Okay, it sounds like the light has difficulty with the ground connection… but otherwise is behaving normally.
It may still be a weak connection even at the brighter turbo though, if it’s giving a low-voltage warning. That shouldn’t happen until it has been on for quite a while, unless the battery is really weak or the ground contact is still very limited.
I don’t really know for sure, but it might help slightly if you can put a thin spacer ring between the driver and the front end of the battery tube. I’m not sure what would work best… a flattened wire, a very specific type of washer, maybe even foil cut into the right shape… but something like that might improve the connection. Or perhaps the issue is inside where you can’t reach it.
Hey all. I’m not sure if this has been mentioned, yet, but I am wondering what the throw and/or candela has been measured as for the SST-20 4000K version of the D4! Wondering how it will compare to my other D4s, in terms of throw, when it arrives. Cheers.
I just wish the same since pogo pin keys where discussed. I’m probably not the only one to be a bit lazy when you need to order different parts from different places. I don’t understand why flashlights manufacturer (Emisar, FireFlies, etc) are not selling those keys yet as a separate accessories which could be added to an order, like a pocket-clip or a battery. Please someone, make this happen !
OTOH, customs really seems to like packages with weird-looking sharp things inside. I’ve gotten two packages with pogo pin adapters, and both were opened by customs to figure out WTF the weird-looking thing inside was. So that might make things interesting for anyone who tries to sell such a thing.
They also seem to be somewhat difficult to make, since the soldering is very precise and involves both sides of the board.
If it’s behaving well, you shouldn’t need to change anything.
If it’s regulating down too early or too late for your taste, then you might want to do new thermal calibration. It’s a bit of a pain to fine-tune on the original D4 though, since it’s just “hold until hot” and the value it picks is subject to quite a bit of randomness… so it can take a few tries.
So if it’s behaving well enough, I’d probably just leave it as-is.
What was the original maximum for this? I cant remember if it was 100% on my Q8 or if I was tinkering with the code. I kinda like having full blast lightning mode.
FWIW, I think the D18 might actually still ship with muggle mode. That might change next time he makes a batch of drivers though.
About lightning mode, there was a bug where it could only go up to level 143/150. That’s fixed now, and it can go up to 150/150. The actual values are totally random though, so I doubt anyone would even notice a difference.
I believe I figured out I have the v2 software - that’s still the “original D4” though?
After the tailcap is loosened and tightened, one click gives a fairly bright output, then holding the button makes it ramp up to astoundingly bright.
In other news, still trying to unscrew the bezel without scraping off the green coating (which came off quite easily when/where I removed the pocket clip)
LOL, that’s ridiculous, muggle mode is (imho) one of the most actually practical features of the Anduril UI and would be the only reason I would take it over Ramping IOSV2 in a D4. There is no sense removing it since it’s quit deeply hidden and accidental activation is impossible.
I agree, especially on these small lights. Right now I just use the stepped ramp for lower output, but its easy to figure out how to switch.
Personally I wish momentary was better hidden since it needs power disconnected to be disabled. Something impossible to do accidentally like 8 clicks vs sandwiching it between lockout and muggle.
So… I was a bit of an idiot and forgot to remove the cell when swapping the mcpcb. I managed to short the LED+ to the body for a fraction of second. Everything worked fine, but the regulated modes were much lower; moonlight was the brightness when doing a diode test with a multimeter. The 100% 7135 mode was about half as bright as it should be. FET modes are completely fine, as are all the blinkies & such.
Anyway, I’ve replaced the 7135 and I’ve still got the exact same problem. I was thinking it could be the attiny chip, but all the software features work. Any ideas?