Yeah, do a 23-click to restore the previous configuration. :person_facepalming:
guys ,who can do me a favor?
i want to know the correct diameter of sofirn soshine LISHEN vapcell 21700
I originally planned to buy these batteries directly in China. What I am depressed is that these Chinese-made batteries are not available in China or very expensive.Really awkward :person_facepalming:
soshine imr21700 4000mAh
w: 21.5mm
h: 71.0mm
On a side note: Sofirn's new SD05 diving flashlight has an inner diameter of 21.9mm, so it might accept even too big cells like Molicel M50A and Lishen LR2170SC.
Mocarny: Mike C:Double press on a clicky for previous mode? Interesting, I’ve actually never heard of that before.
Personally I can’t see that as being superior to long press for previous mode
With double press you can’t go wrong, double press is always previous mode, single is always next. With this long/short press you can press a bit too long, or too short and have wrong mode. You would love it
I have done some rather extensive testing with double press, but for boost mode, not previous mode. It was brought to my attention in a thread I made asking for these kind of things: Driver giveaway: Constant current 17mm drivers, winners (finally) announced, post #2. (double tap discussion started at post #123).
So I have to disagree a little. I noticed with double press on a clicky that you can go wrong. There is a timing issue that must be dealt with, and that is you have to have a time difference between double press and two single presses. If I want to go up two modes I need to do two single presses. If I do them too fast they are interpreted as a double press. Too me this timing distinction faces the exact same issues as short press vs long press. I implemented it and settled on 200ms time limit for double press.
Believe me, I have tested this stuff a lot. I don’t get short press vs long press wrong. If the time limits are set fine, and you have hardware to support exact timing (like OTSM), messing up short press and long press is as difficult for me as it is for you to mess up double press vs two single presses. With that said, I now have support for double press so I’ll have a look at making a UI that uses it for previous mode. I have the space for it.
Ryzbor:It’s this super-customisable UI: Sterownik driver LED 4,2/2,8A programowalny extended v3.5 HE - www.swiatelka.pl
Also the one Mocarny is talking about. The google chrome translation is very good.Interesting, thanks for posting. I’ll have a closer look at that, might give me some suggestions.
Anyhow, this is a Convoy thread, I should stop hijacking it.
So what can I say? Just that for me, after week or two I had learned timing perfectly and made no mistakes.
Ps. Double press and all that stuff works much better on tail switch than on side switch
And just to correct, the UI Ryzbor’s posted is not my… “Legendary UI” Thin is it:
http://www.solarforce.eu/proghe.html
Lot easier and less complicated, just what you need, perfectly balanced between complexity and simplicity. And about 23-click…you will never us it, or maybe once, more important is ability to have 2 separated mode groups.
Ok, that’s all
Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Satan@103TFS:Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Will it fit in new versions of L21A XHP 35 HI or 3*21700?
Satan@103TFS:Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Simon why don’t you make the body of your 21700 a little bit bigger may be
0.5-0.8 mm. to give us more choices of battery ?
And anyone tried to unwrap the Lii 40A out of this yellow plastic foil? Will it fit then?
Simon Mao: Satan@103TFS:Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Will it fit in new versions of L21A XHP 35 HI or 3*21700?
currently not
i have to improve this in the next batch
Simon Mao: Satan@103TFS:Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Simon why don’t you make the body of your 21700 a little bit bigger may be
0.5-0.8 mm. to give us more choices of battery ?
cause at first there are only LG SAMSUNG TESLA or SONY 21700 in China ,
i dont know other brands have a little large diameter ,sorry
Simon,
I am sure you are pretty busy but I wanted to know if
you were able to fix the driver?
maukka:Simon, I just received two C8+ with 219C 4000K from you. Please fix the driver on them. Toykeeper will explain what’s wrong.
Maukka measured the PWM speed on each mode:
- 2.25 kHz moon
- 17.9 kHz low
- 36 kHz all other modes
The 36 kHz speed means the driver was flashed with the wrong fuse values.
The 2.25 kHz moon means the driver has a very old version of the firmware on it, from 2016, calibrated for nanjg 105d drivers which were never actually used. This was fixed two years ago, along with some other issues.
