From off, holding more than 5 seconds:
— ligh turns on
— light ramps up
— two short blinks, about a second apart, and no change in brightness
— after a few seconds, does 3 blinks three times, then dims slightly and settles down to steady brightness.
— Another button press-and-hold, and it gets briefly brighter, then ramps down.
I emailed Intl Outdoor and asked someone to take a look at the problem as described here.
There’s definitely something wrong with the hardware. It sounds like it might be a bad ground contact though. If ground is really weak somewhere, it would explain both the low brightness and the low-voltage warnings.
For that, I’d take the tailcap off, take the tube off, thoroughly clean both ends of the tube and the contact rings it touches on the head and tail, then screw it all back together extra-tight. And if that doesn’t help, it’s probably not fixable without a lot more work and possibly extra parts.
Something else which might be worth trying is to take off the tailcap and hold a piece of wire against the battery and the edge of the tube. Then check if the light can go brighter. If so, the problem is likely in the tailcap, like maybe the spring or PCB was damaged.
Bypassingthe tailcap didn’t help —- but as soon as I put the tailcap back on (which I’ve done several times previously today with cleaning) — lo, the turbo brightness has recovered. “What are you doing?!” I hear being asked from the next room ….
A bit flickery on turbo, and fairly quickly I got three blinks and stepdown.
From off, the double click for turbo gets me a bright flash, then off, then turbo brightness. Is that right?
Okay, it sounds like the light has difficulty with the ground connection… but otherwise is behaving normally.
It may still be a weak connection even at the brighter turbo though, if it’s giving a low-voltage warning. That shouldn’t happen until it has been on for quite a while, unless the battery is really weak or the ground contact is still very limited.
I don’t really know for sure, but it might help slightly if you can put a thin spacer ring between the driver and the front end of the battery tube. I’m not sure what would work best… a flattened wire, a very specific type of washer, maybe even foil cut into the right shape… but something like that might improve the connection. Or perhaps the issue is inside where you can’t reach it.
Hey all. I’m not sure if this has been mentioned, yet, but I am wondering what the throw and/or candela has been measured as for the SST-20 4000K version of the D4! Wondering how it will compare to my other D4s, in terms of throw, when it arrives. Cheers.
I just wish the same since pogo pin keys where discussed. I’m probably not the only one to be a bit lazy when you need to order different parts from different places. I don’t understand why flashlights manufacturer (Emisar, FireFlies, etc) are not selling those keys yet as a separate accessories which could be added to an order, like a pocket-clip or a battery. Please someone, make this happen !
I know, right?
OTOH, customs really seems to like packages with weird-looking sharp things inside. I’ve gotten two packages with pogo pin adapters, and both were opened by customs to figure out WTF the weird-looking thing inside was. So that might make things interesting for anyone who tries to sell such a thing.
They also seem to be somewhat difficult to make, since the soldering is very precise and involves both sides of the board.
Wait, so if I’ll ask hank for a D4 or D18 with the latest 06-06 Anduril firmware I’ll get it without muggle mode?
Mine has continued to behave properly (giving me turbo on 2-clicks) after a few days.
Thanks to all for the troubleshooting suggestions.
Now what if anything do I need to do, assuming it’s in stock condition as received —- do I need to do the thermal calibration?
If it’s behaving well, you shouldn’t need to change anything.
If it’s regulating down too early or too late for your taste, then you might want to do new thermal calibration. It’s a bit of a pain to fine-tune on the original D4 though, since it’s just “hold until hot” and the value it picks is subject to quite a bit of randomness… so it can take a few tries.
So if it’s behaving well enough, I’d probably just leave it as-is.
Yes
What was the original maximum for this? I cant remember if it was 100% on my Q8 or if I was tinkering with the code. I kinda like having full blast lightning mode.
FWIW, I think the D18 might actually still ship with muggle mode. That might change next time he makes a batch of drivers though.
About lightning mode, there was a bug where it could only go up to level 143/150. That’s fixed now, and it can go up to 150/150. The actual values are totally random though, so I doubt anyone would even notice a difference.
New revision? Gray came to me today. Ordered May 29. Gray has a mcpcb with 23mm diameter.
Mine is shipped on May 28 and it have the new head but the old mcpcb of 20mm.
Maybe the big mcpcb means a 21700 version?
The grey almost looks like theres a smaller mcpcb with thicker tube walls compared to the black on on the right. More thermal mass?
Edit: Just checked my tint mixed D4 shipped 5/27/19 and mine looks like Alex64’s.
Is the new D4 switch recessed more?
Nick779
It’s white (on the left) and gray (on the right). There is no black D4.
I believe I figured out I have the v2 software - that’s still the “original D4” though?
After the tailcap is loosened and tightened, one click gives a fairly bright output, then holding the button makes it ramp up to astoundingly bright.
In other news, still trying to unscrew the bezel without scraping off the green coating (which came off quite easily when/where I removed the pocket clip)
Mine is the same recess than the other D4 purchased 2 months ago, but the rubber switch has a bit dead zone than the other D4 doesn’t have.
Thanks.
LOL, that’s ridiculous, muggle mode is (imho) one of the most actually practical features of the Anduril UI and would be the only reason I would take it over Ramping IOSV2 in a D4. There is no sense removing it since it’s quit deeply hidden and accidental activation is impossible.