shirnask wrote:

Jason, I have both the S43 and the S43S, both have a solid contact in the head and dual springs in the tail – see below

BabyDoc wrote:

Why do my undented cells only work correctly when I find the sweet spot for tightening. Only if I tighten fully the light misbehaves. If I back off from fully tight, I can get it sometimes to work correctly.

Therefore, I am not following you when you say that the head and tail cap can’t be tighted down all the way. That might be true if the cell was way too long. But my cell can’t be way too long if just a small dent fixes things. Furthermore, as I just said, because it will work sometimes with an undented cell when head and tail are NOT tight.

So could my undented cell, sandwiched between the solid head contact and fully compressed spring in the tail, be placing undue pressure on the boards controlling the light when head and tail are fully tight? Otherwise, how would you explain that loosening the head or tail might get it to work correctly?

question-i want to change the nichias with quad xpl neutral…anyone tried it already? where in Europe we can buy in this size quad mcpbs with leds? ME is too far and too expensive,thanks.

You can swap the LED’s on the mcpcb and it will work just fine.

If you want to order an mcpcb with the LED’s already installed that could be a problem. The mcpcb is custom as far as I know.

okok…i would do it…but i check the fasttech…..where they are available.is this size ok?will it fit on the star and under the optic?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1609/10009336/3594907-cree-xp-l-hi-v2-...

That would be VERY hard to make work in this light. The stock mcpcb is all one piece with 4 LED’s mounted on it.

It would be far simpler to just reflow new LED’s onto it.

okok….iam looking for them on fasttech…dont see them?
just leds…

Yeah, I don’t think anyone sells the complete mcpcb as it is custom only for the S43.

yes…but solo leds without board…nw

Oh, you can try http://www.kaidomain.com/

study study.but not succesfull…how to got simply to the menu and get modes instead ramping please?
what do you recommend? turbo timer or turbo til death..?

vresto wrote:

study study.but not succesfull…how to got simply to the menu and get modes instead ramping please?
what do you recommend? turbo timer or turbo til death..?

First you have to hold down the button for 8 seconds. I recommend you ramp down when doing this.

You will see 2 fast and one slow blink. Release the button when when it first blinks. Then do 1 click after you see the 2 fast 1 slow. This means you’ll be clicking one time about a second after you release the button.

Then you can let it cycle through the rest of the menu. Once it stops blinking it is ready to use.

I don’t use the Turbo Timer, I set it using the temperature.

So I guess a S44 will be revealed soon. What features would people like in the S44 ?

Personally I would like:
- Better optics
- Better driver efficiency
- Better charging efficiency
- Better thermal throttling
- Flat bezel (not the crenulated type)
- Get rid of spike (helps to make it a little bit shorter)

I guess that aux LEDs are ‘all the rage’ lately so maybe it will feature these. Personally I don’t need them, they are groovy but not important.
I think it will be hard to beat Emisar D4v2

Something to use the spikey tail caps for:

shirnask wrote:

Something to use the spikey tail caps for:

Interesting. Did you craft your own or is this a screw-in magnetic stud you can buy somewhere?

I used 2 N50 8mmX3mm Neodymium Magnets which fit nicely in the hole for the spike (which I will never use anyway) and just glued them in. works well enough to be useful to me.

shirnask wrote:

I used 2 N50 8mmX3mm Neodymium Magnets which fit nicely in the hole for the spike (which I will never use anyway) and just glued them in. works well enough to be useful to me.

I have had these for a while and I am not sure where these came from. I have used several sizes for different projects around the house. I did a quick search and found these.
Banggood

Amazon

varbos wrote:

So I guess a S44 will be revealed soon. What features would people like in the S44?

varbos wrote:

Personally I would like:
- Better optics
- Better driver efficiency
- Better charging efficiency
- Better thermal throttling
- Flat bezel (not the crenulated type)
- Get rid of spike (helps to make it a little bit shorter)

I guess that aux LEDs are ‘all the rage’ lately so maybe it will feature these. Personally I don’t need them, they are groovy but not important.
I think it will be hard to beat Emisar D4v2

The driver efficiency is actually just as good as the D4 that people compare it to, they use the same design and components. The efficiency loss is the optics not the driver.

The charge rate can be adjusted with a resistor change, I had it setup to charge at 1A at first but since it was designed for 18350 cells it was worried that might be too fast for the small cells so it was dropped down to 500ma last min.

Thermal performance is about as good as you can expect for such a small light honestly. If the exact step down temp is the issue, the default could be raised in firmware I suppose but otherwise it is a simple matter of calibrating your light to your own personal preferences.

JasonWW wrote:

Really? I’ve heard nothing.

Quote:

What is wrong with charger efficiency? You want a higher charge rate?

Quote:

Thermal throttling seems fine once adjusted. You can’t expect the factory to adjust each light by hand.

I do not expect the factory to adjust each light by hand, however surely there are areas for improvement. Look at Emisar D4 for an example of this in practice. Many thought the thermal throttling was ‘fine’ and yet it improved several times. I am thankful Hank and TK did not say v1.0 was fine and call it a day.

shirnask wrote:

I used 2 N50 8mmX3mm Neodymium Magnets which fit nicely in the hole for the spike (which I will never use anyway) and just glued them in. works well enough to be useful to me.

For a minute there I thought he drove the spike Into the filing cabinet

xevious wrote:

shirnask wrote:

I used 2 N50 8mmX3mm Neodymium Magnets which fit nicely in the hole for the spike (which I will never use anyway) and just glued them in. works well enough to be useful to me.

Thanks. I don’t have my S43 with me right now, so I can’t measure it. Is the 8mm x 3mm where the magnet fits in that “dish” area around the screw hole and the 3mm height is flush to the rest of the tail cap? Also, what kind of glue did you use? I expect Super Glue wouldn’t be a good choice due to lateral vulnerability.

2 – 8mmX3mm

4 – 8mmX2mm

Not as much volume for the adhesive this way
which ever you use just load up magnets and adhesive – cover with a bit of wax paper and set some kind of ferrous metal on top to get the magnets to sit flush with the top of the cap

Texas_Ace wrote:

Out of curiosity, if the battery tube on the S43 was changed, would that be the only cosmetic issue most of you have with the light? I think it might be too late for the S43 to be changed but figure I could give it one last try. The tailcap striker is already removable, makes the tailcap a bit taller then needed but that is about it. The bezel is the only other real complaint I see here how big of a deal is it? it is not that aggressive and is not that bad. I got permission to post the prototype light I got, these are pictures from Mateminco, the ano looks a lot better on mine in real life then the picture look. I think it is pretty good looking in the real world, the picture do not do it justice. if I have time I might try to get one of mine. !{width:50%}http://pballandmore.com/images/2018/S43-1.jpg!:http://pballandmore.com/i... !{width:50%}http://pballandmore.com/images/2018/S43-2.jpg!:http://pballandmore.com/i... !{width:50%}http://pballandmore.com/images/2018/S43-3.jpg!:http://pballandmore.com/i... !{width:50%}http://pballandmore.com/images/2018/S43-4.jpg!:http://pballandmore.com/i... !{width:50%}http://pballandmore.com/images/2018/S43-5.jpg!:http://pballandmore.com/i... Thanks for information

Raymond Russell wrote:

Texas_Ace wrote:

Out of curiosity, if the battery tube on the S43 was changed, would that be the only cosmetic issue most of you have with the light? I think it might be too late for the S43 to be changed but figure I could give it one last try. The tailcap striker is already removable, makes the tailcap a bit taller then needed but that is about it. The bezel is the only other real complaint I see here how big of a deal is it? it is not that aggressive and is not that bad. I got permission to post the prototype light I got, these are pictures from Mateminco, the ano looks a lot better on mine in real life then the picture look. I think it is pretty good looking in the real world, the picture do not do it justice. if I have time I might try to get one of mine. Thanks for information

Are these pictures of a S44 prototype? If so they aren’t accessible to me. I never understood the complaints about the smooth battery tube, especially when people don’t complain about the same issue with the FW3A/C. As far as the Tailcap goes, I think the spike there is rather silly, especially with the S43S that comes with the 18350 tube. That small tube,with the crenulated bezel makes this light look like a little tactical wannabe. Does anyone really use the spike on this light? It’s then too sharp to keep in a pocket.

BabyDoc wrote:

Are these pictures of a S44 prototype?

Texas_Ace wrote:

joechina wrote:

If you wait a bit, I am sure someone will make an Andúril version.

If it is popular I am sure someone will at some point as well.

Has anyone managed to flash their S43 with Andúril yet?

This is how my S43S from BG came:
https://i.imgur.com/nLSMWd0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EM0Yq3V.jpg
There’s a blob of solder joining one pad to the outer ring of the driver board. And the other pad does not have any solder at all.

Here is how it is supposed to look:
https://i.imgur.com/t0fMppC.jpg

Can anybody explain what I am seeing? Bad workmanship? A returned light which had to be repaired?
It seems to work okay..

varbos wrote:

This is how my S43S from BG came:

There’s a blob of solder joining one pad to the outer ring of the driver board. And the other pad does not have any solder at all.

Here is how it is supposed to look:

Can anybody explain what I am seeing? Bad workmanship? A returned light which had to be repaired?
It seems to work okay..