough and doesn’t scratch easily. I’ve also never had problems with lint or debris getting into the holes in the 10507 optic (the holes do not go all the way through).

IMPORTANT NOTE WHEN UNSCREWING THE BEZEL:

  • When you unscrew the bezel to swap emitters make sure to grip the head ABOVE THE RING. Do NOT grip it around the ring or below the ring.
  • The head is composed of 2 main sections that are screwed together behind the ring and hold the ring in position. The upper section has the shelf for the star. The lower section has the socket for the driver. When you remove the bezel to change the emitters you do not want the 2 main sections of head to come apart.
  • If you grip around the ring or around the bottom of the head there is a chance that the 2 sections will unscrew rather than the bezel unscrewing. If this happens while the driver is installed, you will end up twisting and probably breaking the driver wires.
  • the driver is a 2-board sandwich type with the driver wires soldered to contacts in the middle of the sandwich. If you accidentally break the wires you will have to disassemble the sandwich in order to replace the wires.

I have done 3 now, all 3 came apart easy enough with just several wraps of painters tape and two pairs of large vise grips.
First break free the bezel, unsolder the wires to the MCPCB and remove it, remove the retaining ring screw from the battery + side of the head, then the retaining ring, pushing on the wires slightly should get the driver coming out then pull the driver out, Now your ready to break free the 2 piece head and control ring if you wanna add more lube. Be careful with the tiny ball bearing and spring, there easily lost. If your just doing a emitter swap removing the bezel is all that’s needed. If you wanna do a resistor mod and emitter swap the driver and bezel must be removed. There’s no need to break the two piece head down unless you wanna add lube.
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When I made one RRT01 into a triple using KD’s triple optic. I wanted the glass to be retained. It required more work to get the optic to set down flush with the top of the head like the original reflector does. I had to make the spacer just the right height to work with the optic and MCPCB installed to end up flush with the top of the head.
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I also had to trim the optic legs and some of the TIR to fit. I also shaved a couple of thousandths off the inside of the head to make a little more room leaving about .035” for barrel thickness. May have not been necessary but allowed less shaving of the reflector I figured.
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I went with 3 Nichia 219b sw45k leds.
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