Emisar D4v2 leaked

Yep.

Will be picking this one up quickly if it comes with a 3x7135+FET driver, or even better, the famous Anduril 1+7x7135+FET driver.

Sooo much want.

Anduril UI and AUX LEDS? Both upgrades I wanted but could not do myself on my D4. I’m getting one when they come out! :slight_smile:

The D4 is currently sold out on Intl-Outdoor. The D1S is also sold out. Surely this is just a coincidence, but I’m a bit giddy right now…

I don’t own a D4, but if it’s like the D1S (which I do own), Hank likes to keep things tightly packed (as shown below, source). A smaller spring would probably need to be something like one of Blue’s smaller BeCu springs or the tiny one from the Qlite drivers.

I heard someone who ordered a D4 recently got one with programming pads. If I had to guess that was probably the new driver meant for this light. If that’s the case you can probably rule out 3 channel FET.

photo from above thread:

That + a recessed button (to reduce pocket activations), and my planned FW3A order (which I’m holding on due to the glass screwup) become D4v2 orders instead.

The “recessed button” in the first post just looks like the current D4 button to me. Might be wise to wait for more info before getting your hopes up.

This looks like a good replacement for the FW3A I never got because it was lost in shipping… It’s going to be nice with the features from the D4S but slimmer and easier to fit in a pocket. A 21700 tube would be nice too if it can be made to work.

If it is not recessed that would suck.

However, I will still get it since I want the knurled body tube. I can and have made recessed buttons for my other D4s and could do that for the v2 if necessary.

Aside from the flatulent haha price of a double C-note, what does the V2 offer
That improves on the OG?

& who is gonna stock these gems, my FAS is growing.

The stock tube is thick on the D4 for a reason. It provides better heat sinking. To make a 21700 tube by boring out the 18.650 tube might work,but at the expense of heat handling. That’s not something I would want, especially with a higher capacity battery. It would mean the light would run hotter on high output, forcing you or the light to step brightness down. On the other hand, with a thick wall tube you can run the light on high longer, while gaining the longer run time advantage of the 21700 cell.

I’m not sure this is a bad thing. The tightly packed 7135s on the visible side of the FW3A driver leave them vulnerable to damage or shorts, force them to use a smaller spring, and don’t leave room for a programming header. There’s no obvious choice here.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/57210”: Official announcement (as if it needed one)

The text in the link is correct, but clicking on the link leads to an error page.

I fooled around with this for a few minutes and finally gave up. I clicked the link after your comment above and it worked, maybe you clicked while I was still fooling around. Never did figure out why I could not get it to format how I wanted, I’m guessing the ()`

EDIT: The only one that works is in Terry Oregon’s post, can’t figure this one out, over trying . . . . :person_facepalming:

This should work:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/57210

thanks guys, I was going to go back and edit, but no need now.

It’s because the symbols were included in the url

Not sure how to do code samples on this forum (the usual BB Code isn’t working), but the easiest way to avoid the problem is just to have a space on each side of a URL like this: KC1 keychain light is available now