If at all possible, I would strongly recommend updating to a newer type of driver, perhaps one with two power channels and an attiny25v or attiny85v chip. This would improve performance and allow for a nicer UI. If not though, it would be a good idea to at least update the firmware on the existing drivers.
Satan@103TFS: Simon Mao: Satan@103TFS:Any one try Lii-40A in 21700 convoy light ,is it fit ?
not suitable
Simon why don’t you make the body of your 21700 a little bit bigger may be 0.5-0.8 mm. to give us more choices of battery ?
cause at first there are only LG SAMSUNG TESLA or SONY 21700 in China , i dont know other brands have a little large diameter ,sorry
No worries Simon. It's not your fault but the "others" do not follow the 21700 standard size. Actually, Lishen and Molicel only achieve better specs by increasing cell diameter (21.6 - 21.7mm). However, a minor increase of the tube's inner diameter might be a nice option for future batches.
The diameter of the (2) Molicel P42A 21700 batteries from Li-ion warehouse wasn’t that large. Granted the spec sheet does say 21.7mm Max.
So for those us with existing drivers that include the bad values in the firmware, it’s just a matter of flashing the latest build from the code repo yes? Or would this require tweaking the fuse values prior to this?
Hi Simon,
Any plans to bring out colored versions of the S21A?
To all others: are you interested in this, and which color(s) do you like most?
My color preference (hi to low): Purple, Red, Green, Gold/Yellow, Blue, Silver, Orange, Cyan.
With metal switch
Concerning body colours:
Urban camo or olive green (natural anodization colour).
I prefer non-reflective rubber caps but metal caps might be a nice option for later modification.
Hi Simon,
Any plans to bring out colored versions of the S21A?
To all others: are you interested in this, and which color(s) do you like most?
My color preference (hi to low): Purple, Red, Green, Gold/Yellow, Blue, Silver, Orange, Cyan.
With metal switch
I would be interested, but I have a question.
I see the S2+ comes in colors, but it’s only a host. I’ve never taken a flashlight apart before. How easy is this to do to swap the parts into a new color? The LED and circuits scare me a bit. I don’t want to damage anything or break the waterproofing.
Also. Is a metal switch as waterproof as the rubber? What are the pros and cons?
Convoylover:Hi Simon,
Any plans to bring out colored versions of the S21A?
To all others: are you interested in this, and which color(s) do you like most?
My color preference (hi to low): Purple, Red, Green, Gold/Yellow, Blue, Silver, Orange, Cyan.
With metal switch
I would be interested, but I have a question.
I see the S2+ comes in colors, but it’s only a host. I’ve never taken a flashlight apart before. How easy is this to do to swap the parts into a new color? The LED and circuits scare me a bit. I don’t want to damage anything or break the waterproofing.
S2+ colored is also available as a complete flashlight. Look at Simon’s Convoy flashlight store. Plenty of options. So, if you’re hesitant to do it yourself…
Assembling a host is not difficult if you’re used to holding a soldering iron and know about blue=minus red=plusAlso. Is a metal switch as waterproof as the rubber? What are the pros and cons?
passive101: Convoylover:Hi Simon,
Any plans to bring out colored versions of the S21A?
To all others: are you interested in this, and which color(s) do you like most?
My color preference (hi to low): Purple, Red, Green, Gold/Yellow, Blue, Silver, Orange, Cyan.
With metal switch
I would be interested, but I have a question.
I see the S2+ comes in colors, but it’s only a host. I’ve never taken a flashlight apart before. How easy is this to do to swap the parts into a new color? The LED and circuits scare me a bit. I don’t want to damage anything or break the waterproofing.
Also. Is a metal switch as waterproof as the rubber? What are the pros and cons?
S2+ colored is also available as a complete flashlight. Look at Simon’s Convoy flashlight store. Plenty of options. So, if you’re hesitant to do it yourself…
Assembling a host is not difficult if you’re used to holding a soldering iron and know about blue=minus red=plus
Metal switch is maybe a bit less waterproof, I don’t know. It will stand a few drops of water as long as you stay above sea level :+1: