That has been my observations when comparing the 1800K Cube to my 2000K E21A. The E21A looks positively like a regular incandescent lamp in comparison. I also have an SST-10 deep red, and my chromatic adaptation kicks into overdrive and even 2700K looks like midday “daylight”.
Could we get the tint closer to the BBL while keeping CCT low though? I see a surplus of light at 620nm, but that’s near red light. Maybe a minus red filter? I was thinking the usual Lee Minus Green. I’m guessing for the mix you used the 2200K/1800K Cubes?
According to the datasheet the Cube has a massive chromaticity shift when warmed up, the 1800K version starts like in the chart above but at 85 degC (operating temperature in light fixtures) it drops down right on top of the BBL.
So we need bad heatsinking, something for a P60 drop-in?
I did forget about this phenomenon, I do remember reading this in the datasheet. I did take these when the emitters were cool. Actually thinking about this, I can try again when they get warmer but the setup I am using is designed to make sure they do not get 85°C or even that warm to the touch.
Just ordered some 2700K XP-L HI’s from Mountain Electronics. I’ve used 3000 and 3500k before quite a bit but never a 2700. Probably not a drastic difference.
I really do want something 2200K and under. But I also did get some SST20 2700K from kaidomain! Going to give that a try and see how they turn out. Probably in an acebeam headlamp
You can go for the 2200K Cree XT-E or or the 2500K Osram Oslon SSL-180 for 3535 drop installed. They don’t have the best appearence though, 80 CRI only. My 2700K XP-L HI turned out to be closer to 3000K in the SMO Convoy C8.
I’ve ordered the FW3A copper, and will be sticking some 2700K SST-20’s in it, can’t wait.
nice! just ordered fw3a too and will put the sst20 2700K in it too. seems like that’s the lowest cct and highest CRI option we have for a 3535 footprint